I have not had to change one in about 4 years,but the last one I did was a major pia.
What worked best to get it out of that hole was to use a masonry bit on my drill at a low speed ,after getting as much out of the way first.
I think we are speaking of crankcase heater if so there are some different sizes I would get the new part then size it up length and width then use the correct drill bit slowly to remove debrie after cleaning it out reinstall new heater with anti-sieze for future replacement.
Arguing with your Boss is like wrestling with a pig in
After a while you realize that while you are getting
dirty, the pig is actually enjoying it.
It is not exactly cheating, I prefer to consider it
creative problem solving.
25 years ago we had Bob Hope , Steve Jobs , and Johnny Cash today we have no Hope no Jobs and no Cash !
I can fix broke but i can't fix stupid !
If you cant get it out you could always strap a watlow pad heater in the same area. That is true about the warmer climates. There won't be a whole lot of liquid refrigerant migrating there in the warmer parts of the world. If there is any there it will flash off in a second or two before it even gets close to the rotors.
My recent experience was to use a variety or drill bits, hammer and long beater up regular screw driver, patience a few curse words, coffee breaks while off looking for a 5/8" x 8" long metal cutting bit, that does not seem to exist,by the way.
Oh yell, forgot about the trip to the eye doctor because the crap that is not metal found a way around my safety glasses and burnt like hell once in my eye. Took me several weeks to recover from that annoying one!
I ended up using my 5/8 masonry bit that was longer than the 7 1/2 inches needed, and I still have a snag that will not let me get the new heater in all the way, lacks about another 3/4" to fit properly.
Yes, use never seize when you install the new one.
How could I have forgotten this one, had to edit this info, early morning and a pot of coffee later.
When you drill with your 1/2" hammer drill and the 5/8" masonry bit make sure you hold that drill tight! Be ready for smashed hand and a sore wrist when it hangs up and smacks your hand onto the steel frame! Then get really pissed and tear the bearings out of the drill by being ready for the next time while now wearing gloves. I also decided to ram the bit into the hole a little further with my hammer before reconnecting the new drill to the now stuck bit that can only be removed by using a big pipe wrench and a small mini 3 pound sledge hammer.
After all that I still have a small bur inside the hole that will not let the heater fit the last 3/4 ".
Last edited by dgruber; 09-03-2009 at 07:28 AM.
Reason: Additional comments
I HATE replacing CCH's if I haven't done them before. I've done the drill bit chisel method on one Trane compressor, I bet I could have replaced the compressor faster than I did that stupid heater.
I've used anti-seize on them before, but I've also used that thermo conducting paste too. Never had a problem getting either out later, but it's only been a few years, so I'm not sure how well that thermo paste will hold up over time. Anyone have feedback on that?
"If you call that hard work, a koalas life would look heroic."
VETO PRO PAC, The Official Tool Bag of HVAC-Talk.com
The silver metallic honeywell thermo paste works well, never seize works just as well. I wish that Carrier would stop using that white stuff, it dries up like cement gets chalky and binds the CCH in place. Ive found that drilling out the guts of the heater and then driving a nail up beside the old heater usually crimps it up enough that you can get penetrating oil in and pull the shell out with vise grips. It's drilling out the outer shell of the heater that binds and snaps your wrist.