Ten ft of wire, a terminal block and a contactor-plenty enough room for something going to ground causing high amps, but not enough to cause a voltage drop. Get a virgin supply of 240 going to it that motor-preferably at your shop for peace of mind-and if amps are normal go back and find that grounding issue. I'm no where near some of these other guys, or you probably, in experience. I do know that when something just don't make sense it's because something you're assuming to be right is not.
What's the make and model of this unit? Something doesn't add up.
I think on your first post you mentioned too much humidity? You can't reset the air temp back if this is a typical pool dehumidification system as on reset the running of the compressor will overheat the pool water resulting in too much humidity and loss of the envelope control of the room.
Make and model of the unit to see the original design concept would be of great help.
This is an E.P.S. Dry-Air unit. M# hd96, serial # in my van, I'll find that later. The pool cover is designed as a vapor barrier, and I was told by the engineer and read in job specs that the room temp can be set back to any desired temp as long as humidistat is kept at or below 60%. I'll be the first to admit pool rooms and natatoriums are not my specialty, but this sounded reasonable to me. The pool will not overheat because of heat rejection of this unit. Pool temp is monitored and I have the ability to reject excess heat to the geothermal field.
To explain that last sentence so it means something: It's like doing math and you are adding up 2+2=4, but you keep getting 0. Then you realalize one of those 2's is a negative 2. Same thing when you're trying to diagnose a problem. Example: I've been adding a lot of refrigerant to this unit and I don't understand why my pressures are not going up. Problem:I assumed my gages were right. What didn't make sense: There's no way I added this much refrigerant and my pressures havn't gone up. Solution: Maybe my gages are broke.
I just saw the similarity in your statement about the ten ft. of wire, terminal block, contactor, nothing wrong with the wires, a new motor with correct voltage, no load, and high amps=wtf. If all you said was correct and there was not a missing variable, then the motor would draw normal amps. Either there is a missing variable affecting the equation or one of the factors used in the equation is incorrect. This is my brain on service.
New motor runs the same, 12.6 amps. Motors all the same- 208/230 single phase. Line voltage is 246.5 with unit off, 244.9 running. Block the return air with cardboard- 12.6 amps. run without belt, 12.6
exactly how are you obtaining amp draw?
i bet your adding both leg's together, that's not how it's done!
Can this unit pull in return air and/or outside air? Im wondering if the resistance of the return air duct is more than if its pulling outside air. Maybe when it goes to outside air there is less resitance and the fan loads up more.
If you get another motor, go to a 3hp. Make sure the wiring is adequate for the upgrade.