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Thread: jumper w2 and E

  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lancaster PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMLong View Post
    The question was
    Was/is a DIY question.

    Call a local contractor and ask him.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  2. #15
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    Nov 2006
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    ...and have you asked the company that installed your system....?
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    2 Tim 3:16-17

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  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Grottoes VA
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    5,856
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger93rsl View Post
    I don't know, jrbenny seems to think the same thing and he would know better than I would. I haven't touched a residential unit in 8 years and the last residential heat pump I installed shut down the outdoor unit below 20. The residential equipemnt has canged so much sense I've worked on it, I don't have enough knowledge on it to make anymore comments on the subject.
    I think benny actually disagreed with you.
    Karst means cave. So, I search for caves.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    S.W. Missouri
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    100
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger93rsl View Post
    You answered your own question in your post. And to answer your second question, no your condenser should not be running when it's 20 outside and your electric heat is on.
    You want to run the Heat pump. It is still more efficient to run it and have the heat strips kick on and off as needed as opposed to just using the Heat strips constantly.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    NC Coast
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    2,604
    I must have missed something!
    Jumpering W2 and E together only helps you when you tie all heat strips in together. Some air handlers like Rheem and Ruud actually have the purple wire to energize a set of heat strips. If the heaters are big enough then they also have white black stripe and white blue stripe. If you only make w2 the blue and black striped white wires then you will have all the heat strips on (the purple ties in with one of the striped wires on the sequencer.) If you go to Emergency... then only one sequencer gets energized and typically you loose half your electric heat. Thats why we almost always tie all heaters in to W2 and E. E doesnt kill the heatpump. Its just that E doesnt have a y signal out to start the heat pump.
    Why would you not use the heat pump for as much of the efficient heat as you can get instead of using the costly electric heat? Add the 2 together when its really cold (like its designed) and you will stay toasty warm.
    if you have a problem with your heat pump.... (call your contractor) like a bad compressor.... no refrigerant etc etc... then by all means bypass the heat pump and allow the Tstat to control the electric heat like it should. If you dont and run in normal with a bad heat pump you will typically only get to withing 2 degrees of the thermostat setpoint and the elctric heat will cut off and the ahu will blow room air around.
    We only install lockouts on the heat pumps if the are part of a dual fuel package.
    Silent Service........ Death From Below!

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  6. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    17
    Are you saying that E and W2

    Call and ask your local HVAC service installer/service company.
    Last edited by beenthere; 12-17-2009 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Removed DIY questions.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    2,176
    Dude, call a pro.

    This is simple heat pump theory.


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