jumper w2 and E

[TMLong]

I have a Goodman single stage HP with 10K strip (so it is a 2 stage heat, 1 stage cool system)
In the instruction manual for my T-stat, there is the recommendation to jumper W2 and E terminals. However, when stage 2 kicks in, would it not also power up the E circuit, causing my condenser to shut off? Wouldn't I want the condenser to stay running at, say, 20* while Aux heat was on?

[Senior Tech]

OP, sorry we can not provide diy advice on the site.


Guys, remember this forum is open for all to see.

[TMLong]

I am not exactly asking a trade secret here. It is a very simple question. If I was asking how to do an install then, ok, maybe I would understand. But asking a simple question like this deserves an answer. It would be like you asking a tire salesman what your tire pressure should be. Their answer is not going to take business away from them or anyone else.

I think it is funny that this site is called hvac-talk except HVAC is the one thing you cannot talk about because answers to questions might be considered DIY...please.

[chesehd]

It's not a matter of taking business away from someone.

Rather it is a question of safety.

Not everybody that reads this will be at the same level of ability. For example, I can remove a splinter from my finger but not my own eye (or anybody's eye for that matter...eek!).

Just because you may be more than able does not mean that the next individual that does a search and finds this is up to the task. If the less-than-able individual hurts their self and labels this site as their reference...bad day for HVACT!

That is why there is no DIY.

Good day and good luck to you.

[lw1acguy]

I found the problem..FIRST get rid of the Goodman.Than we talk..

[green jumper]

But asking a simple question like this deserves an answer. It would be like you asking a tire salesman what your tire pressure should be. Their answer is not going to take business away from them or anyone else.

I think it is funny that this site is called hvac-talk except HVAC is the one thing you cannot talk about because answers to questions might be considered DIY...please.

I think that would be asking an technician what the set point of your thermostat is

[Tiger93rsl]

You answered your own question in your post. And to answer your second question, no your condenser should not be running when it's 20º outside and your electric heat is on.

[jrbenny]

You answered your own question in your post. And to answer your second question, no your condenser should not be running when it's 20º outside and your electric heat is on.

If it's a HP, I'd rather have both evaporator and condenser running at 20F.

[TMLong]

Here's some info for IDEAL functionality.

Do the math - the math does not lie.

A heat pump can extract heat down to 0* Kelvin (which is semething like -459* F) This is what is called "absolute zero".

When it is 0*F outside, a 2 1/2 ton heat pump will kick out SOME heat. Granted, not enough to keep your house warm at 73* but it does.

It seems to me that it would be more efficient for the 10K strip to heat air that was pre-warmed by the A-coil

[TMLong]

...... no your condenser should not be running when it's 20º outside and your electric heat is on.

That cannot possibly be true.

[TMLong]

The question was

If W2 turns on/off aux heat
and
E turns on/off a relay that disables the condenser
then

If W2 and E were jumpered together like so many thermostat manuals suggest, wouldn't the condenser get shut off every time stage 2 kicked in and every time the condenser defrosts (which would turn itself off).

It doesn't make much sense.

Now, swith the t-stat to emergency heat and TAHT makes sense cuz you WANT the condenser off.

Guess I will leave them UN jumped.

[Tiger93rsl]

You said:

In the instruction manual for my T-stat, there is the recommendation to jumper W2 and E terminals

I strongly recommend you do what the instructons request. You wanted some advice, thats mine. But it's your unit do as you wish.

[Tiger93rsl]

That cannot possibly be true.

I don't know, jrbenny seems to think the same thing and he would know better than I would. I haven't touched a residential unit in 8 years and the last residential heat pump I installed shut down the outdoor unit below 20º. The residential equipemnt has canged so much sense I've worked on it, I don't have enough knowledge on it to make anymore comments on the subject.

[beenthere]

The question was

Was/is a DIY question.

Call a local contractor and ask him.

[timebuilder]

...and have you asked the company that installed your system....?

[karsthuntr]

I don't know, jrbenny seems to think the same thing and he would know better than I would. I haven't touched a residential unit in 8 years and the last residential heat pump I installed shut down the outdoor unit below 20º. The residential equipemnt has canged so much sense I've worked on it, I don't have enough knowledge on it to make anymore comments on the subject.

I think benny actually disagreed with you.

[mobowhntr]

You answered your own question in your post. And to answer your second question, no your condenser should not be running when it's 20º outside and your electric heat is on.

You want to run the Heat pump. It is still more efficient to run it and have the heat strips kick on and off as needed as opposed to just using the Heat strips constantly.

[Bubbleheadski]

I must have missed something!
Jumpering W2 and E together only helps you when you tie all heat strips in together. Some air handlers like Rheem and Ruud actually have the purple wire to energize a set of heat strips. If the heaters are big enough then they also have white black stripe and white blue stripe. If you only make w2 the blue and black striped white wires then you will have all the heat strips on (the purple ties in with one of the striped wires on the sequencer.) If you go to Emergency... then only one sequencer gets energized and typically you loose half your electric heat. Thats why we almost always tie all heaters in to W2 and E. E doesnt kill the heatpump. Its just that E doesnt have a y signal out to start the heat pump.
Why would you not use the heat pump for as much of the efficient heat as you can get instead of using the costly electric heat? Add the 2 together when its really cold (like its designed) and you will stay toasty warm.
if you have a problem with your heat pump.... (call your contractor) like a bad compressor.... no refrigerant etc etc... then by all means bypass the heat pump and allow the Tstat to control the electric heat like it should. If you dont and run in normal with a bad heat pump you will typically only get to withing 2 degrees of the thermostat setpoint and the elctric heat will cut off and the ahu will blow room air around.
We only install lockouts on the heat pumps if the are part of a dual fuel package.

[TMLong]

Are you saying that E and W2

Call and ask your local HVAC service installer/service company.

[CincyHVAC]

Dude, call a pro.

This is simple heat pump theory.