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  1. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Northwest Arkansas via Chicago Area via Straight Up from There on Lake Superior
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    1,411
    Quote Originally Posted by jdrook View Post
    jon ogrady:

    The JC Tech came and tested the pressure switch...it tests out fine. He can not find a problem and it has been difficult to get him out. He is going to look at some alternative issues sometime supposedly soon...Inducer fan, interior of drain pan to look for drainage issues, etc... Totally frustrated with no solution. I have to keep calling the tech. I am nobody and there a greater problems to solve. I just want somebody to take some initiative and solve the problem rather than throw it on the back burner. Honestly, I wish they would just replace the unit! Unit will work fine for a week or two and then stop working for no reason.

    jdrook
    Call the distributor and ask that his top technical support guy come out with contractor. If they do not solve it, insist that they escalate it to the highest level on manufacturer technical support. I was frustrated as was the contractor by the manufacturer's insistence that he go through the distributor. After the distributor visit and no solution, the distributor "magically" found out from the manufacturer that I had the wrong level HP control board and they sent a new one. Seems like everybody out there was being snowed a bit. Just like any support problem: ESCALATE, ESCALATE, ESCALATE!

  2. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    5

    Wink Pressure Switch

    After 6 tech visits, including 2 from the JC Rep. The problem was fixed. They replaced the original faulty presure switch with the "older model" faulty pressure switch. Replacing bad with bad! Works like a charm now. Bottom line...demand the newer manufactured pressure switch. Switches manufactured before January 2009 will fail and work intermittantly. Why they have not cleared those older switches off the supply house shelves is beyond me!

  3. #42

    Smile Thanks

    Thanks very much to jdrook, GATORLITTLE and all who contributed to this thread. My furnace service tech fixed my York Affinity furnace in Oct on the third service call and after a very cold previous winter. (The local York distributors apparently knew nothing about the pressure switch fault).

    Jon O'Grady
    Vancouver,B.C.

  4. #43
    kenney t Guest
    its not the ps its the way the factory routes the tube it fills with water just trap it. i've had to do it atleast 50 times

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Northwest Arkansas via Chicago Area via Straight Up from There on Lake Superior
    Posts
    1,411
    Quote Originally Posted by kenney t View Post
    its not the ps its the way the factory routes the tube it fills with water just trap it. i've had to do it atleast 50 times
    Kenney, I'm confused. I too had the furnace PS replaced last fall. Does this water in a tube problem mean that the problem can return even thought the PS was replaced?

    The 1st repair guy wasn't familiar with the new furnace and just blew in a little tube to the PS and it worked until the PS was replaced. Does this sound like the problem you found?

  6. #45
    kenney t Guest
    yes very simular just put a pig tail trap in the line,run the tube up then down so that water can not travel into the switch.where are the switches on fan inducer top or bottom? and pay att to were nipples on ps you want them facing down

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    SW Michigan, near Battle Creek
    Posts
    921
    on a lot of pressure switches there is a tiny bleed hole near the low pressure port. you have more trouble with water if this hole gets plugged. while the furnace is running air enters this hole and is drawn into the collector box, taking anny water in the tube with it. maybe everyone knows this but I learned it the hard way.

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Northwest Arkansas via Chicago Area via Straight Up from There on Lake Superior
    Posts
    1,411
    Thanks, Guys. Seems like little things you learn through experience are hard to beat.

  9. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    961
    Just had another York code 3 on a 2 year old 2 stage 95+ I had installed a 2nd drain trap tee in the vent and the only thing I found was the pig tail was set up too high or close to the tee.

    I lowered the pigtail below the tee about 6" or so. This change allowed proper drainage from the pvc drain tee. So far, seemed to fix the issue. The condensate was backing up into the tee.

    The magic question is why York does not know or have tech report on this? First off the 2nd drain tee was NOT in the York instructions, so may of these units are installed without them. Local York says its a nussance type of trip, reset furnance and usually goes away......So far, no pressure switch replacements.

    The newer design of Yorks 90+ state not to to install or trap the flue pipe? I have been following that design installation note so far....fingers crossed the problem wont happen on the newer designs.

    FYI Most of the problem units I have worked on are from 2008 and 2009 date of manufacturer. No issues on the older units so far....
    An astronaut stuck in space was asked by a reporter, "How do you feel?"
    "How would you feel," the astronaut replied, "if you were stuck here, on top of 20,000 parts each one supplied by the lowest bidder?"

    "do it right or do it twice"

  10. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    961
    I have tried teeing into the pressure tubing a few times with a magnehelic 0-2" wc scale. had issue with york tubing seemed larger than 1/4" opening so I cut back a half inch but it still was not a tight connection? I also question the calibration of my magna guage since I would not measure past .3" of wc. Any one have recommendation of a digital meter the use that works? I am reluctant to go digital but hate to buy another analoge type of magnehlic.

    Quote Originally Posted by dfelt View Post
    If a manometer is tee,d in to check actual draft you,ll find the value of draft developed.Take note of how value can sometimes change fr.when is started cold vs. when flame comes on.This is due to the lighter density of hot flue gasses and it will also show as reduced amp draw as inducer or combustion blower is working easier.
    Whether it,s a single or dual port press.sw. some mfgrs.will install volume restrictors/pulsation dampers in the barbed inlets to tend to the issue of the sw.making ,then burners come on and associated slight drop causing "buffeting" .These can be red or blue in colour indicating different decimal sizes.On occassion I,ve had misbehavin system and I,ve removed them,kept tabs on system via owner and had no problems.
    I,ve also found that some press.sw,s can be position sensitive in regards to mounting[probably more for the microswitch rather than diaphram].
    Is the unit in a non-conditioned area?If is a high eff.unit and has dedicated combustion air intake fr.outside during cold weather or even a period of hoar frost,the frost can get drawn in and if piping is backgraded to unit as discharge will be it then melts and the condensate can plug this small orifice.
    An astronaut stuck in space was asked by a reporter, "How do you feel?"
    "How would you feel," the astronaut replied, "if you were stuck here, on top of 20,000 parts each one supplied by the lowest bidder?"

    "do it right or do it twice"

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
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    19,496
    Glad you got it fixed.
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

    RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist

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  12. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
    Posts
    19,496
    Quote Originally Posted by hvacdoctor View Post
    I have tried teeing into the pressure tubing a few times with a magnehelic 0-2" wc scale. had issue with york tubing seemed larger than 1/4" opening so I cut back a half inch but it still was not a tight connection? I also question the calibration of my magna guage since I would not measure past .3" of wc. Any one have recommendation of a digital meter the use that works? I am reluctant to go digital but hate to buy another analoge type of magnehlic.
    I love my little Testo.

    http://www.testo.us/online/abaxx-?$p...goryid=6102659
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

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  13. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Buffalo NY
    Posts
    3,145

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by timebuilder View Post
    Dito. Testo 510.
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