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  1. #1

    ideas for dryer venting with dryer as close to wall as possible

    hi everyone,
    I just got a new front load washer and dryer. I am stacking them and space is a factor so I need to get the dryer as close to the wall as possible. However with rigid dryer vent or even flexible metal you know it is hard to get any closer than 4 to 5 inches from the wall. I am looking to be within 2 or so if possible.

    My dryer has a side venting option but the kit is $50 and would involve rerouting dryer vent all over the place. If I could get the rear dryer vent to work for cheaper I could possibly still use my existing vent route.

    I've seen various periscoping dryer vent products but not sure if those are any good.

    open for suggestions

    Thanks
    RYan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,260
    Check the building and safety code for your area. There are actually very strict codes about dryer venting, and they are largely ignored. I would invest the $50 if I were you.
    I r the king of the world!...or at least I get to stand on the roof and look down on the rest of yall

  3. #3
    really? I was unware of that. How do i find out that info is there a number in the phone book or a state website i can google?
    If it were you how would you find out if you didn't know them already.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Rapid City, SD
    Posts
    7,415


    That's what I used to install for driers back when I did resi. Gives the flex a bit of room to allow the drier to slide back a bit farther. No matter what though, it's always a pain to hook up a drier vent... at least for me.
    "If you call that hard work, a koala’s life would look heroic."

  5. #5
    amickracing
    great idea but i'm in existing construction so that isn't really easy to do. ideal though i like that install, but not really possible

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    I am unsure myself
    Posts
    1,116
    Cut away the drywall between studs where you are going to put the drier and you basically have what amick"s picture has a little mudding and it will look great . Amick that looks awesome I am going to copy that when my Laundry room gets finished.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,601
    You need one of these, www.dryerbox.com, when I was visiting Canada I saw a kit that allowed fresh air to come in. I could kick myself for not getting it. Also my new dryer has a clip that holds the vent pipe.

    Also I'd get a set of these, www.floodchek.com I got the angle fittings for each end. The hose that came with the washer burst, at the metal fitting after, 3 1/2 years, luckily I was home.
    Last edited by madhat; 12-05-2009 at 10:20 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Rapid City, SD
    Posts
    7,415
    I've installed a few of those dryer box's (commercially built one's) and I must say I like them. They are a bit spendy (well, they are when you're doing track housing), so that's why we always went back to using up scrap pieces and building our own.
    "If you call that hard work, a koala’s life would look heroic."

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Olathe, KS
    Posts
    10
    Not knowing where you are going from the new dryer to the existing dryer piping makes it hard to be much help but I'll give my two cents worth. Obviously if the vent comes out the back of the dryer and is 4" in diameter and you have to go from a top mounted dryer to a pipe in the wall low near the floor you are not going to be able to get closer than 4" minimum. If you can open up a stud bay and place the vent pipe in the wall or if the pipe goes up through the wall you can open up the sheetrock and move the dryer vent location up so you can connect without having to run behind the dryer and washing machine. If you have space to come out the side of the dryer and then down or up to the dryer pipe you would be able to get closer to the wall. A couple things to keep in mind about dryers and stacked units, most dryers pull their air from louvers on the back of the dryer so being too close could restrict the air entering the dryer. The other thing about stacked units is that with the dryer on top when the washing machine spins, and horizontal machines do shake when they spin, the dryer will move a fair amount so you would be wise to keep some distance from any other surfaces. I have a horizontal washing machine on a stand and its on the second floor of my house it shakes the whole floor with some loads. It also likes to move around sometimes 3-4 inches and I have to scoot it back into position.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,601
    amickracing, I have a question for you. Looking out what I assume is the Basement window, the basement appears to be mostly above ground level, why didn't the builder insulate the Concrete basement walls ?? My basement here in Maryland is insulated to the floor. I know it gets a lot colder in South Dakota.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Rapid City, SD
    Posts
    7,415
    Insulation costs money man! We can't go insulating a house too well around here, I mean they'd never sell a house then! lol

    It does get pretty dang cold from time to time around here, but oddly enough except for high end builders, no one insulates the bottom of the wall in a basement like that. Typically when it's finished there is a wall built inside of the concrete wall that's insulated and rocked, but most new houses around here have unfinished basements.

    Another thing that kinda drives me nuts is no one insulates under a slab unless they are doing in floor heat because "well, we don't need to!". I kinda call BS. I know a couple inches of insulation under a slab won't exactly make it toasty warm (with out in floor heat), but it'll slow down the suckage of heat from the room! No one listens to me on that subject though.
    "If you call that hard work, a koala’s life would look heroic."

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