basically the same as the above. 4# is plenty of pressure, altough i have one r11 hr i bump it up to 20, with the burst disc removed. you do not see bubbles, you don't have a leak. i have several leak detectors, use the one closest to the door, including halide, which is tough because i'm color blind
Give me a reason give it a leak test agree with all of the above.
Originally Posted by CaptJackSparrow
Arguing with your Boss is like wrestling with a pig in
After a while you realize that while you are getting
dirty, the pig is actually enjoying it.
It is not exactly cheating, I prefer to consider it
creative problem solving.
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Originally Posted by CaptJackSparrow
Sorry Graham I have a different opinion I think hot water leak checking is %$#@^%! I have caused more leaks with hot water than I can stand. We went to chillers with no purge time, hook up the hot water and boom, leak rates up, we go back to the job and theres a big leak on the terminal board or somewhere. Usually a flat gasket! We do agree that the purge is the best leak detector. If it aint purgen! dont leak check it! Just verify purge operation. If you do recover the charge you get to do a leak test even better than a purge, thats is a vacuum test. When you leave the job you know for a fact how tight the machine is. I dont mind using hot water on some machines like 19ds, they have the paper/asbestos gaskets and dont seem subject to leaking after hot h20. I have 1990 CVHE that has about 500 mins of pumpout time, That came from my first hot water leak check on it. Caused the term board to leak. It has never been leak checked again and is tight. I have other stories but just to give my two cents own the matter, I think the hours padded into the annuals to leak check is BS. I wish the industry would change and stop leak checking non leaking chillers, also change the scope and price to reflect that! We at my "old job" always charged for the leak check but seldom performed the leak check. Which can get me off on another soap box so i will shut up while i am ahead!
Agreed dont get me wrong" if it aint purgin it aint leakin" as long as the chiller gets some off time to be sure its not a high side leak . But there are customers who say "I paid for a leak test so I want it a leak test " So I give them a "courtesy" leak test to appease them .
You are better off doing thorough purge maintenance and spending time checking all the flat gasket joints once a year to check if they are tight . Particularly motor cooling lines and economizer vent lines etc.
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If the unit has a rupture disk, I wouldn't go above 5 psi.
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Try the purge itself, for leaks. You can also have a go at running the chiller with the purge valved off and isolated see if it stays the same or gets worse. I have had some trouble in the past with the connections on the purge driers and the valves themselves leaking. Good luck.
i put in a pancake...........
Originally Posted by Randy S.
I would check the sensor threads on the bottom of the purge. I have had to retap the threads. Also check the econimizer flange connection to the evap.
Between the log readings, and the purge counts you will know if you have a leak issue. I have used the RefTec also, run 'till pressure gets to 7 psig using an accurate gauge. If you want to go above 10 psig you might want to fit up the back side of your pressure relief vent line, and install a line to keep the pressure equal on both sides of the disc. Isolating the condenser water valves at the barrel will usually prevent any problems getting the pressure up.