Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 14 to 26 of 59
  1. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Oshawa On.
    Posts
    6
    sorry i am used to forums where the new posts are at the bottom of the page this one puts them at the top. oops.

    Evan
    http://evogreen.ca

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Eastern PA
    Posts
    68,981
    Quote Originally Posted by Evogreen View Post
    sorry i am used to forums where the new posts are at the bottom of the page this one puts them at the top. oops.

    Evan
    http://evogreen.ca
    Being mildly dislexic myself, I'm just picturing you being so dislexic that you get entire sites backwards.....sorry, it was just a thought
    Government is a disease...
    ...masquerading as its own cure…
    Ecclesiastes 10:2 NIV


  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,803
    Go to CP. And you can change the display order.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Northwest Arkansas via Chicago Area via Straight Up from There on Lake Superior
    Posts
    1,411
    Quote Originally Posted by mckpickle View Post
    Just as a comparison, in sep and april the heat pump hardly ever kicks on. During those months the bill is still around 200 bucks. We're on an eletric co-op and it's around 30% higher than other companies....(go figure). When we do use the pump for colling in the summer it only adds about 75 bucks. This july/aug, with a 8 month pregnant wife, we kept the house at 72-74 and it was about 75 bucks anyway. But keep in mind, I'm in NH so 90 degrees here is a crisis!
    MC, have you figured your usage and cost/kWh? I too am with an electric co-op here in Arkansas and my rate is about $.095-.10/kWh. Even in my worst AC month I have never broken $200 for electricity but then we keep it at 79 F.

    Quote Originally Posted by mckpickle View Post
    In the winter the pump really works. I'm starting to wonder if the open loop system where it dumps "chilled" water back into the well was a good idea. Jan/feb my well temp ends up down to about 43-45 degrees. The heat pump is still able to pull plenty of heat out of the water and we've never gone cold, but I grit my teeth when the thing kicks on.
    I think that the pros here would tell you that at that temp can support heating and with your high SEER geo (what is it, maybe 26-28 SEER?) you should get reasonable costs. Heck, I just installed a new 17 SEER DFHP and the HP (air-to-air) is set to run until it is 35 F before going to NG furnace. I'll freak if my total electric/NG bill exceeds the old bill.

    Quote Originally Posted by mckpickle View Post
    The house is about 3400 sq feet and is wicked tight.
    Mine is larger, built in 1994 and the total energy bill was $1500-1600 last year. We do set cooling at 79 F and heating at 68 F night, 70 F day. What vintage is your house? We had one done by the electric co-op for $100. Ours is very tight at .33 air changes/hour. Have you done a blower door and infrared camera test on the house and if so what were the results?

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    south cental iowa
    Posts
    18
    Most geo today have temp sensors to turn on desuper heater cirulator when there is extra heat to be had. You will get more hot water in winter becase of longer run time but when the heat laod gets to much the desuper is shut off. If you don't have a pretank for your desuper you must be sure your water heater temp is not above about 110 deg. or it can put heat back to your unit in the heating mode and you pay for your heat through your water heater. your best bet is a pretank for the geo. you will get more out of it and you can set your water heater to what ever you want.

  6. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by bee View Post
    Most geo today have temp sensors to turn on desuper heater cirulator when there is extra heat to be had. You will get more hot water in winter becase of longer run time but when the heat laod gets to much the desuper is shut off. If you don't have a pretank for your desuper you must be sure your water heater temp is not above about 110 deg. or it can put heat back to your unit in the heating mode and you pay for your heat through your water heater. your best bet is a pretank for the geo. you will get more out of it and you can set your water heater to what ever you want.
    Nice educated answer from someone who knows what they are talking about, I was thinking pretty much exactly what you responded bee. He is exactly right, most units will turn the desuperheater off in second stage heating, thus leaving all of the capacity for space heating. It makes perfect sense. The unit will run more to take the outside temp from 30 to 70 than from 90 to 70.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Eastern PA
    Posts
    68,981
    Quote Originally Posted by softail124 View Post
    Nice educated answer from someone who knows what they are talking about, I was thinking pretty much exactly what you responded bee. He is exactly right, most units will turn the desuperheater off in second stage heating, thus leaving all of the capacity for space heating. It makes perfect sense. The unit will run more to take the outside temp from 30 to 70 than from 90 to 70.
    You seem to missing the point that the heat produced in the winter is not excess heat, it is heat needed to warm the air in the house. In the winter, there is no excess heat for the domestic water. Either you are paying to heat the water by running the heat pump or you are paying to heat the house with auxilliary electric heaters.
    Government is a disease...
    ...masquerading as its own cure…
    Ecclesiastes 10:2 NIV


  8. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    south cental iowa
    Posts
    18
    there is extra heat most of the time and if head presure is up it will produce some hot water. It will be cheeper that electric heat. When head presue (temp)drops the unit will turn of desup. ciculater.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Eastern PA
    Posts
    68,981
    Quote Originally Posted by bee View Post
    there is extra heat most of the time and if head presure is up it will produce some hot water. It will be cheeper that electric heat. When head presue (temp)drops the unit will turn of desup. ciculater.
    There is no "extra" heat unless the system is in the cooling mode. Yes, it is less expensive to heat domestic water with the heat pump....if the system is not needed to produce heat for the home heating....BUT! There is no "extra" heat in the heat mode.

    When the system is in the cooling mode, heat is a byproduct. When the system is in the heating mode, heat is what you pay to produce.
    Government is a disease...
    ...masquerading as its own cure…
    Ecclesiastes 10:2 NIV


  10. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    south cental iowa
    Posts
    18
    the evap coil can't remove all the heat from the high side evan when it's cool in the house. later it the year when the loop temp drops head will to and then you don't get much hot water if any then.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Eastern PA
    Posts
    68,981
    Quote Originally Posted by bee View Post
    the evap coil can't remove all the heat from the high side evan when it's cool in the house. later it the year when the loop temp drops head will to and then you don't get much hot water if any then.
    Believe what you want to believe, but you are paying for all heat generated in the winter and you are getting all heat for free (other then the cost to run the circulator) in the summer. So all of this nonsense about getting more hot water for less in the winter is just that; nonsense.
    Government is a disease...
    ...masquerading as its own cure…
    Ecclesiastes 10:2 NIV


  12. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    south cental iowa
    Posts
    18
    You are right, it not free heat excert sumer but it is cheep heat even in heat mode.If run a load simulator with a geo unit with a desuperheater your operating cost will go up about 90 buck, but your hot water cost go down buy 300 buck. sound cheep to me. just sayin

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    south cental iowa
    Posts
    18
    These number will change depending on where you are for heat and cool demand. In the south you get lots more free, north not so much.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event