desuperheater fitting for water heater tanks

[Chad711]

Where is the heck can I find these, they screw right in where the drain for the water heater is, has a chunk of 1/2 copper that goes inside the 3/4, then has an inlet/outlet and drain. Some of you may know what Im talking about. For Geo systems...

Local parts guys have no idea what Im talking about. Also, these things plug up pretty quick dont they...

[hvacguy55]

They plug up REAL quick. Every time. Stopped using them.

[Chad711]

Thats what I was thinking, the water has very little clearance. I "made" one since I wasnt able to find one, it works!

[protechplumbing]

You are referring to what's known as a "coaxial fitting". As hvacguy said, if you have very hard water in your area they will get clogged up easily.

[mo geo man]

Have to agree the coaxial method just leeds to maintenance problems if the water has any impurities. We quit piping that way a few years ago. Our manufacturer still shows piping it coaxial in there literature.

[protechplumbing]

The best thing to do is buy a larger solar tank. Look for tanks designed for open loop solar applications. They will have 5 ports on the top and 3 dip tubes. You usually get more mileage out of a bigger tank when hooked up to a desuperheater because you can store the heat longer and not depend on the electric resistance elements in the heater so much. Disconnect the lower element to so that it's not firing when the desuperheater is working.

[mseng]

Talk to the parts supply house about a water cooled condenser. It will hold up well with lime build up for a few years.

[protechplumbing]

The main issue with them liming up is that when they draw water through a coaxial fitting at the bottom of the tank they picku sediment in the bottom of the tank. This sediment then clogs the desuperheaters smaller water passages. This is not an issue when hooked up to a tank with 2 extra dip tubes that are cut 6" from the tank bottom.

Its pretty sillly to hook them up to a standard water heater from both an efficiency and reliability point of view.

[norm36]

we use the t&P port on the top with a 3/4 brass nipple to a brass tee, then pull the drain out ant use a 3/4 brass nipple and tee there too it has never given us problems

[MWenzel]

We no longer use coaxial fittings as well. I'm not sure what water heater you are using or if this will help but here's a photo of the desuperheater piping using a Vaughn.



Ill also try to drum up some different diagrams that could assist you in a different method of piping without need of a coaxial.

[SkyHeating]

We always use a 50 gallon desuperheater storage tank before going into the water tank and have had no issues with this so far and from what I can tell is the most efficient. Plus we dont' need to use that silly 4 way fitting that plugs up, we just push the water back in through the drain at the bottom and pull out of the cold water inlet in the top.

Then again, in Oregon we are required by law to hire a plumber and pull a permit for anything beyond two nipples and two 18" water flex lines so my plumber brings the fittings he needs.

[MWenzel]

Then again, in Oregon we are required by law to hire a plumber and pull a permit for anything beyond two nipples and two 18" water flex lines so my plumber brings the fittings he needs.

Same issue with plumbing in Mass, then head over the border to here in NH and were allowed to do the piping ourselves.

[hawkeyehvac]

We pull off of the cold water inlet, pipe it to the desuperheater, and then pipe it back to the bottom of the waterheater using a 3/4inch brass T with a boiler drain on the opposite side.