oil level switch-30GX chiller

[moideen]

can anyone help to give me a good advice how to replace the oil level switch in 30 gx chillers.is it possible without pumpdown the system?any advice much be appreciated.


Moideen-Dubai

[Dallas Duster]

You are going to have to recover it or transfer it , but you cannot pump it down . Are you sure it`s bad ?

[hw chiller man]

Be careful with that switched. I replaced one this week because we had oil at the schraeder on the bottom of the vessel but the switch would not make. Replaced switch, inspected old one and it worked every time by adjusting float up and down by hand. Pretty simple device, cannot understand how it wouldn't work inside oil separator. Perhaps the level switch is not at the same height as the schraeder extension inside the barrel. New switch works properly though.

[hw chiller man]

You can get the most oil out of the vessel by closing the valve upstream of the internal oil filter and front seating the service valve upstream of the inline filter. Remove the oil from the service port. When no more oil flows you will have about 2 quarts left in the oil separator. The level switch has an "O" ring which makes the seal so you don't have to worry about oil on the threads. This is also a good time to change both oil filters. You will have to isolate as much refrigerant as you can in the condenser and then reclain all the refrigerant remaining in the evaporator and compressor to get the pressure out of the oil separator so that you can remove the switch. Good luck.

[HeatXfer]

Follow Chiller Man's directions. But here's a tip for the older (mid 90's) chillers: the first 30GXs didn't have O-rings on the oil level sensor fittings and tended to leak there (among other places). POE has solvent characteristics that can dissolve some sealants.
Carrier came up with a sensor retrofit that required the cutting of an O-ring groove in the existing threaded fitting on the separator. Unless that was done, you probably don't have an O-ring there.
To ensure a good seal and keep the job cleaner, pick up some Loctite #554 and electrical contact cleaner (non-residue type). Pull a vacuum on the separator, loosen the sensor fitting and spray the contact cleaner into and around the fitting, letting the vacuum draw the cleaner up through the threads to flush out the POE. Loctite the threads on the new sensor and quickly swap out the old with the new. If you're fast, you can swap the fitting before any remaining oil can work it's way down onto the freshly cleaned threads.
I've cured some chronic leaks on 134a systems this way.