Crimp on connectors cooking off... hmmm...
Due to the glorious recession I've been doing more kitchen service work.
So I'm running into failed crimp connectors or rather failed wire at connector on steam tables and other resistance heat element controls and the element themselves.
Other than high temp crimp connectors what other good practices need to be done or is this just the reality of kitchen equipment?
Don't know if 'kitchen environment effects are an added factor -but in general all power crimps (especially replacement after overheating), is getting back to clean metal. I'll straighten the twist out and separate the strands to get a fine wire brush in there and a wipe clean, then re-twist prior to crimping.
solder the wire to the connector, takes a few mins but will help prevent call-backs. Dont forget to use ceramic wire nuts if you have to splice wires. Thanks to the recession I started working on cooking equipment. Damn, I had it easy before.
i have a few ovens with grill tops i work on and although i don't get the High Temp Terminal ends i just get the uninsulated ones and never had a problem, also i use stainless steal nuts and bolts (if its a ring terminal)
these grill tops are around 600 deg F
Second that. If you can not strip to clean, replace the wire. Nickel.
Originally Posted by mixsit
"Fighting Ignorance since 1973 (Its taking longer than we thought)." The Straight Dope.
I 2nd that on the high temp nickel plate wire, and I believe there are non insulated crimp on connectors that are nickel as well and are made for high temp. I know my boss always kept a supply of them on our trucks for high temp stuff...I just liked them cuz they are nice and shiny..lol...jk
had to go to the shop this pm to find some obsolete parts & found an
un opened roll of 250 ft. # 12 high temp wire & a metal terminal box full of shiney
terminals.. almost makes me want to do the hot side again.
Johnstone sells a nice kit just for high temp
If your not part of the solution, You must be part of the problem
You need an Ideal CrimpMaster, with the non-insulated crimp jaws, also I second soldering. Fluxed, used StayBrite on the wire, crimped, fluxed and hit with a tiny bit of StayBrite. I used a Butane solder iron, since you can use them anywere. They are nice for Board repair, as they don't generate static like the AC Irons do.
I only have to make it work till I retire.
I've found most of the burnt off wires I have encountred are caused by a loose connect somewhere else in the circut.drawing high amps.
make sure everythings tight and in good condition, if it looks iffy repair it with Hi-Temp terminations and Hi-Temp wire if it needs replacing
End of call backs for me.
Would that crimper be the one that crimps the uninsulated type that makes both sides roll into the middle of the wire? You know the type you see on factory made tail ends.
Originally Posted by madhat
The one I use is a standard ratchet crimper that has 3 sizes on the jaws and won't crimp that sort of crimp.
I always find that the female spade connection is never tight and has to be squashed down prior to shoving it on the male spade, it lasts for a bit longer.
Last edited by chilliwilly; 12-15-2009 at 09:10 PM.
Reason: missing text
50 & 60 hz but 100's worse
When I crimp the wires I use the inside of my linemans pliers. Its not pretty as it is flat, but the connector stays attached to the wire.
My all time favorite tool.....
Originally Posted by Joe Harper