TrueSteam in Attic?

[rosenc1c]

I am in process of building a new house in Oklahoma. We want a humidifier, and so the contractor has quoted a Honeywell TrueSteam humidifier. He is also planning on locating it in an unconditioned attic space upstairs. He is going to insulate the water lines and install a pan. As I understand, this i the first TrueSteam unit that he has installed.

Based upon reading the TrueSteam literature and some threads on this site, it is not recommended that a TrueSteam unit be located in any space that experiences temperatures below 32 F. My questions are as follows:

1) Even with insulated lines, is it a bad idea to locate in the attic? It does get cold in OK, but it's not as severe as some other parts of country.

2) If we locate it inside the house, are there any concerns with it leaking?

3) How loud are these units when they operate?

Thanks,

rosenc1c

[beenthere]

1) Even with insulated lines, is it a bad idea to locate in the attic? It does get cold in OK, but it's not as severe as some other parts of country.

Real Bad Idea.

2) If we locate it inside the house, are there any concerns with it leaking?

Not nearly as much as if you have it in the attic.

3) How loud are these units when they operate?

You shouldn't hear it, if its in a closet.

Thanks,

rosenc1c

At 3800 sq ft. If your house is of average construction. A single 12GPD Truesteam is too small.

You should consider having 2-12GPD units installed. 1 on each system.

[rosenc1c]

Thank you Beenthere. One thing I don't understand is how we can locate hot water tanks in the attic, but not the humidifier? My hot water tank is sitting right next to the heater, but wouldn't we have the same concern with the water lines freezing?

Regarding size, I know that we are undersized. Our house is 5,000 sq. ft. and we have 3 units. My main reason for adding a humidifier was to help provide some protection to the wood floors. The contractor quoted one 9 gpd unit to be placed upon the biggest unit (5 ton), which services the downstairs area of the house with the wood floors. I completely understand that this will not provide uniform humidity throughout the house, but my thought was that it will add some humidity and will be better than nothing. Based upon what I have been reading, I'm wondering if I should just eliminate the humidifiers altogether, they may be more trouble than they are worth.

[beenthere]

If your area that has the water heater is protected for freezing under normal operating conditions.

Then it should be no problem.

Considering how little water a humidifier holds. During a power outage. It doesn't take much time for them to freeze.

A 9GPD in a 5,000 sq ft house. You won't even notice if its working.

Although its possible to have humidity statification. As long as the warm air of the first floor has a way to rise to the second floor. The humidity will not remain contained to the first floor.

What was your humidity this past winter.

Why are you having an HRV installed?

[rosenc1c]

If your area that has the water heater is protected for freezing under normal operating conditions.

Then it should be no problem.

I'll check and see how they protect the hot water tank.

Considering how little water a humidifier holds. During a power outage. It doesn't take much time for them to freeze.

A 9GPD in a 5,000 sq ft house. You won't even notice if its working.

Although its possible to have humidity statification. As long as the warm air of the first floor has a way to rise to the second floor. The humidity will not remain contained to the first floor.

I realized it will not be constained in the first floor. I was working on the premise that it would be better than nothing, but maybe it's going to have the same effect as peeing in the ocean.

What was your humidity this past winter.

I'm not sure, I don't have any measurement in my current home.

Why are you having an HRV installed?

Sorry, what is an HRV? I assume that is some acronym for the humidifier. Since I don't think I'm prepared to put 3 humidifiers in the house, I think maybe you have talked me in to removing the humidifier altogether.

[beenthere]

Sorry, confused you with another poster that is having an HRV installd.

Heat Recovery Ventilatior.

It brings in fresh air, and removes stale air.

You can go out and get a chea hydrother from Walmart or other store. And see what your indoor humidity is.
And use that to determine if you need a humidifier.

A lady I had talked with a while back.
Had a 9 GPD for her 3800 sq ft house. Her house had the same humidity, weather she used the humidifier or not.

[captube]

I have seen hot water tanks cause extensive damage in Ok. from tank failure, seen a few humidifiers cause damage from lines freezing.
Neither are a good idea.
Keep that HWT fresh and buy the best you can.

[rosenc1c]

captube, can you explain what keep it "fresh" means?

[captube]

I mean replace it, how often is a guess but i have seen 9 yr. old builder grade models go. Pans under the HWT do no good when the bottom fails, as an example HWT tank in garage with safety pan 2,000 sq. ft. wood floor replaced.
I just replaced mine 11yrs. old woke up to find water running out the garage.

As a side note i have many customers with wood floors and no humidification required in a reasonably sealed home.

[dad211]

ive been told by a few smart hvac guys that if you are heating with natural gas or oil that there is enough moisture in the gas to add humidity to the air they never said how much humidity but it seemed smart enough to be true

[Zeiss Nut]

ive been told by a few smart hvac guys that if you are heating with natural gas or oil that there is enough moisture in the gas to add humidity to the air they never said how much humidity but it seemed smart enough to be true

You have been told wrong.

Unless it is a ventless gas fireplace, a natural gas or oil burner would vent all of their combustion product outside.

and yes when gas is burned it produce water. but since all of the combustion supposed to be vented outside, No way the combustion byproduct of water can contribute to humidity inside the house.

[beenthere]

ive been told by a few smart hvac guys that if you are heating with natural gas or oil that there is enough moisture in the gas to add humidity to the air they never said how much humidity but it seemed smart enough to be true

On ventless equipment yes.

On vented equipment no.

[mmj614]

On ventless equipment yes.

On vented equipment no.

That reminds me of a job we bidded on last week...the homeowner was comparing my proposals with a competitor and when I offered humidifiers as part of the package...he was convinced by the other contractor that they were not needed since they were installing 90% high efficiency condensing furnaces...what is that about??

Getting back to the original post on humidifier in the attic being a potential freeze, in the Chicago burbs the furnaces in the attic will typically have walls built around them and stay extremely warm to prevent freezing. Not much of an issue although a water heater would make me a bit nervous for other reasons.

[beenthere]

That reminds me of a job we bidded on last week...the homeowner was comparing my proposals with a competitor and when I offered humidifiers as part of the package...he was convinced by the other contractor that they were not needed since they were installing 90% high efficiency condensing furnaces...what is that about??

An interesting why we're so "cheap" sales tatic.

[vstech]

listen.
humidification is needed because the air in your home is heated. it doesn't matter if it's heated with oil, gas, electricity, heatpump, solar, radiant infloor, baseboard, etc. if the temperature goes up, and there is no water added to the building, humidity will lower as a % of the temp of the air. because warm air can hold MORE water than cool air can.
the ONLY exception is if you heat with steam, and have steam radiators that VENT steam into the home.
tighter homes need less humidification, but they will need some if there is a large temp difference inside the home to outside.