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Thread: gas wiring
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04-12-2009, 02:55 PM #1
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gas wiring
I accidently hooked 120v to the optional wall switch of a honeywell millivolt system.I was hoping this could be an easy fix?
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04-12-2009, 03:06 PM #2
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Well, one can always hope.
Did you connect it to just the switch, or was it connected to the wiring to the gas valve itself? 120v won't hurt a switch, but it WILL irrepairably damage the gas valve. Do not try to use the appliance until you have a pro come out and check.
Where are you? Are you done yet? I got ONE more call for you.....
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04-12-2009, 03:18 PM #3
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Switch stayed off=no current flow=possibly no damage.
Originally Posted by rainyday
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04-12-2009, 03:36 PM #4
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It was connected to wiring of the gas valve. the Thermpile burned bright red and then it burned out and a large puff of smoke. This all happened in seconds.I didn't have time to pull the plug. Are you saying the whole guts would need to be replaced. I was hoping just the thermopile. I'm an electrician not hvac. I will call the guys who installed it .I was just trying to have some info of my mistake.
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04-12-2009, 03:53 PM #5
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The key is to keep the smoke in the device Originally Posted by rainyday
Gotta have the right tool for the job!
Where is all the stuff MADE IN THE USA?
"Thats what we do Troy. Incredible, Invisible, Imbelivable things. We are an Unseen, Unknown, Unvincible fraternity of craftsman.."
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04-12-2009, 06:03 PM #6
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I know I screwed up big time I don't appreciate the sarcasim. Originally Posted by Pascone10
The key is to keep the smoke in the device
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04-12-2009, 06:55 PM #7
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Need new thermocouple and probably a new gas valve.
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04-12-2009, 08:11 PM #8
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Needs new valve and thermopile. There will be melted hole at the tip of the thermopile so it won't slide out easy.
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04-12-2009, 08:14 PM #9
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You could check the resistance of the gas valve coil, but even if it's within spec's the life of the valve is probably shortened.
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04-12-2009, 08:21 PM #10
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I apologize. just trying to make a joke that pops up on this site often..
I did not mean to offend you. The other guys gave you good advice. where did the smoke come from? I would check the resistance of the valve as well.Gotta have the right tool for the job!
Where is all the stuff MADE IN THE USA?
"Thats what we do Troy. Incredible, Invisible, Imbelivable things. We are an Unseen, Unknown, Unvincible fraternity of craftsman.."
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04-12-2009, 09:01 PM #11
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You must replace the valve! Think about it. There was over 100 times the approved voltage run through the valve. If you have a 120 volt appliance and hooked it up to 12000 volts it is going to cause problems. Even if resistance was good you would be stupid not to change it. Yes, it was a stupid and costly mistake but you would be risking everything if you don't replace it. Call the manufacturer or your insurance company if you want a second opinion.
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04-12-2009, 09:22 PM #12
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Ditto natgastech and the others. It is toast. It is no longer the same valve that was tested and listed for this fireplace. To leave it in operation would be negligent. Replace the valve, thermopile, and thermocouple plus any other switches or controls.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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04-12-2009, 09:32 PM #13
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Ditto the tested and listed if the valve saw 120v. 100x the voltage is 10,000x the power is 10,000x the normal temp. rise above amb. for the valve coil windings. If there's any chance the valve can fail to the open position it should be replaced.
If you have a schematic and can show where the voltage/current went and didn't go, some of the circuitry and wiring might be OK. Maybe.
Did the breaker trip?
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