Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 27 to 32 of 32
  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    396
    That's a little out of my normal service area, but WTH, If you pay travel time, I'm there !!! LOL, I'm sure someone can point you in the right direction.
    Common sense is NOT common !!!

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by logdoc_rob View Post
    That's a little out of my normal service area, but WTH, If you pay travel time, I'm there !!! LOL, I'm sure someone can point you in the right direction.
    Nice.... have you ever been in St Louis in the Summertime? Can you spell hot and muggy!

    I have a lead on a fireplace company not to far from here as the ones who sold it to me more or less said that they can't figure it out.

    Par for the course I guess!

    A question to everyone what is a good brand? Obviously this "heat n glo.... Royal brand" is one i am going to avoid at all costs in the future. I hate buying stuff twice when it should work the first time.

    thanks to all.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    396
    I have not encountered a Royal brand gas fireplace, but H&G make very good products.

    I'll trade ya Summers, but you can keep that Winter you have up there. June-August humidity levels can be 80% at 2am to 96% during the day, the heat index gets 115 degrees at times.
    Common sense is NOT common !!!

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,609
    From an analytical point of view, this is what I think is happening. When you have a fire in the Fire box, the box and the door expand due to the heat. There is an imperfection in the casting with the way the box and door fit together. When the unit is heating up the expansion provides enough clearance for the door to slide over this imperfection. When you cool down the contracted parts get smaller and there is not enough clearance for the parts to slide back over this imperfection. The tension slowly builds up till it's past the resistance point. Then you get this sudden release of energy, as the door goes back in to place, and the glass breaks do to the shockwave. BiMetal Klixon switches use this same action, I've had my thumb busted open from the metal going back in place.

    Could you get a piece of heavy gauge sheet metal and have it cut to the dimensions of the glass? Install it temporarily in place of the glass. Mark where the door is. Heat the unit up, and see where the door is. It should be close to the cold mark. Cool the unit off and check several times over the next hour for uneveness on the match up of the mark? IE it's an 1/8" off on one corner and 3/8" off on the opposite corner.

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    15

    glass

    Hmm, i am not sure i understand. Really there is no door.. its a "museum" front. The glass never opens so i am not sure what i am looking for.

    Measurements were made and nothing seems to be pinched or cockeyed. I very carefully replaced the last glass and it work all season long until this last month.

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    15

    closed

    ok done. yanked out the pos and replaced with a new Heat n Glo.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event