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Thread: high humidity
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03-05-2009, 09:54 AM #14
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03-05-2009, 10:01 AM #15
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03-05-2009, 10:11 AM #16
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Hello and thank you for your reply, I am confused on the answer. 1 ton over-size evaporator coil won't creat more humidity if it is setting up correctly
Will it create less humidity if it is set up right? or would dropping the fan speed to low do just as good, if the coil does not freeze up.
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03-05-2009, 11:11 AM #17
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That is for the qualified technician to give you the solution. I don't mean to be rude.
It is very very easy to deal with sensible heat (dry bulb temperature). And I did emphasize the word very.
But when it comes to latent heat (wet bulb temperature). It is very difficult in the sense that you don't want to compromise the punishment that the equipment will take it it is not done properly
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03-05-2009, 03:44 PM #18
i'd start with lowering the fan to low. if you don't have freezing issues.. problem solved. if freezing occurs then get the right size equipment.
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03-05-2009, 06:25 PM #19
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03-06-2009, 11:17 AM #20
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03-06-2009, 12:21 PM #21
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03-11-2009, 08:59 PM #22
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See Teddybear's comment for 99% answer. The other 1% is to consider a two speed compressor. That will give you good humidity control.
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03-11-2009, 09:30 PM #23
Appreciate your support. But with low/no cooling load, single speed or two speed will not remove enough moisture to maintain 50%RH.
Another comment of slowing the fan to a lower speed, I tuned my old system to remove max latent. If I cooled below 74^F, the a/c coil would freeze. I did not cool below 76^F. A system slowed to the minimum air flow to remove max latant will freeze-up with cooling below a cvouple degrees below your lowest temperature. I needed 10 hours of cooling load to maintain <50%RH. If you are getting an air change of fresh air every 4-5 hours with 4 occupants, you should remove 50-75 lbs. of moisture everyday. Combining a properly set-up a/c with a good whole house dehumidifier makes this a piece of cake. Set the temperature and %RH you want forget it. Plus you can have the ideal amount of fresh air for indoor air quality. Lets keep the Ventilation in HVAC. Regards TBBear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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03-11-2009, 10:35 PM #24
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03-11-2009, 11:01 PM #25
How can I determine that data? I have a 4 Ton coil for my 3 Ton XL16i and I'm concerned I made a mistake and should have gone with a 3 Ton coil which only gave up 200 BTU of cooling and 0.25 SEER. I'm especially concerned about humidity removal in low stage which is about 2.2 Tons.
I read a study from the mid 80's that showed no correlation between face area of a coil and dehumidification. I suppose the lower face velocity of the larger coil balances the slighly higher surface temerature.
On the other hand, my old 8 SEER system was being supplied almost 500 CFM/ton of airflow and it still seemed to dehumidify pretty well. It's capacity was probably reduced as well from it's age, and the mismatched coil it had.
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03-11-2009, 11:06 PM #26
This might be a weird idea, but instead of a whole house dehumidifier, I wonder if you could use a heat pump to defrost the indoor coil on demand? I wonder if you could use the existing coil temperature sensors to do this? Or use the heat pump to add heat to the home when you've reached the setpoint, but you need further dehumidification. What issues would you have running the heat pump at high outside temperatures?



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