George - Write the letter.
You need a qualified inspection of the installation and components.
Or, I suppose you could let any warranty expire and not get any satisfaction. You may have multiple problems. Look at it this way- for as much as I loathe the service of this company and that they essentially R&D'd models in peoples homes I have one of these same models you have and I have to say it works and I don't have any of your problems. That points to installation in my mind unless you have a physical change/defect in your specific unit. Your exhaust fan needs to be check for proper capacity (speed). Your feed rate needs to be examined. The circulation blower needs to be checked...temperature rise across the unit....
BTW- extra surface contact on the snap disk is not the issue. Usually the parameters for that aren't that tight and it's setup so that if it's good and it trips you definitively have another issue.
Originally Posted by sysint
Well, the tech is coming back today at 3pm. We'll see what happens. I'm going to call Quadrafire or write a letter if I continue to have problems.
Thats a totally different problem, and the reset button has nothing to do with fixing it either. The reset button is the same as turning the stat down then up again.
Originally Posted by George0211
You are more issues and need a tech who knows what they are doing.
I see you are finally starting to leave the dark side (flat black)... Yes -- George seems to have multiple problems (now), and he just needs one good tech that can handle the truth.
Originally Posted by jtp10181
here is an update. The tech came back on Friday and said the problem with the snap disk was the wrong part. He said, the packaging on the snap disk must have been wrong, because the one he actually installed was the wrong type of snap disk. He explained that the snap disk#2 for this stove is supposed to have a limit of 250 degrees, the disk he installed had limit of 200 degrees and that's why it kept getting tripped. He swapped the snap disks and that problem went away. So that's good.
Now, for the problem with pellets not dropping on startup, he said it's probably because of that snap disk as well, which made no sense to me. So he didn't do anything about that. And over the weekend this problem has gotten much worse. On startup, the pellets don't drop, and the you can actually hear that the auger isn't doing anything (this actually happens every single time the pellet stove tries to start) The only way to get it to drop pellets is to shake the stove (go figure). After I shake it, I can hear the auger starts working. Also, this problem is also occuring during operation, not just startup, not every time but every once in a while, after the stove runs for an hour or so, it stops dropping pellets and the snap disk 2 is not tripped. The only way to restart it after that is to lower the temp so it stops calling for heat, turn the temp back up and shake the stove again
Any ideas why this could be?
I'm calling the place as soon as they open and this time, I'm telling them to either fix it for good or replace the whole damn thing, or I'm calling the manufacturer. This stove hasn't worked right since day 1.
Keep your suggestions coming, guys, I really appreciate them. And with your suggestions, I'm not totally clueless when the tech shows up or when I talk to them.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Bad wiring connection or intermittent short in the wire.
use systematic approach
Upon a call for heat, the exhaust blower runs for at least 4 min., the vacuum switch closes thereby closing the circuit that feeds pellets for 60 seconds and the igniter heats up. Once the pellets ignite, the thermocouple senses 200*F (3mv dc) and puts the igniter on a short count down and the pellets begin feeding at their set rate (hi/med/low). Once the TC reaches ~600*F (12 mv dc) the igniter turns off and the unit is up and going.
If you are not dropping pellets at startup without some slam dancing, I would connect my meter to the auger then make a call for heat to see if it is getting the signal. If not, Ohm out the vacuum switch to see what it takes to close the contact. You may just have a loose hose or electrical contact after all the fiddling around in there. If you are satisfied the vac. contacts are sound, the vac. switch is not faulty, the sensor hose and tap are not blocked and the vent is not clogged with fly ash/ obstructions, I would consider the module. It should make a call to drop pellets on startup only only the vac. switch has made. Also, check your door seals, firepot and air intake. Make sure you have sufficient pellets to form a seal in the hopper.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
Best suspect is in the vac switch system. Either the hose is plugged or the vac switch is defective.
Cracked hose is not bad idea to look for. Maybe there is moisture in the diaphragm, etc...
Anyway a good technician has a manometer and can tell you where the switch makes and put the manometer in the line with a temporary tee connection. Since you are looking for a technician in this industry go to Dwyer and download a couple pictures (the round one and digital) you can use like flashcards to see if your technician has one of those on the truck that he wondered how he was going to use it. Listen, I've got to level with you here... it seems like most of your problems are pointing to exhaust blockage or piping issues to me. I'd like to know more about Who Lets the Air out... who...
However, check the wiring. This unit has been poked and prodded more than normal. Let us know.
The tech is coming back at some point. I gotta call again and complain, the stove was completely dead last night and I woke up this morning to that room being at 50 degrees.
The vacuum switch was one of the parts the tech took out when he was at my house a couple weeks ago. He examined it and then put it back in. I guess it's possible he didn't put it back in right.
I'll keep you guys updates.
Again, thanks for your help.
George, I understand as much as anybody when a system has a problem that is difficult to determine. HOWEVER, the only thing you have is facts. Facts about things like:
Physically check for electrical shorts.
Physically examined exhaust.
Checked pressure switch. Switch makes at X" of WC.
Checked snap disc. Switch makes at X degrees.
Have meter on each component when the auger fails. FOUND unit tripping on X (disc-Pressure switch, etc...)
So George, do you know from the tech how long your exhaust is with how many elbows? Is the vent cap correct? Did he physically check these items? What pressure is the switch make/break at? Do you know for sure the wiring has been checked for shorts?
Think about it- you had a guy that already put the wrong snap disc in. How many other items is he not paying any attention to? --I'll bet that's a big number. You need a technician being a tech, not a parts changing tire kicker-- even if he is a nice guy. I'm sure he sympathizes with your 50 degree room. Problem is that the room IS 50 degrees. As long as he is in training on your installation, why not make it a whole day session. He can go over everything, give you a report of readings and tests. Make sure the guy puts the unit through three successful cycles (minimum).