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  1. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by david170 View Post
    The liquid line go straight to liquid head without any fittings after the liquid line filter dryer. and the inlet and outlet tubes have same size about the head, i think metering devices are embedded within each circuit of the liquid header, thanks!
    Yep.
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  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    The Hot South
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    Sometimes those orifices will get clogged up with wax. You can try heating them up with a torch to melt the wax and clear it out.
    The 2nd most important amendment is to protect the 1st...

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  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    SeaTac WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by R123 View Post
    Sometimes those orifices will get clogged up with wax. You can try heating them up with a torch to melt the wax and clear it out.
    I wish I would have thought of something like that that actually work for you?

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

  4. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekux View Post
    I wish I would have thought of something like that that actually work for you?

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
    I’ve never tried it because I only work on chillers anymore (except a few side jobs) but I remember a post about that on here a few years ago.

    Check out post 21...
    http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread....ogged+orifices
    https://youtu.be/3PGp8I4Mj1w

    Check out this YouTube video...
    https://youtu.be/3PGp8I4Mj1w
    Last edited by R123; 07-10-2018 at 10:50 PM.

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  6. #18
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    Jul 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by R123 View Post
    I’ve never tried it because I only work on chillers anymore (except a few side jobs) but I remember a post about that on here a few years ago.

    Check out post 21...
    http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread....ogged+orifices
    https://youtu.be/3PGp8I4Mj1w

    Check out this YouTube video...
    https://youtu.be/3PGp8I4Mj1w
    Sure beats trying to cut out those orifice Parts cuz that is a b**** of a job. I better do it a couple times it really sucks especially on the curious cuz of where they're at it's really hard to get to

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

  7. #19
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    Jul 2018
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    SeaTac WA
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    Definitely worth a shot and then install a crankcase heater according to Trane That's supposed to help alleviate the problem

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

  8. #20
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    Jul 2018
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    SeaTac WA
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    If that doesn't work it's only worth a shot and here's a video on that txv conversion kit. I would think this might work for other brands if you have the right tonnage of expansion valve

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

  9. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Los Angeles
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by R123 View Post
    I’ve never tried it because I only work on chillers anymore (except a few side jobs) but I remember a post about that on here a few years ago.

    Check out post 21...
    http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread....ogged+orifices
    https://youtu.be/3PGp8I4Mj1w

    Check out this YouTube video...
    https://youtu.be/3PGp8I4Mj1w
    i watched the youtu videos following your links, those are really helpful, thanks!

  10. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Los Angeles
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by thekux View Post
    If that doesn't work it's only worth a shot and here's a video on that txv conversion kit. I would think this might work for other brands if you have the right tonnage of expansion valve

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
    yes, you are right, i will try that, thanks!

  11. #23
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    Mar 2016
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    Pahrump, NV
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    Replacing a filter/drier with a 12 degree temperature drop would seem to be the place to start. If there is no TXV to test, or piston assembly to open to check for a clogged screen, incorrect or missing piston, then a lot of time could be wasted trying to check inaccessible orifices.
    It's an upside down world we live in.

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  13. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    SeaTac WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Goodman View Post
    Replacing a filter/drier with a 12 degree temperature drop would seem to be the place to start. If there is no TXV to test, or piston assembly to open to check for a clogged screen, incorrect or missing piston, then a lot of time could be wasted trying to check inaccessible orifices.
    Never a bad idea but those coils are notorious for this problem

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

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