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Thread: Compressor Burnout question

  1. #21
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    A triple evac is something entirely different.

    To properly blow out a system, you need to take things apart. For example, you don't want to blow through a metering device. And if there is an accumulator, that needs to be removed, or all the oil/gunk will stay in there.

    Like I said, to do it right, it's a pain. Most people who flush a system don't do it right, then other problems crop up later. On larger or split systems, it's a two man job. Or you get oil blown all over the place, LOL. Got a couple of stories there . . .


    Quote Originally Posted by Olivero View Post
    Ah okay, I will probably triple evacuate it as well as blow it out.

    Do I just hook up my nitro to one end and literally blow it out or is it triple evac style?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBeerme View Post
    A triple evac is something entirely different.

    To properly blow out a system, you need to take things apart. For example, you don't want to blow through a metering device. And if there is an accumulator, that needs to be removed, or all the oil/gunk will stay in there.

    Like I said, to do it right, it's a pain. Most people who flush a system don't do it right, then other problems crop up later. On larger or split systems, it's a two man job. Or you get oil blown all over the place, LOL. Got a couple of stories there . . .
    Okay cool, good to know that. What PSI do you blow through it? 100 PSI?

    I will see what the senior tech says tomorrow.

  3. #23
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    I usually set the regulator for around 150, then operate the bottle with the main valve. Pretty easy to control. Kinda start out easy just in case you get a slug of oil, then open up further.


    Quote Originally Posted by Olivero View Post
    Okay cool, good to know that. What PSI do you blow through it? 100 PSI?

    I will see what the senior tech says tomorrow.

  4. #24
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    Okay cool, thanks.

    That Tecumseh service manual is really good by the way, I am reading it now. Have had a confusion on the different types of comps and how they start for a while now, this lays it all out.

    Thanks for that.

  5. #25
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    Anytime a compressor is electrically shorted or open, I use one of the cheap 2 second acid test strips. I've had no reason to question their accuracy. If it tests positive, I put in some acid scavenger and an HH filter drier. I replace the drier with a regular one after a week or so and use another acid test strip. This method has worked for me.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olivero View Post
    So it has a start capacitor and a run capacitor. Did you check them? This spec sheet also gives the winding resistances you need.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Man View Post
    Anytime a compressor is electrically shorted or open, I use one of the cheap 2 second acid test strips. I've had no reason to question their accuracy. If it tests positive, I put in some acid scavenger and an HH filter drier. I replace the drier with a regular one after a week or so and use another acid test strip. This method has worked for me.
    Okay, that makes sense, I will have to get some of those.

    What's an HH filter drier? I just read the manual that BBerme posted, very informative. Do you ever install a filter drier in both the liquid and suction line? Seems like its highly recommended.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    So it has a start capacitor and a run capacitor. Did you check them? This spec sheet also gives the winding resistances you need.
    Yes sir, sure did. I mentioned before that the run cap was 15.5 mf when I measured it. The start cap was 98.2 and its rated for 98.

    From what I understood, wiring the hardstart in would save the run cap and act for it so if the start compoents were bad, it would then start the comp which is not what happened as I now have a new compressor to install.

    I will try and make it start somehow, I will probably take it back to the shop and see what I Can do with it. just for experimenting purposes. You know, science.. yeah... something like that

  9. #29
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    The very first thing you do is check for proper voltage at the compressor terminals when the compressor is under load trying to start.

    The next thing you do is put your amp clamp on the wire for the start cap. You should get something. If not, that is as least one problem.


    Quote Originally Posted by Olivero View Post
    Yes sir, sure did. I mentioned before that the run cap was 15.5 mf when I measured it. The start cap was 98.2 and its rated for 98.

    From what I understood, wiring the hardstart in would save the run cap and act for it so if the start compoents were bad, it would then start the comp which is not what happened as I now have a new compressor to install.

    If I do end up being wrong well then, that's gonna suck.

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  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Olivero View Post
    Okay, that makes sense, I will have to get some of those.

    What's an HH filter drier? I just read the manual that BBerme posted, very informative. Do you ever install a filter drier in both the liquid and suction line? Seems like its highly recommended.
    There is some debate on here about what an HH drier actually is. I was taught to use it when the system tests positive for acid. It's for system clean up, and has less moisture absorbing capacity. I don't usually use a suction filter on small stuff because you can't leave it in, often times there isn't room for it, and it's usually more trouble than it's worth to me. I know you're supposed to, but my method hasn't failed me yet. If it's a bigger system with a suction filter canister, I'll throw one in for a week.

  12. #31
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    Okay so I changed the compressor this afternoon, new filter drier, same type as what was there before. Didn't smell anything bad when I took it out, poured some oil out and it was very clear and clean.

    I now have it in my shop and I might play surgeon on it and see if I can find the exact reason. I will also ohm it out but since the oil and pipes were clean when looking into them, I doubt the lacquer decomposed and created acid.

    Weighed in charge and checked with True, said the pressure was right on so Its running good now, was 25* in the box and dropping when I walked out.

    14-15 PSI on the suction line, evap coil's like -24 or so. designed to be around 0 to -10 *F that's a 10-20* TD, seems good to me.

  13. #32
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    So you guys actually sniff the refrigerant to test the smell? Y'all are being sarcastic right?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #33
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    I remember on my first summer on the job (1974), I was a helper on a roof checking a package unit with a lead. I was kneeling next to him, he cracked open the discharge valve, shoved my head into it and said "this is what a burnout smells like- you won't forget it, right?" I didn't
    Experience is what you have an hour after you need it.

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  16. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulServiceTech View Post
    So you guys actually sniff the refrigerant to test the smell? Y'all are being sarcastic right?
    Why not?

    We use our other senses to see, hear and feel don't we? Certainly we can use smell and therefore taste too.

    Have you never smelled burned refrigerant? Have you never smelled rancid POE oil?

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  18. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    Why not?

    We use our other senses to see, hear and feel don't we? Certainly we can use smell and therefore taste too.

    Have you never smelled burned refrigerant? Have you never smelled rancid POE oil?
    While I agree using your senses is a nice thing and I use all mine when I can... but I'm not gonna purposely sniff refrigerant. Guys that's cancer in a bottle lol..


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  19. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    Why not?

    We use our other senses to see, hear and feel don't we? Certainly we can use smell and therefore taste too.

    Have you never smelled burned refrigerant? Have you never smelled rancid POE oil?
    A little Bacardi 151, and the taste goes away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I can't fix it if it won't stay broke..

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  21. #37
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    Lol, its not like we (as in me) takes a big ol' wiff of the system while its charged, the compressor was removed and its replacement in place and I smelled from the suction tube and then poured some of the oil out.

    I am sure you could probably try it while the systems charged, I just never did that, but I wouldn't think twice if someone told me it worked.

    Dude, its all causing cancer these days, refrigerant, brazing, welding, soldering probably too, even grinding your thoriated tungsten electrode for TIG welding is causing cancer.

    But if your smart about it, ya might just live.

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  23. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by baub View Post
    I remember on my first summer on the job (1974), I was a helper on a roof checking a package unit with a lead. I was kneeling next to him, he cracked open the discharge valve, shoved my head into it and said "this is what a burnout smells like- you won't forget it, right?" I didn't

    Haha, that's awesome.

  24. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulServiceTech View Post
    While I agree using your senses is a nice thing and I use all mine when I can... but I'm not gonna purposely sniff refrigerant. Guys that's cancer in a bottle lol..
    I believe you're more likely to get cancer from the food you eat every day that came from supermarkets or restaurants than you will for taking a whiff of refrigerant once in a while.

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  26. #40
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    I'll just stick to not sniffing and wearing a mask while welding. Sniffing refrigerant is the only thing I'll ever disagree with on this site. Other than arguing that putting thread sealant on a flare fitting isn't a bad idea


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