Furnace blower motor
I purchased a second house a few years ago and inherited two old oil furnaces and an oil hot water heater. I had hoped that I would have new systems installed by now but progress on the whole place has been slow.
The main heater is an Onedia Royal furnace with a belt driven blower. I have service contracts on all three -- The Onedia has needed it!
Two years ago my oil company replaced the blower motor with a 1/2 hp GE #4708. The service tech told me that the one he replaced was not the original motor. Last Sunday night when I went to the house I found that the motor had failed again
One interesting fact is that the service contracts do not cover any motor over 1/3hp -- so the last motor cost me $xxx.00 to replace. I did a quick check and the GE motor looks to be a rather basic and only worth about $xxx.00! I am a little concerned about having them install the same unit and having it fail when I am not at the house!
Is there a better bet for this application? I just spoke to the service department -- they are going to have someone call me. I wanted to know if I should go with a capacitor start or even one with ball bearings - the unit does run a lot and is always starting and stopping.
I tried to post a similar thread earlier but I don't see it??
Any suggestions for a more robust way to go?
No prices in post.
Last edited by beenthere; 01-20-2009 at 01:11 PM.
Reason: Removed pricing.
I'd guess the part about "always stopping and starting" is part of the issue(s). Also, any obvious restrictions that would cause it to run extra hard?
Would it be possible to slow the fan speed down so it runs longer, but starts/stops less often?
get someone with a better contract. i have never heard of that in residential.
May be too much motor for the air the blower wheel can move.
Tell them you want the size motor the factory tag list.
My house is a converted church - and the heating layout is very strange.
This main heater is large and does run run a lot -- often after the burner stops the fan will restart 3 or 4 times to take off residual heat from the unit.
And yes - I was not too happy about the 1/2 hp not being covered -- but I figured that this was not an issue any more because I replaced the motor! What really annoys me is that they charged me what I now know was almost $xxx.00 labor to change it out when I had a service contract. I was under the impression that the 1/2 motors were more expensive. I looked at the other heater and the 1/3 motor (covered) is installed the same way!
But at this point I need to get something more robust to take me through until I can replace this mess!
No prices in Post. Please read site rules, Thank you.
Last edited by beenthere; 01-20-2009 at 01:46 PM.
Reason: Removed price.
I actually have the the manual -- it does call for a 1/2 hp motor.
I know more about these old units than I need to
My current house had an old oil unit that had a 3/4 baldor capacitor motor with ball bearings in it -- I only know this because I still use the motor out in the shop to run a buffer.
I replaced that unit with a Bryant evolution on recommendation from this forum.
I wish I had national gas at this house!
We don't sell motors for the same price we buy them for.
The same as gas station doesn't sell you gas at the same price they buy it for.
Let them know that you think the ˝HP motor is not the right size motor.
I do understand the pricing of the motors -- and they obviously need to make a profit for the cost to carry and lug the parts around and obviously all the other items required in business today
But considering the service contract I think it was a bit much. This is not a comercial heater -- I think it is 125k btu
That is a discussion you should have with them.
Well, I had message when I got home last night telling me that the motor (1/2 hp) in the unit was a correct one they recommended for the unit.
Not the question I wanted answered -- or asked them twice
Something is causing them to fail!
1. Is the 1/2 is just enough under normal conditions and my installation is putting it over the edge?
2. Maybe the starting and stopping is doing it? Is a capacitor motor better for this.
3. Is the size of the blower and the resistance in my system putting too much stress on the bearing -- Are ball bearings better.
I think maybe #3 -- This motor had the front bearing fail.
I guess I can't figure out why it is so difficult answering what I view as a simple question. I have no way of knowing the quality of the GE motor -- maybe it is a very good motor and they never have any problems with them - but if it is just a replacement quality motor and better ones are available I would like them to order one of those and put it in.
Have them put an Amprobe on that motor to see how many amps its pulling while its running. If its pulling over the rated nameplate amps, then its too small for the job or the blower is set to run too fast. Overloaded motors die prematurely.
I presume they are using a reputable brand of motor and not some "made in China" knock-off.
Could be bearings in the blower wheel, or too tight of a belt causing the issues also, I worked with a guy that thought he was on a high horse industrial unit everytime he worked on an old belt drive, they need more deflection. Have them make sure they are ok too. Unfortunately the motor only has a 1 yr warranty(most anyway) Our service contract gets you 2 yrs on parts we installed(a gamble for us cause we eat the part after a yr) because we expect more than a yr out of the parts if installed properly.
You can't fix stupid
I actually thought that the belt was too tight when I took a look at the unit.
It was late (after midnight) and I only went out to the house because my alarm company called to tell me the temp sensor was indicating the house was too cold.
The motor bearing was tight -- I lubricated the front bearing to get it going and to warm the place up. I turned the temp way down to 55 and left - I did not have the time to have them come out and take a look -- and I knew the motor was toast.
Anyway -- They are getting me a different motor -- Hope it works