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  1. #1

    Dirty Sock Syndrome

    I know, there are other threads on this topic but I couldn't find an answer to my question in those.

    It seems that the best solution to the problem is to keep the coil clean. It is possible to kill most of the mold (or whatever it is) but maybe not possible to kill ALL of it. The way I see it a regular cleaning would keep it at bay. A good cleaning kills enough of the mold to stop the stink but not enough to prevent regrowth. Eventually it comes back, therefore requiring a thorough cleaning every few months.

    The installer is a friend of mine and he came to clean the coil one time. He's a good guy but getting him here is almost impossible. He didn't charge anything for the service. After he cleaned it the smell was gone for a few weeks but now is back. I hate to be a pest to him because he won't let me pay him but I can't stand this odor any longer.

    I'll to do it myself if I knew what to clean it with. I don't want to ask him because I don't want him to think I am dissatisfied with his service. I think he did a good job, it's just needs to be done more often.

    Is there any special product that should be used to clean the coil or will any anti-bacterial or mold/fungus killer do the job. I read something somewhere about using bleach, is this effective?

    Please don't bother with any warnings about getting a certified person to do this work, I can handle it. My only concern is using a chemical that will harm the coil.

    Thanks in advance for your help,
    Z

  2. #2
    Wow. You have to clean that thing every few weeks? I dont have an answer for your question but you should not have to clean that thing that often. The coil is defective like mine. Mine is brand new. First time I went from heat to cool, that horrid damp stench is so bad I am sick. I have talk to alot of people and many other new ones like this.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Coming to a town near you soon
    Posts
    762
    The only thing that gets rid of DSS is a specially coated coil. That’s the only permanent solution.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    240
    You don't kill the bacteria you simply prevent it from coming back!

    A licensed contractor is required to know this, Clean the coil and by the book, An ultraviolent light should be added to "Prevent" any further bacteria growth.. Does it work? I do not know! The books says it works.

    Also, Make sure your Unit is draining properly, "Not holding Condensate." If its staying to Damp, this could cause the problem... Make sure you use a filter!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    126
    Had a customer with a similar complaint. Installed a UV light kit on the backside of the evap coil. Odor was gone in a day and didn't return. I'd also add that you need to ensure the drain pan is sloped enough to ensure proper drainage. Any water left in the pan would be a great habitat to grow bacteria.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Waffleville
    Posts
    10,326
    it's called an ultraviolet light
    If Guns Kill People, Do Pencils Misspell Words?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=An2a1...eature=related

    Before we work on artificial intelligence why don't we do something about natural stupidity?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFl0n...ture=endscreen

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    The state of confusion
    Posts
    217
    We just had a customer with DSS who had replaced his coil with the coated coil 1 year ago. The smell is back.

    I reccomended the "ActivTek" "induct 2000" purifier to him. He declined due to price, and chose to have the coil replaced under warranty.


    I am not aware of any units that have this product installed that have DSS symptoms.

    I'm putting one in my own home this spring.

    If you choose to go that route, I'd LOVE to hear back from you a couple weeks after it's installed to see what you think.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    5,303
    For WSS, you need a periodic long term wet spot. Find it, clean it, and avoid days of wettness. This involves perfect draining and enough air movement to evaporate the moisture from the cooling coil and defrost moisture between cycles. Any spot that gets wet should have enough flushing from the condensate to wash dust down the drain. Continuous fan operateration will dry the pan and coil between cycle. Installing a ventilating dehumidifier with the air discharging into the coil area is another method of drying the wet spots after pools of water have been eliminate. Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    OFFICES IN : ARIZONA - NEVADA - TEXAS
    Posts
    258
    A UV light is a good answer of course , make certain you purchase the right size .. My friend once did a study for a publication when the WSS became popular in the 80's .. , it all started when it became evident on our building . His conclusion was coil clean with sodium Hydroxide or hydrofluoric acid , a UV light installation on the primary air handler, spraying the inside air ducts with Lysol or equivalent and using the fan continuance control during low consumption times..Once it starts its a continued effort to stop..
    "Rock-n-Roll " Ain't noise pollution..

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