Thats a great idea! Will be making some up in the near future for sure!
Originally Posted by mike400
I made a tool so one man could replace Evap. motors and compressors in System 3s. With no pinched finger, broken springs or scratches on the frame. tried to get the manufacture interested in it and they blew me off. Came up with a device that would catch you if you slipped and fell, while going thru a roof hatch. Made a ladder stabilizer, that attaches to the trucks roof rack for bad weather days when you have to go on a roof. Made a schrader core puller a long time ago, to replace schrader on charged systems. No one was interested. Back then it was just blow the charge and add new refrigerant, as it was cheap. BTW I could never 100% stop the stem from leaking, but it was workable.
We have made a economizer tester with a bunch of things from radio shack, and a small pvc box.
Ride hard on a Harley!!
i've made a duct ripper from an old flat head screw driver. grinded it down on a bench grinder. i use the 3 and 5 amp. fuses from a couple of old lennox units, and i haven't ran out of fuses yet. thats it for me
Originally Posted by merlin73
Now that sounds interesting
Got any more info?
Testing economizers usually take me awhile, I'd appreciate whatever you got.
If at first you don't succeed; charge, charge, charge again.
Originally Posted by madhat
Hey madhat, would you care to share your info on that ladder stabilizer???
Home made puller upgrade
Here are some little additions to my C&D Fan blade/blower wheel puller I machined. These work for those hubs that have the groove going around. I have one set that fit small 1" hubs like on an old small Carrier condenser that are too small for the puller as sold. The other set is for the fairly common 1.25" condenser fan hub. The puller is already made for a 1.25" hub, but I have had the setscrews slip a couple times on a really tight fitting hub. The parts I made are much quicker and hold better than the setscrews. I put the 1.5" collar over the "half moons" to hold them in. Wished it was an industry standard to put the the groove in all hubs....but that would be too easy for us.
While working on Trane roof top units i made a test box using resisters and a project box. I think Trane actually has a test box they offer their techs. Does anyone know? It is a handy thing to have. Being able to test each mode can make troubleshooting easier.
I think I have a potentiometer for that somewhere in my truck.
Originally Posted by aikenite
I work for Trane and just made one myself. Radio shack project box, aligator clips, resistors and an ebay 10 position rotary switch.
Originally Posted by aikenite
Trane parts may sell one though I've never seen one. If they do it would certainly be available for anyone to purchase.
I've also made a rack for my turbo torch that holds the hose, a striker and has a tube to hold brazing rod. Kinda protects the regulator as well.
A tool to lift compressors via the lifting tab on them. (Copied one they sell comercially)
A cart with wheels for my small oxy accetlyne set. Sized for a B tank and a 60 cuft oxygen tank.
A box for testing package equipment(Thermosat simulator) Hook it to the thermostat terminals and flip switches monted in a box.
135ohm potentiometer in a box with leads.
I had thought about using a rotary switch myself. I also made a box with leads and switches to run a unit remotely. What do you use the potentiometer for?I also made a box for a mapp gas torch and fittings.Sounds like you've made some neat stuff.
I sweat a cap tube on a body shop mini blow gun. I use it to blow out heating coils and blower wheels on VAV boxes that are almost impossible to get to. Made a plug in 24 vac transformer box with a 9 volt battery holder to test actuators. I've put spit on a single strand of hair and put it across lock boxes, unit access panels, breaker panels to see if someone has a key or is tampering with equipment. Found where someone was shutting off the dry cooler at the breaker panel, so they could go home early with pay. It was sweet when they got fired, since they were calling me incompetent for not being able to fix the HP tripping.
I got two boat railing "Ts" that were hinged, pulled my ladder rack apart and slid them over the tube on the drivers side. Took two pieces of 3/4 " Emt and bent two approx 45 on one end. Underneath the truck I attached two pieces of steel using existing frame holes in the frame centered about half way from driver door and rear of ladder rack. I spaced and bent them to the width of the ladder. I cut them off so they wouldn't project further than the curve of the side, but would still catch the ladder. I went to a job, position the ladder and cut the EMT so it would form a slightly raised "V" to the sides of the ladder. drilled the EMT so I could put a 3/8" AT rod thru a rung, thru the EMT and wing nut it to the EMT. I tighten the set screws on the boat rail "Ts" When I left I'd pull the Allthread, folded up the EMT, put the ladder back on the truck. Frame brace stayed on the Van. One of the other guys made one out of Square tube, hinged pin to the van roof cleat. (he didn't have a round tube on his rack) and the hook up to the ladder required two large hair pin clips. The important thing is to have the "V" from the VAN Ladder rack to the ladder be raised a rung or two from the rail height of the ladder rack, to deal with different terrian.
Originally Posted by Glenn Harrison
BTW the guy who did his with square tube was a lot stronger than mine, he also had a 42 + foot ladder.