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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    10

    New York Affinity 9.M Furnace question

    I have had this furnace for the second winter. It is hooked up to a basic Honeywell thermostat, not sure if a two-stage one. I have noticed this winter that the thermostat makes the clicking noise and the "Heat On" shows up on the thermostat, but there is a delay, sometimes a considerable one, before anything happens on the furnace (I'm not talking about the jump to the second stage, I mean before anything even turns on). Sometimes it gets colder than it seems it "should". I can override this by turning the power to the furnace off. After turning on the furnace power again, I immediately get all the heat needed.

    I will likely call my HVAC guy soon, but could anyone here tell me if something is really definitely wrong, or is the furnace maybe just trying to run efficiently somehow? Thanks much!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    8
    Basic thermostat? Non-Programmable......Programmable.? If the thermostat clicks and you have flame on the t-stat then your assuming the furnace should be on. Not to be a smart allick but you should call the installing dealer if you think you have problems. Is this a new problem or has it done this since the system was installed? If this is your second winter.....then when was it installed. Call the installer before any warranty runs out, if it hasn't ran out on any labor warranty. Our company gives 1 yr labor warranty unless additional warrantys are purchased.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by heatilator View Post
    Basic thermostat? Non-Programmable......Programmable.? If the thermostat clicks and you have flame on the t-stat then your assuming the furnace should be on. Not to be a smart allick but you should call the installing dealer if you think you have problems. Is this a new problem or has it done this since the system was installed? If this is your second winter.....then when was it installed. Call the installer before any warranty runs out, if it hasn't ran out on any labor warranty. Our company gives 1 yr labor on warranty parts.
    Thank you for your response. You're not being a smart aleck, I realize doing repairs is what you guys are here for! My orig. installer is no longer available as of today, so I wanted to get some basic idea what may be going on before calling the backup guy tomorrow. I realize the system is still under warranty if it's a major issue with the furnace machinery.

    This is a new problem just the past few days. The furnace is hooked up to a programmable electronic thermostat. Once the system gets into this "stuck" mode, I can try to turn the desired heat up way high (to 80 degrees or whatever), but again the furnace does not start up at all till I go downstairs and briefly cut the power to the furnace itself. (By the way, if in this "stuck" mode, I turn the fan setting on the thermostat to the "On" position instead of "auto", the furnace blower will start up, but not the heat!)

    The heat starts up and the furnace seems to go into normal, "unstuck" mode for a while, as soon as I turn cut power to the furnace and turn it on on again.

    Thanks again for your help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Gold Coast of Connecticut
    Posts
    4,547
    I think the unit has logic. If you have the thermostat set to 70 and do not touch it does it stay at 70? The modulating furnace will also keep running when the t-stat clicks off. It does not use just the thermostat to controll the unit. Set it and forget it unless the temp drops below the setpoint and it is not running.
    Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,824
    It does have a alogorthym.
    But, it won't prevent the furnace from coming on. Just controls ramping and weather or not if the burner should stay running after a heat call is terminated by the stat(54% of full modulation and above it does that).


    Call another York/Luxaire/Coleman dealer.

    Something is not right.

    Fortunately, the control board has a memory, that will retain the last 5 error codes.
    So the tech can recall them, and have an idea where to look for the cause of the problem.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    10

    Unhappy Update FYI.

    So, here's the update:

    Before the HVAC guy came, I figured out the error codes for the exchanger. Two red flashes, indicating the pressure switch is stuck closed.

    HVAC guy came, tested all other possibilities, nothing seems to help except trying to replace the pressure switch. Unfortunately, here in the Salt Lake area, it seems all of these parts are on back-order, and it will likely take weeks to get the pressure switch, which apparently is made in Portugal (?)

    Meanwhile, the old pressure switch is about failing, I believe. The furnace didn't fire successfully at all this afternoon, though I was able to get it running tonight with "CPR" of sorts, squeezing the tube between the blower and the switch during startup. Still, I'm bummed out! I probably should have gotten a more "common" furnace brand...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,824
    Did he check the trap for cracks.

    That trap can crack at the seam where the top is fastened to the main housing, and cause intermitant pressure switch stuck open faults.

    And you won't see the cracj because its at the seam. Have to apply a slight pressure to it to find it.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    10

    Another dopey question

    So, I am getting good at "massaging" the hose between the blower and the presumably defective pressure switch, first to get the burner to ignite, then to get it past the critical point after which the system stays on till finished. I now have what I call British heat (from the cheap B & B's I used to stay at in Britain). Turn heat up to 75 degrees. Sleep till you feel too cold, then try to turn on again.

    Here's my dopey question for the evening - please humor me:

    If I leave the fan "On" instead of in "Auto", would that be a good idea? Might it eliminate some of the pressure switch issues that come from cold startups? Just wondering, as I try to pathetically survive the weeks or longer till we get this York part...thanks and good night.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,824
    The indoor blower won't effect the inducer operation.
    So it won't help any either.

    Those pressure switches are pretty reliable.
    I doudt its the switch.
    More likely a trap problem.
    Either clogging or cracked.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Gold Coast of Connecticut
    Posts
    4,547
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    The indoor blower won't effect the inducer operation.
    So it won't help any either.

    Those pressure switches are pretty reliable.
    I doudt its the switch.
    More likely a trap problem.
    Either clogging or cracked.

    He could have used a universal until the origional came in if that was the issue. Where is the unit located? Basement?

    Where are you located, call another Luxaire, Coleman or York Dealer.
    Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    12,035
    You stated the furnace is in its second season.

    Good chance that this is an early production modulating furnace.

    There was an issue with the pressure switch calibration. It would close before the pressure at which it was supposed to close. Due to the on-board pressure transducer, the board will call the switch stuck closed.

    When you are 'massaging the hose' (that just doesn't sound right), you are preventing the switch from closing too soon.

    Anywho...

    The technician needs to monitor the switch operation while the furnace is starting. It's an easy catch if you T into the pressure hoses with a digital manometer.

    A pressure switch made within the last year will cure this issue.
    Perhaps you should have read the instructions before calling.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    10

    I am warm again.

    Switch has been replaced and I am enjoying heat! I thank all of you for your advice and support, it just helps to be basically aware of what the possible problems may be.

    Warm and system runs almost constantly since it's about 15 at night here in Utah. If anyone has advice on what CPH setting should be for a single-stage thermostat driving a two-stage York furnace (I set mine at 4), feel free to let me know!

    Again, thanks and happy holidays.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,824
    York recomends 6.

    I set them to 4 mostly.

    If you use 6, it shortens the burner cycle enough to keep it from going into the extended burner run until a much colder outdoor temp.

    Using 4, so it goes to extended run quicker, helps in older/drafty homes. To keep the drafts from being noticed as much.

    So, it depends more on the home and the person, then there being one ideal setting.
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