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Thread: reducing humidity

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    bigtime. OK, I see what you're saying. On that note, it would help to know how warm Nerf herder is keeping his home at. Both on the main floor and in the basement.

    If the temp/humidity gauge is right next to a crack in the wall, wouldn't the air be ultra cold? I wouldn't worry about it too much. Most people have vented crawlspaces anyways.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Thread Starter
    We keep the house heated at 70* upstairs as well as in the basement. We have a full basement with hot water baseboard as well as duct work for the heat pump. Sorry about that.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
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    This may be a little more than you need (want) to know. I am posting data from a home in WI similar to your weather. This home is hitting ideal %RH inside without any fresh air ventilation this weak. Just for the heck of it, I am capturing the moisture and heat from the elect. clothes drier. The home needs a little extra moisture during cold windy weather.

    Also includes is the CO2 ppm inside the home. This indicates the amount of fresh air the home is recieving from natural fresh air ventilation. Hope you can open pdf files. Just click on the pdf file name. It should open on most computers. Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Thread Starter
    Thank's Teddy Bear for the information, I am learning having a air tight house producing a whole new set of problems to solve. I am learning a lot on this forum from searching past topic on air quality. It's down to what mechanical device that will help with our house. Again thank's for taking the time from your busy schedule to to shed some light for a newbie like me.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerf herder View Post
    Thanks Baseboard Gord for responding to my post. To answer your questions, no we do not have a fresh air pipe on the return duct on our heat pump. I just got a humidity gauge a few weeks ago so I don't know what the humidity was during the summer months. Since the colder weather has arrived I noticed the humidity in the basement has drop to 60% and the main level is 50% now. Big deal huh. I plan to leave the insulation in the attic. We have no bathroom window so that leaves out leaving the window open some.
    Okay, I know I am late on answering this, but here I go anyway.

    A very tight house needs good mechanical devices and other necessary things to prevent humidity from hurting your home. Fresh air is always healthy.

    If your house is that tight, and you have to heat up your home in the winter, your humidity can rise. (Warmer air holds humidity).

    I know this from a building point a view, as well.

    Do not ever get rid of the insualtion in your attic. You need it, and you need to be sure there is a vapor barrier between your insualtion and your ceiling.
    You want to be sure that your heat stays below that insulation too. If you do not have them, install baffles in your attic. (If you answer, I will explain -they are inexpensive to install). You want the cool air along the sheathing of the rood to stay there. You do not want any humidity in your attic when you have that heat on. This is a big deal when you have a "tight" home. (mold, etc) I have seen what this does, and believe me, that is a big deal.

    You do need (like suggested above) to have bathroom exhaust fans. There are great ones called Whisper quiet (not sure I say what company) that hardly make a noise. Some of them are timed to stay on for a period of time after you leave the bathroom.

    A dehumidifier in the basement works great year round. I have one and it is set to go on and off when it read the humidity in my laundry room/which is next to another bathroom. I piped a hose that drains to the floor drain. This works, and helps reduce humidity all over.

    Again, cracking a window is good. If you notice the humidity is getting higher, don't let it go.

    The Hvac guys have great knowledge base on there trade.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks Cyberheat for replying. Yes I have learned that we have a air tight house. I am going to let the insulation alone and we also have a vapor barrier between the insulation and the ceiling. We also have baffles at the eaves of the roof. The later part of december and all of january the humidity level has been running around 50% with the best of 39% one day. The problem has been in the fall and I assume when spring rolls around it will go up again from what i have learned on here.

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