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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2

    Question Carrier 58PAV short cycle

    Hello all and thanks in advance for any help that you may be able to provide.

    I am a novice and will try to explain what is going on and see if you can help me out. I just bought this house and it has a 1995 Carrier Gas Furnace model 58PAV090-14 with serial # 1295A16944 and the heat pump is HA1CJ030A that won’t complete a cycle and it seems like a fan is running almost all the time. I had a guy come out for my annual tune up and he said that the 5MFD blower motor capacitor was reading 3.1 so I changed that yesterday. He said that the high limit had no continuity so I changed the t-stat. However, it wasn't as long as the one I took out (could this be a problem). He also said that the blower motor bearings were loose. He also said that the dual run capacitor was reading low (I haven’t been able to locate this to change it yet)

    Here is the sequence that I have found happens. This happens when I have the thermostat set or when I crank it up to say 80 degrees.

    ~A fan will kick on and run for a few minutes
    ~I hear a click and then the flame lights
    ~The flame may stay lit for a few minutes (1-3)
    ~Then a fan starts running
    ~Everything stops for a short time period and then it starts over again.

    The LED light will blink 1 and then 3, which is the 13 code. However, it then blinks 3 and 3, which is the 33 code. This code is for dirty filter (changed) or flame rollout switch is open or defective blower motor or start capacitor, or loose blower wheel.

    I would like your opinion on what it could or could not be. The house was really dirty when I moved in and I suspect that the evaporator coil is full of dirt, however, I just suspect this and don’t know that for sure. I took off the front panel and could only see the top portion of the coil and it didn’t appear that dirty (this is an upward flow type furnace). However, I have checked the temperature above the evaporator coil and when it gets to around 145F the flame shuts off. I thought it may be getting to hot and that was shutting it down, but the sticker on the furnace says that this shouldn’t happen until it reaches 170F. Do you have any suggestions?

    If you could also tell me were to look for the dual run capacitor that is bad that would be great. Also, I am thinking it may not be a bad idea to change the blower motor, however I am not sure which one is the blower motor. There is a fan motor above the flames that has a wheel on it that keeps spinning. Then there is a fan at the main bottom which I think is the blower motor but I am not sure. Or should I try to reset the limit switch? Or should I attempt to clean the evaporator coil? I hope you can help and I look forward to your reply. Thanks again!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    east kansas
    Posts
    8,032
    No DIY advice is given on this site.

    Might want to call the HVAC professional back to repair your equipment.
    Beware of advice given by some guy on the Internet.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    1,234
    You should not be messing with PERIOD!!! Gas furnaces aren't something to play with and if you're not qualified ( which it appears you are not) you need to call in a pro. If you had it checked by someone and they told you certain things were bad you should have had THEM make the repairs. Not trying to be rude but safety for you and your family should be more of a concern than saving a few dollars by trying to do your own service.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    257
    That shorter limit could be the cause of your furnace catching fire at a later date!

    Golan

  5. #5
    No continuity on fan/limit so you changed t stat, that will fix everything

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    2,876
    Quote Originally Posted by fleming6998 View Post
    Hello all and thanks in advance for any help that you may be able to provide.

    I am a novice and will try to explain what is going on and see if you can help me out. I just bought this house and it has a 1995 Carrier Gas Furnace model 58PAV090-14 with serial # 1295A16944 and the heat pump is HA1CJ030A that won’t complete a cycle and it seems like a fan is running almost all the time. I had a guy come out for my annual tune up and he said that the 5MFD blower motor capacitor was reading 3.1 so I changed that yesterday. He said that the high limit had no continuity so I changed the t-stat. However, it wasn't as long as the one I took out (could this be a problem). He also said that the blower motor bearings were loose. He also said that the dual run capacitor was reading low (I haven’t been able to locate this to change it yet)

    Here is the sequence that I have found happens. This happens when I have the thermostat set or when I crank it up to say 80 degrees.

    ~A fan will kick on and run for a few minutes
    ~I hear a click and then the flame lights
    ~The flame may stay lit for a few minutes (1-3)
    ~Then a fan starts running
    ~Everything stops for a short time period and then it starts over again.

    The LED light will blink 1 and then 3, which is the 13 code. However, it then blinks 3 and 3, which is the 33 code. This code is for dirty filter (changed) or flame rollout switch is open or defective blower motor or start capacitor, or loose blower wheel.

    I would like your opinion on what it could or could not be. The house was really dirty when I moved in and I suspect that the evaporator coil is full of dirt, however, I just suspect this and don’t know that for sure. I took off the front panel and could only see the top portion of the coil and it didn’t appear that dirty (this is an upward flow type furnace). However, I have checked the temperature above the evaporator coil and when it gets to around 145F the flame shuts off. I thought it may be getting to hot and that was shutting it down, but the sticker on the furnace says that this shouldn’t happen until it reaches 170F. Do you have any suggestions?

    If you could also tell me were to look for the dual run capacitor that is bad that would be great. Also, I am thinking it may not be a bad idea to change the blower motor, however I am not sure which one is the blower motor. There is a fan motor above the flames that has a wheel on it that keeps spinning. Then there is a fan at the main bottom which I think is the blower motor but I am not sure. Or should I try to reset the limit switch? Or should I attempt to clean the evaporator coil? I hope you can help and I look forward to your reply. Thanks again!
    You have some big balls my friend.....
    Do you realize you are on a site full of professionals here....we make our money and feed our families with this stuff?!?!?!

    You had a pro come out and instead of allowing the pro to do things properly.....YOU decided to just use him??? WTF??? He said this.....so I changed that???

    You're exactly the kind of person I NEVER want as a customer because I would bend over backwards for you and you would be screwing me every chance you get....

    Have a good one....hope that t stat helped....get lost....damn
    I need a new signature.....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    east kansas
    Posts
    8,032
    He is calling the limit a thermostat. Which it is, but confusing.
    Beware of advice given by some guy on the Internet.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Meriden, Kansas
    Posts
    435
    Please for your safety and for the protection of your property, Call a professional, explain the symptoms, have them repair it. You are in over your head, many things could go wrong if you continue to dink with it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    44
    Call a Factory Authorized Carrier dealer if you don't want to have an independent contractor do the work.

    You can get a list of dealers (some are 24/7) at http://www.residential.carrier.com

    From the looks of it, you are well out of warranty on that furnace, so I imagine you don't want to pay for parts as well as labor...but...

    For the safety of you and your loved ones, pay to have it done right the first time! Otherwise you will be paying more in the long run to fix your mistakes!

    It is impossible to troubleshoot via the internet, not to mention it is hazardous and just begging for a lawsuit if something were to go wrong...

    My dear brother-in-law works for Carrier, and he has to take calls all day from homeowners who don't want to pay a dime, all they want is the unit diagnosed and fixed with one phone call...

    I am a homeowner myself and I am not trying to sound like a preachy jerk, but you're better off having someone qualified do the work...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2

    Talking

    Wow, it doesn’t take much to get chastised on this site by a bunch of “professionals”. I didn’t realize advice isn’t given on this site. I thought it was a place to learn and get help and apparently that isn’t the case. The reason I don’t get you “professionals” to fix anything is because you think we consumers are at your mercy and I am not. The guy wanted to charge me xxx to change the run capacitor when it only cost me xxx for the part and maybe 10 minutes to change it. You act as if I screwed the guy that came out to my house when in fact I paid him 100 to come out and diagnose the problem. How did I USE the guy? I paid him for what he said he would come out and do. So, he got 100 for maybe 20 minutes of testing things with a multimeter that I could do and said that my furnace was junk and needed replaced. LOL, the “professional” said it was junk so that must be true. However, its 32 outside and 70 inside the house, but my furnace is junk. That’s far from me screwing him and more like him trying to screw me. Just because you “professionals” have most consumers by the balls you don’t have me and you never will.
    Last edited by Senior Tech; 11-25-2008 at 07:13 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,104
    Quote Originally Posted by fleming6998 View Post
    I didn’t realize advice isn’t given on this site. I thought it was a place to learn and get help and apparently that isn’t the case.

    Questions and discussions pertaining to HVAC for the home. No pricing, no DIY, please read Site Rules Thank you.

    http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=1241
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    17,955
    Quote Originally Posted by fleming6998 View Post
    Wow, it doesn’t take much to get chastised on this site by a bunch of “professionals”. I didn’t realize advice isn’t given on this site. I thought it was a place to learn and get help and apparently that isn’t the case. The reason I don’t get you “professionals” to fix anything is because you think we consumers are at your mercy and I am not. The guy wanted to charge me xxx to change the run capacitor when it only cost me xxx for the part and maybe 10 minutes to change it. You act as if I screwed the guy that came out to my house when in fact I paid him 100 to come out and diagnose the problem. How did I USE the guy? I paid him for what he said he would come out and do. So, he got 100 for maybe 20 minutes of testing things with a multimeter that I could do and said that my furnace was junk and needed replaced. LOL, the “professional” said it was junk so that must be true. However, its 32 outside and 70 inside the house, but my furnace is junk. That’s far from me screwing him and more like him trying to screw me. Just because you “professionals” have most consumers by the balls you don’t have me and you never will.
    You dont pay us for what we do, you pay us for what we know.
    Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people.

    Theodore Roosevelt

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Meriden, Kansas
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by fleming6998 View Post
    Wow, it doesn’t take much to get chastised on this site by a bunch of “professionals”. I didn’t realize advice isn’t given on this site. I thought it was a place to learn and get help and apparently that isn’t the case. The reason I don’t get you “professionals” to fix anything is because you think we consumers are at your mercy and I am not. The guy wanted to charge me xxx to change the run capacitor when it only cost me xxx for the part and maybe 10 minutes to change it. You act as if I screwed the guy that came out to my house when in fact I paid him 100 to come out and diagnose the problem. How did I USE the guy? I paid him for what he said he would come out and do. So, he got 100 for maybe 20 minutes of testing things with a multimeter that I could do and said that my furnace was junk and needed replaced. LOL, the “professional” said it was junk so that must be true. However, its 32 outside and 70 inside the house, but my furnace is junk. That’s far from me screwing him and more like him trying to screw me. Just because you “professionals” have most consumers by the balls you don’t have me and you never will.
    Fleming, I'm sorry you feel chastised and cheated. You came to this site for advice, and the advice given was that you needed a professional. None of us will make a penny from you doing so. Speaking for myself, First: I know your furnace is cycling on the high limit; which means it is overheating.. not a good thing for your safety; second I know that you have replaced the limit switch with one that is different than the original.. risky; and third if you don't know which blower is which then you surely don't know enough to recognize an unsafe situation existing in your furnace. If you had a bad experience with a previous "professional" please ask around and find a professional you can respect.

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