We carry 28 footers on the vans. Boss stepped up to 32 footers for tall roofs, but found they are not needed very often, and cause a lot of extra strain to those trying to maneuver them. We have a policy now where you don't use it unless absolutely necessary. I don't even have one on my van, just the 28. Those extra 4 feet are quite noticeable as far as weight and wind issues go when setting them up.
Originally Posted by mallron
We don't carry ladders at all. No roof access, no service.
Unless you did residential, you wouldn't have much work around here.
I have a 32 foot fiberglass, weighs a little, but I know it can handle me and that 3 hp compressor no problem.
Crazyest stunt I ever pulled was when I worked as a glass man. We had to change out a glass transom sealed unit( triangle shape double pane). The window was on the top of a picture window on the third floor of a condo. Facing the lake on a icy and very windy day in winter. We rented a 60 foot ladder as there was no way to get any type of lift down to the water front, and no way to suspend from the gable end of a steep pitch roof. The ladder had three sections instead of two, works the same with a rope to extend the beast.
We got it up, then used 2x4 and lag bolts to screw it down to the wood deck. no place to tie off above first floor. two guys on the ground holding the ladder, one guy inside the condo on a 6 foot ladder hands the unit out the opening at and angle so the guy on the ladder can grab it and set it in place. Then caulk it and screw on the stops. Of course we had glass cups on both sides to hold onto the unit. The glass was 5.5 foot wide and three foot tall. had to weigh 40 to 50 lb.
Guess who the lucky bastard on the ladder was
I r the king of the world!...or at least I get to stand on the roof and look down on the rest of yall
If you use the right ladder stabilizers, it won't slew from side to side and it will tend to grab a flat roof or parapet wall. The base should be tied back towards the building so it doesn't kick out. If you cannot find a purcase point to tie off, drive a stake into the ground, tie off then seal it when you pull the stake. Better yet, charge them for installing a proper anchor point into the building exterior. Ladder heels sliding out on hard pavement is one of the top industrial accident causes.
If you cannot do it right, then refuse to do the job. Its not only your right but, according to OSHA, your duty. If you get into trouble at work over refusing to perform an inherently unsafe act and they punish you, you can have OSHA intervene and fine them under the Whistle Blower laws.
In cases where you know you are going to return such as annual maint. contracts, include installing proper tie-off points top and bottom and paint a no parking zone in front of them.
I must admit in my younger days when I knew everything I have done that and worse. I remember when I was about 25 I set up a ladder like that and was well short of the roof line. I was supposed to wait for the maintenance guy to let me in to access the hatch, but I just couldn't wait.
So I set up the ladder, I was well short, so I just grabbed onto the roof edge and pulled myself up. Problem was coming down as I had to hang from the side of the building to "find" the ladder with my foot. Didn't think that one out very well.
Now that I am older and wiser, to all you young techs out there...dont be a fool!!!
Live each day like it is your last, for one day you will be right!