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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Amory Mississippi
    Posts
    1,002

    Trane Intellipak

    I haven't worked on one of these things in years. No documentation with the unit. (natch)
    CGAFC50EAEA10000000000000T0009
    #C01D48567

    It has been sitting for at least a year. The air handlers in the building are running. In the ceiling so haven;t been to eyeball them yet. Chiller in alarm and will not start. I bumped each contactor for condenser fans and compressors and they run when contactors are pushed in. There is plenty of gas in the system. The chill water pump was running and the system was pressurized I cleared all the alarm codes and reset the system and tried to start it. Lots of clicking and and clacking in the control module but no contactors pulled in and it went into alarm. "Manual Reset Compressor Trip Ckt 1"
    Same for CKT 2
    I didn;t have too long to mess with it today but i am assuming a flow switch or temp switch is locking it out. When I put it in the service mode and press "Test start" the relays click and it acts like there is a time delay and relays click some more. It does not go into alarm but no contactors pull in. When I checked the chill water pump the water was hot, probably 110 degrees or better. i am guessing manual or automatic valves are closed and the pump is cavitating. No disconnect and no way to tell where the power is feeding the pump. Tomorrow if I can't find a breaker or disconnect I'll just cut the leads till I do. The control panel said the chiller thought the water temps were 73 out and 75 in. Obviously a flow problem.

    This chiller has a single large circuit board. there are three connectors just hanging. not sure yet if they are for optional controls or what. When I get more time on it I will make sure I have water flow and if it dsoesn't start check each circuit.
    If the manual reset code gives anyone a clue to the actual circuit locking out the comporessors I would appreciate any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Anytown USA
    Posts
    2,060
    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrsquid View Post
    The control panel said the chiller thought the water temps were 73 out and 75 in. Obviously a flow problem.
    that could be just how high the sensors go. I saw the same thing on a york ycas chiller when the water was over 100, i forgot if the screen stopped at 75 or 85 but they were frozen at that temp until it went below that temperature. after that they were reading correctly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mixing oil and fire with a big spoon.
    Posts
    4,438
    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrsquid View Post
    ..."Manual Reset Compressor Trip Ckt 1"...
    means the high pressure switch tripped, the thermal overload inside the compressor tripped, or the circuit breaker tripped (aux relay on the CB monitors the CB trip). any single compressor component will trip the diagnostic for the entire circuit. i have seen the aux on the CB have a high enough resistance to trip the unit out even though the CB never tripped.

    good luck.
    How to make the perfect "Half-Hitch" knot or any other boyscout knot in 3 easy steps...

    1. Remove your meter leads from the meter and very carefully return them to their storage case or bag.
    2. Wait 2 seconds
    3. Very carefully remove your meter leads from their storage place and enjoy your new knot!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    243
    this may be a help little. If you can lay your hands on any Trane literature that contains the resistance,voltage, temperature chart for their 10K thermistor and have a good meter, you can check the sensors to get that question behind you.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    371
    First of all the saftey string has all the HPC, comp motor temp tstats and CB aux. They can be checked with a meter. There are also aux contacts on each compressor contactor that tell the module that a contactor has dropped out on a saftey. So
    1. check all safteys in the string.
    a. the aux on the back of the breakers do fail allot.
    2. make sure the compressor contactors are getting the 120v to the coils.
    3. The aux can be hard to check so you should replace if you suspect them.

    Good luck!
    By the way, I hate CGAFs!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    371
    Let me clear that a little.

    the aux contacts on the compressor contactors are in a circut by them selves. I think its called the saftey input on the wiring dia. The safteys drop out the contactors and the aux are suppose to tell the module that it happened.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Amory Mississippi
    Posts
    1,002
    Thanks guys. I'm goin g on vacation (woo hoo) when I get back in two weeks it will be the ol fluke meter and check each circuit.

    Yesterday I was trying to go through the diagnostics and the damn thing would not respond to the buttons. Is ther something that locks them out? I could only go into config. It would tell me "start in 5 seconds" but when I pressed the button to start nothing happened and noe of the buttons worked. I had to drop control power to reset. Is it possible the control interface is messed up. I hate pressing those bubble buttons and have nothing happen. you never knopw if it is the membrane or the electronis

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    371
    Cant remember if it has keypad lockout on that one. Will need to get the book. I had one act stupid the other day, it said there was another human interface on the string but it was not so. had to power up and down to get it to work. Like I said, I hate CGAFs.
    "Dying aint much, its living thats hard." (Josey Whales)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Amory Mississippi
    Posts
    1,002
    I found the IOM and programming manuals on line on the trane site. what I really would like to find would be copies of the wiring diagrams on the inner door. for instance # 2307-9042. I did';t see any way to find them in the literature area on the site.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mixing oil and fire with a big spoon.
    Posts
    4,438
    check your inbox.

    good luck.
    How to make the perfect "Half-Hitch" knot or any other boyscout knot in 3 easy steps...

    1. Remove your meter leads from the meter and very carefully return them to their storage case or bag.
    2. Wait 2 seconds
    3. Very carefully remove your meter leads from their storage place and enjoy your new knot!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Metro ATL
    Posts
    454
    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrsquid View Post
    Thanks guys. I'm goin g on vacation (woo hoo) when I get back in two weeks it will be the ol fluke meter and check each circuit.

    Yesterday I was trying to go through the diagnostics and the damn thing would not respond to the buttons. Is ther something that locks them out? I could only go into config. It would tell me "start in 5 seconds" but when I pressed the button to start nothing happened and noe of the buttons worked. I had to drop control power to reset. Is it possible the control interface is messed up. I hate pressing those bubble buttons and have nothing happen. you never knopw if it is the membrane or the electronis
    Check the ribbon cable going from the pad to the board. I have had several split and cause some of the buttons to stop working. I have also had the pins on the board get bent and break away from the board.

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