Originally Posted by itsiceman
Does that fall under Clean Copper ?
Where in south Jersey are you?
Originally Posted by james264
The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.
[QUOTE=itsiceman;2005051]Tru-apper must have not liked the way ice did it because you can get TXV's installed at the factory for a remote box and what's wrong with remoteing it underneath
I am more than confident we all know the expansion valve installation had nothing to do with the melt down.
Cases can be ordered with a remote system, and further you can use your own brand of condensing unit.
However, the factory should be consulted before taking on the task yourself. This is to ensure the case will still have the warranties intact, and the protection of the UL cert.
Remember, the compressor has a 5 year warranty. If you convert the case without approval, and the compressor dies in year 5 before the warranty is up, the customer may be responsible for the cost of the compressor as well.
I am pretty sure Ice knew what I meant because he mentioned that even adding the limit ON YOUR OWN is changing the design and engineering of the case, hence, you void the warranty and put yourself at risk.
I suppose my point is there may be someone reading this thread and thinking it would be a good idea to add limits and or change the engineering of the equipment without first calling the factory, this could put that individual at great risk of a law suit, even if the changes are for the customers best interest.
Just a thought to consider.
Originally Posted by coldcube
The TEV mod issue aside, the bottom line here is a service technician must always be aware that whatever he does in the course of repairing a customer's equipment exposes him to some degree of risk. If you're not absolutely sure how to approach a particular repair, by all means contact the factory for assistance and/or approval. This serves to help minimize that risk.
So don't attempt this at home, kids.
Oh, and BTW...
If anyone out there copied my pic of the GDM-72F wiring schematic for future reference, it's WRONG.
This case requires 230/115V 4-wire power. Everything is 115V except for the compressor, which is 230V. The schematic doesn't reflect that.
I didn't notice it until I rewired the whole top side after the "meltdown".
Note that the diagram indicates no supply voltage, so without further information, one would assume this whole system must be 115V...what with the black hot and white neutral.
There's one red wire missing between the compressor receptacle and the power plug and that white wire to the compressor receptacle should be erased.