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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.Virginia
    Posts
    87

    Confused Victory Freezer FAA-2D-S7 not cold enough

    Got a call from restaurant that their freezer wasn't cold. Evaporator totally iced.
    I thaw it and discover that the defrost clock (paragon 8145-00) not working. Replace it then discover that heat element broken. Replace it and the high limit switch and fan/defrost switch. Evacuated and put in 23oz of 404A as called for by manufacturer. Won't get below 30f. This is a double tube system. I'm pretty sure its not leaking. I'm going to remove and weigh what I put in to make sure. The condensing unit is filthy covered in grease. I cleaned it up pretty good. My next plan is to replace filter/drier. Any Ideas?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Haymarket VA
    Posts
    642
    Quote Originally Posted by kerreckt View Post
    Got a call from restaurant that their freezer wasn't cold. Evaporator totally iced.
    I thaw it and discover that the defrost clock (paragon 8145-00) not working. Replace it then discover that heat element broken. Replace it and the high limit switch and fan/defrost switch. Evacuated and put in 23oz of 404A as called for by manufacturer. Won't get below 30f. This is a double tube system. I'm pretty sure its not leaking. I'm going to remove and weigh what I put in to make sure. The condensing unit is filthy covered in grease. I cleaned it up pretty good. My next plan is to replace filter/drier. Any Ideas?
    wrong diagnose anyway all parts can,t go bad same time

    put something about your self what you do ?how long you been working in field
    new member i cant help .ask other pro

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Omaha, Nebraska
    Posts
    843
    When the box is running at 30 degrees with a clean evap coil (no ice) what is your suction pressure? Superheat? High side pressure? Need more info.

    I had a similar experience recently and it was a huge ice buildup on the fan side of the coil that I could not see until shutting off the fans and looking straight into the front of the evap. I think it was mostly caused by premature termination. BTW, no luck melting ice with a hair dryer. I'll have to use a torch I'm afraid.

    It does seem strange that the defrost timer would go bad at the same time as the defrost heaters.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.Virginia
    Posts
    87
    I agree it is strange that these parts would all be bad. The defrost element was actually broken at the wiring harness. I think the ice build up was to blame for that because it was wired tightly at that spot to the evaporator and the ice just pushed it until it broke. We have had a lot of thunderstorms and power surges.I have replaced a number of clocks that the timing clock itself would no longer keep time. It has usually been the solid state Grasslin clocks. I will post the more info a little later ..........thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    1,111
    I don't get it why did u recover and recharge if the problem was iced up from bad clock/heater?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.Virginia
    Posts
    87
    I recovered and recharged because the box wouldn't get cold enough and I wanted to make sure that it was properly charged. I have no way of knowing how much refrigerant is in it unless I know I put the right amount in. I pulled a vacuum to 500 microns before recharging.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Omaha, Nebraska
    Posts
    843
    Quote Originally Posted by kerreckt View Post
    I have no way of knowing how much refrigerant is in it unless I know I put the right amount in.
    I can always tell if a system is charged properly by checking subcooling on a TXV system or superheat on an orifice system. At least I can get it darn close. If your box won't go below 30 then something is waaaay off.

    I have run into systems like the Mitsubishi Mr. Slim Inverter Multi zone A/C system that require charging by weight due to the number of expansion valves, liquid injection valve, and variable speed compressor. Usually a simple freezer or cooler isn't that complex.

    If you have the time, charging by weight will remove all doubt but I am impatient.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.Virginia
    Posts
    87
    "Remove all doubt" that is exactly what I wanted to do. I 'll be going up there this morning....I'll report back what I find.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    392
    You did the correct thing by weighing it in. Now that you know the charge is correct, get some pressures and temps. Then you can see what the refrigerant is doing. Make sure both coils are clean clean clean. Door seals, people going in/out allot? all contribute to infiltration and moisture which can cause icing.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    San Ramon , CA
    Posts
    26

    Red face

    With an iced up coil we get little or no superheat. The compressor suction valves may have taken a hit of liquid refrigerant causing damage to the valves. This will result in reduced compressor capacity. If you have a semi-hermatic compressor the valve plate can be replaced. A hermatic compressor will have to be replaced. Pumping down the system will give you an idea of the suction valve condition, if the system can be pumped down.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.Virginia
    Posts
    87
    Well finally got to the source of the problem. It seems that the suction valves were bad (very low suction pressure). There were also small (very) leaks in the piping. Losing pressure over several days. Hooked up with copper to eliminate any seepage from rubber hoses. Sure 'nuff losing pressure. Replaced with new condensing unit I put together using a Danfoss SC18CLX.2 compressor.Replaced some piping. Held 200psi for 48hrs. Pulled down to 250microns. Charged until I got some frostback (double tube system). Running at -10F.Every bodies happy.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    465
    Everyone will be happy until they see the bill. LOL

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    392
    Charged until you got frost back ??????????? OUCH!!! You should charge until your subcooling is correct.

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