You can't make anybody on here mad thats been hanging around here a while.
SAY all you want,but your the only one getting upset.
It doesn't matter which side of the gauge you put the drier. The drier will be full of nitrogen when you open it. It will enter the system and become a noncondensable along with any air in the hoses unless you purge the manifold while connecting it.
Originally Posted by havactech
If there was any moisture in the system it would have combined with the refrigerant and oil and produced an acid during the first few years of system operation. This would have shorted/grounded out the compressor motor and you would have already replaced the compressor on an 18 year old system.
You don't have moisture in the system, if you did it would have killed the compressor by now.
It is your ac system and it's approaching the end of it's service life. Play with it, kill it and pay someone to replace it if you want. You can afford it. Heck, play with the replacement and kill it too. It's your system and your money.
The worst that could happen with playing with the refrigerant circuit is frostbite and dumping the refrigerant charge.
Just let me film it and I can document the occasion for the $35000 fine for each violation from the EPA. You make good money, you can afford it.
“I am for doing good to the poor, but...I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it. I observed...that the more public provisions were made for the poor, the less they provided for themselves, and of course became poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the more they did for themselves, and became richer.”
― Benjamin Franklin
I know all about purging etc. m-cooling I agree there are some very smart people here and I am not referring to them. Exactly how did I bring this upon myself? I asked a question and received some good advice and ridicule. I can't understand why people have to bash other people like that. Well actually I do understand why.
Would it have not been better to say its not a good idea and why it will not work as beenthere said. After reading his reply I could understand exactly the reason why this should not be done this way.
I just don't want to open the system and put in a drier at this time. Like you said my system is near its end and eventually I would install a new R22 or R410A System.
As far as venting lets not go there. I know there are tech's out there that do not use common sense to only vent in small amounts during purging. I assure you I follow the EPA guidelines.
Anyhow enough of that. For those who left a constructive response thank you. For those who had nothing better to say get a life cause its obvious that you are unhappy with this profession you are in!!
Again I ask, what brand of outdoor unit do you have?
If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.
Its a Weatherking 3.5 Ton. I was wrong on the amount of refrigerant . On the receipt for over 5 years ago they added 2 pounds, and noted the system held about 18 pounds.
I think they are off or my calculations are off?
On the name plate it sais 164 Oz for the outdoor section. On the plate it also sais to add the amount of liquid line accordingly.
I am not sure if this is a decimal or not? 0.6 and 0.4?
Add 0.6 oz per foot for 3/8 inch OD liquid line. Add 0.4 oz for 1/4 inch OD. My pipe measures 3/8 inch close to 1/2 inch OD.
Total liquid line pipe from just where it leave the outside unit to the Evaporator is 32 feet.
That adds up to just under 10 pounds total of R22. With a 2 pound leak per year that is about 20% for that one year.
If that is 6 oz per foot rather than 0.6 oz per foot, then were talking a little over 21.68 pounds. About 9% a year which is still not good but better than 20%.
I put in about 6-8 oz this year.
I also noticed the shraeder core may be bad because it does leak small amounts for a few seconds then it just stops so maybe over the winter when it shrinks a bit it may leak from there? The cap is on so not sure how much can leak from there with the cap that has an O-ring on the inside.
I have a core remover tool that will allow me to replace it without loosing refrigerant.
There was one time I was sure I purged the hoses and manifold but there could have been a moment I did not purge the line from the tank to the manifold. This is where I might have gotten the smallest amount of air in the system.
The head pressures seem fine about 250 PSIG and the superheat seems ok about 11 degrees.
What would the smallest amount of air in the system do? Would it be indicated on the pressure gauge or would a small amount go unnoticed for a short period of time then cause trouble later on, acid build up?
This is why I prefer to put in drier or just do as you say recover, evacuate , pressurize with nitrogen and look for the leak. I will eventually install a drier
Originally Posted by havactech
Your misunderstanding of how additional charge is determined. Is just one of many reasons we say people should not attempt DIY repairs of their systems.
Even the small things cans mess up a good system.
dirty wet freon at your place....
If it works dont screw with it!!
do you think dirt has gotten inside??
Just smile till it breaks....
My system..has developed a leak....now to fix my own problem...
where does the weekend go.....
Thanks beenthere for clearing that up. I am taking more advanced classes this winter. I have the money for a newer R22 system since mine is near its end. However I am not sure if I have the cash for an R410A system.
Since the R410A system runs under much higher pressure than a R22 system would there not be more of a chance for leakage over time?
I plan on practicing on my own unit and working part time for very small company. One of the tech's will be showing me tips during the procedure for recovery, evacuation and if needed pressurizing and leak testing then charging.
So if something does screw up at least its on my own system.
Like I said I purged the hoses on the manifold but don't remember if I purged the yellow one. Just the blue and red so there is a chance I might have introduced air from the disposable tank to the manifold?
Lets say there is a small amount of air. Air would be considered a non condensable gas correct? At what point would this air leave the system during recovery? In the beginning, middle, end of the recovery or would it just remain in the system? In other words this air can only be removed with a vacuum?
The air may come out during recovery.
But you would still need to vacuum the system to get the moisture out that was in the air.
this thread is so ridiculous it has to be fake! and btw loosening the red and blue hoses doesnt purge your manifold...and no part of recovering the gas removes the air...the moisture goes into the tank along with the refrigerant so your 22 is still contaminated...and moisture is not the systems problem it is the operator
Last edited by mechanicalgsxr; 09-07-2008 at 09:52 PM.
Then what is the correct procedure for purging the hoses and manifold?
I can see how the operator can introduce a contaminant but what do you mean by its the operator's problem and not the system? I have to disagree with you that its only an operator's problem. A Low pressure centrifugal system normally operates below atmosphere. Air can be introduced into the system without the presence of any operator!!