New HP in ~1980 home... Considerations and recomendations in hot and humid GA

[sakit2ya]

I am looking to buy a new heat pump for my ~1980 brick home. It currently has an older 3 ton unit.

Should I replace the duct work in a home this age?

I have decided I definitely want a variable speed air handler. I am currently debating if it is better to get a 2 stage or a single stage unit for the price. I realize you pay a little more for the 2 stage. I am concerned with efficiency. How do the 2 stage systems work compared to single stage in an area like georgia where the temp is routinely high 90's and even 100+. I was wondering if it would even operate in low stage very often.

The two systems I have been primarily looking at is the Amana 3 ton 16 seer Two Stage Heat Pump ASZ160361A and the
SSZ160361A/AEPF426016 - 3 Ton Goodman 16 SEER R410 Variable Speed Heat Pump Air Conditioner Split System. After a little research it really seems that the only difference is really the 2 stage and the smart tech module in the Amana.

Is it worth the extra money to step up to the Amana. In reality what would the efficiency difference be between the two? I may even end up stepping down a notch to the
SSZ140361A/AEPF303616 - 3 Ton Goodman 15 SEER R410 Variable Speed Heat Pump Air Conditioner Split System. I realize both Amana and Goodman are the same company now. I have read the Amana is a little better made as far as the cabinet and the noise deadening, and warranty.

Anyone care to speculate on real world efficiencies of the three units pertaining to cooling? I am only concerned with cooling efficiently really as we don't really use heat here in GA very often.

[dash]

Real world results depend on proper equipment sizing,install and duct system.

Get a load calculation done,you may be able to and attic isulation,window tint,etc.,and reduce the equipment size.


Two stage cooling with proper controls,likely an IAQ stat(prefer the Carrier),with that equipment,will lower the indoor humidity,and usually allows you to run a degree or two warmer and be more comfortable.

[sakit2ya]

What is the EER of this equipment? This is the real world efficiency right?

[dash]

Not really real world,tested in a lab under conditions you'll never see.EER is a simalar rating to SEER.

However it's an indicater ,relatively ,higher SEER should cost less to operate.

However if the system is oversized for the home,the ducts are undersized for the equipment,or poor install practices are used,your system will cost more to operate then it should.

[beenthere]

If 3 ton is the correct size.
You will be able to get lower humidity levels in your house from the 2 stage.

[skippedover]

You state that the temps are 90's and 100's all the time??? Do you not have days in the 80's during the spring and fall? You're quite correct that when it's up closer to design temperature the 2-stage will be no more efficient than a comparably rated 1-stage unit. But during those times, nights, seasons, when you're not near design temps, the 2-stage will be imminently more efficient and will do a better job of dehumidification under those conditions as well. You also state you're buying a heat pump. So do you go instantly from design cool to design heat? No in between days/nights?

EER takes defrost cycles into account primarily. That's why they drop the 'S' from the SEER rating. It's not a seasonal rating on a HP, except during the warmer months when it's operated in cooling mode only. That's why they give both SEER and EER ratings. EER is always lower to allow for defrost.

[beenthere]

EER takes defrost cycles into account primarily. That's why they drop the 'S' from the SEER rating. It's not a seasonal rating on a HP, except during the warmer months when it's operated in cooling mode only. That's why they give both SEER and EER ratings. EER is always lower to allow for defrost.

Not completely correct.

EER does not take into account for defrost.
Both heat pumps and A/C only units have EER ratings. EER only considers BTU capacity of steady state running.

HSPF(Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) allows for defrost cycles.

2 heat pumps with the same BTU output rating can have the same EER,
but if one has on demand defrost, and the other doesn't. The on demand defrost will have a higher HSPF rating because it doesn't defrost as often.

[Jack2007]

Real world results depend on proper equipment sizing,install and duct system.

Get a load calculation done,you may be able to and attic isulation,window tint,etc.,and reduce the equipment size.


Two stage cooling with proper controls,likely an IAQ stat(prefer the Carrier),with that equipment,will lower the indoor humidity,and usually allows you to run a degree or two warmer and be more comfortable.

I totally agree. I just had a Infinity 16 heat pump installed. Low humidity now with the "Edge" control. Very comfortable and although it is a bit early to draw a conclusion (installed July 30), my electric meter readings look good so far.
.

[kenny mac]

Where are you located.... maybe able to help you out

[sakit2ya]

edit sure thing beenthere... sorry about that.

[beenthere]

you can shoot me an email at <sakit2ya24> at <gmail> dot com

edit out your email address, they are not allowed in post.

You can put it in your bio.

[badtlc]

I can't say anything about your installer so I will just throw in my $0.02 about your equipment.

I just had a new Amana system installed on July 2nd of this summer. I also got the Amana ASZ16 (3 ton) and the AMV8 80&#37;, 2-stage, variable speed gas furnace. The two-stages are worth it. Once the sun goes down, my 2nd stage never kicks in. It makes it quieter at night.

My previous system was a 14 y/o Lennox heat pump. I have no idea what SEER, but my power usage has decreased about 20% (based on comparison of days with same high/low temps) with the newer system. My humidity levels have also dropped from around 55% daily to around 45% on days below 85 and about 40% on days above 85.