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Thread: trane setup ?

  1. #14
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    May 2008
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    43
    hmm beenthere do we need to know the distance of the 12" from the plenum
    to determine if we needed two 8" vents for one room? because if i understand correctly an 8" vent will give you more pressure but less volume. meaning the air of one 8 " vent will arrive fast but will not cool the room fast enough so if we needed to cool down this room quick enough because it is a long run from the plenum we would need two 8" vents on 8" flex duct to be able to get the volume the room requires ? so it can receive the air on time and cool it on time before the unit shuts down? am i correct, I'm not a pro but if this guy didn't do something right i need to know. i understand that visual is a big roll in this but the windows also play a roll and this room has 5 tall windows. beenthere if you'd like me to pm you let me know.

    thank you for helping understand this allot more. i need to be more prepared for the next unit. i always find forums too late to do some homework before i pay someone for something. live and learn. i didn't think i would find such a forum for hvac wish i had searched before i hired someone to the job .

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
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    You need to know how many CFM the room needs.
    A load calc would tell you that.
    Then all the duct has to be sized, to the restrictions of the run with the longest TEL(total equivalent length).

    The 5 windows are important, and so is the way they are facing.
    Thats why you need a load calc to determine how much air each room needs.

    A 12" may move the air slower, but it delivers more then twice as much air as 2-8" ducts of the same length.

    Trading volume for velocity is not always a good idea.



    Only pro members can use the PM feature.
    They did that so all can learn from the post.
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  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    43
    thanks beenthere i will see if i can find a load calc program or see if i can find out how to mak a load calc. one other thing i noticed is that when i kicked on the unit on thermostat it made some kind of little rattle in the low side pipe. this brings attention to me because im worried that maybe the welds might of fell through and causeing this rattle inside the low side line. i did notice that the old unit had a filter on the high side line. was i suppose to have a filter on the high side line outside at the condensor installed? like the old one. im not sure if a trane requires a filter on the lines outside by the condensor ?

  4. #17
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    Jan 2004
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    The condenser may have a factory filter drier iinside the cabinet.

    This is an easy to use load calc program.
    http://hvaccomputer.com/talkref.asp
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  5. #18
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    May 2008
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    43
    thanks beenthere i have downloaded the demo version and will try it in a day or two with exact measureings.

    beenthere what is the diffrence between these two condensors
    4TTR4042A1
    4TTX4042B1

  6. #19
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    Jan 2004
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    PA
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    The 4TTX4 is the 14i.
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    * Spine Fin™ Outdoor Coil
    * Full-Side Louvered Panels
    * WeatherGuard II™ Top
    * Baked-On Powder Paint
    * Corrosion-Resistant WeatherGuard™ Fasteners
    * Unique DuraTuff™ Non-Corrosive Basepan
    * Unique Mounting of Shaft Down Fan Motor
    * Quick-Sess Cabinet with Full Coil Protection
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    Plus, it increases the indoor units parts warranty to ten years also.

    The 4TTR is the standard 14 SEER..
    * Climatuff® Compressor
    * Spine Fin™ Outdoor Coil
    * Full-Side Louvered Panels with Baked-On Powder Paint
    * Corrosion-Resistant WeatherGuard™ Fasteners
    * Unique DuraTuff™ Non-Corrosive Basepan
    * Quick-Sess Cabinet with Full Coil Protection
    * Sound Insulator on Compressor
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  7. #20
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    43
    so basically there are the same unit but the 4ttx4 has fancy looks like the top black cover. thanks beenthere for your help im going to go buy another setup for the other half of my house but i still need to do a load calc. this guy
    upgraded my system from 3.0 ton to 3.5 ton which i really dont have aproblem with because the 3ton units had plenty of trees back then and now my house has no trees surrounding it because i had to cut them down due to rotten trunks. i have downloaded the load calc but havent had the time to do one im currently staying else where meanwhile i remodle the house with new units and some walls etc.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    43
    beenthere i tried the load calc program the free trial version spent some time with it and at the end it gave me results for ducts, heat gain heat loss etc. as trial version. any idea where to get a full free load calculation download just asking thanks again

  9. #22
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    Jan 2004
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    PA
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    NO.

    Got to pay for any that are good. And fully functional.
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  10. #23
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    43
    ok there are two options. one is like 40 bucks and the other is like 149 or something like that to get a full none expire key will it give me all the functions as if it were the comercial one etc. does it give you both comercial and residential for the 149 bucks etc.?

  11. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    43
    beenthere when my hvac guy started up the ac when he was finished he didn't have the lines between the wall and the outside unit insulated with that black foam etc. but i told him i would do it because it required a wall tear down partially to be able to insulate the 3/4 line. well i noticed that the drain was spitting out quite a bit of water draining on the drain,also i noticed the coil case sweating as well in the closet it was put in. now this closet was opened as well. i was going to enclose it and make a door for it as well because the new unit was bigger and wider we couldn't install it as it was. there was no room to do so. i tor down the wall to be able to install the furnace and the coil, and told him just to get the system running and i would repair the wall later. so i finally got to insulate the 3/4 line and put some foil tape that he left behind that he used to seal the coil to the furnace then added some white paste thing over the tape. well i resealed the 3/4 line and the 3/8 line because it was leaking the cold air through there not much but i just sealed it thinking it was best. well i sealed the coil and insulated the 3/4 line and now i noticed that my drain isn't draining much. it drains very little is this normal I'm assuming it was draining like crazy because of 3/4 line sweating. but im also concerned about my coil freezing up shoul it be some what wseaty? i noticed that the cas isnt sweating anymore eaither.also he installed a trap on the drain kind of like the ones in the sinks but with a breather closer to the drain pan on coil and the trap about 1 inch away. he said this will remove any smell or prevent faunky smell forming in the coil. is this true or will this breather infront of my coil be a problem ?

  12. #25
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    Jan 2004
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    PA
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    The vent blongs on the discharge side of the trap.
    It may be that the humidity is lower in your house now that the A/C has been running again.

    It doesn't take long for humidity to build up while an A/C is being changed out.

    The home owner fee I though was 50 dollars, and good for 60 days. I'm not sure if the higher price also gets you the commercial or not.
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  13. #26
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    May 2008
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    43
    so it should be the trap first being close to the drain pan and then the vent after the trap ?

    he has the vent centered over the furnace and the trap is hanging on the right hand side of the furnace

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