Return sounds kind of small to me. Is your return drop 10 x 18. Mine was 10 x 24 and was too small for my 4 ton.
Originally Posted by will_t_greens
Can you post photos of the return and supply ducts right at the furnace?
In the land of the blind.....the man with one eye is king....
TO small of ac system sounds like with the ceilings u have
An article in the July issue of Contracting Business would agree with you on this point, Darrell. Continual pressure to bump up SEER ratings, but no pressure to ensure installed systems deliver anything near their rated efficiency levels.
Originally Posted by udarrell
Here in Texas, electricity deregulation has killed any incentive for any one utlitiy to offer rebates or discounts for energy efficiency upgrades. In my area, most of the providers buy their electricity from the same source, sent over the same infrastructure. All they care about is selling kilowatts at a fraction per kilowatt less than the other guy. The wholesaler enjoys income from selling its singular product to many different buyers, who then option how far to mark it up for the consumer. Therefore, where's the incentive for a utility provider to approach its customers and say, "Hey, if you reduce your usage by improving the thermal envelope of your home, we'll rebate x dollars, since by you doing this, we won't need to build another power plant."
All the "works on paper" guys look for is a number to push through legislation. We would be better served, far better, by ENFORCED standards for the construction and mechanical disciplines in regard to energy efficiency.
"Return - 10 x18 running horizontally to reach return registers throughout house with an additional 3.5 x 36 in-wall cavity tied in immediately above the final vertical drop to the filter box attached to the furnace."
Wall cavities ,in our area,are often connected to some place outside the conditioned area,pulling in outdoor air.
Our current code prevents using wall cavities,but theres quite a few old homes with them and many are leakers.
I'd look closely ,at that return.Mirror and a flashlight might help to see if it's sealed.Plus checking the temp. of the air being pulled from that space,on a hot day,will tell.
Everyone Wins Bigtime When We Do Things RIGHT
Well,that is good news.
Originally Posted by shophound
Earlier today I sent an e-mail to my state assemblyman asking him to provide HVAC Energy Conservation legislative help & oversight on the county & university extension levels.
There is nothing, NO information, No availability of test instruments & no enforced codes. There are major problems in these areas that have to be rectified ASAP.
I need to do some research because I don't know if they need to establish an Energy Conservation committee in the WI legislature.
Every contractor that does things RIGHT will get a lot more business! When done right, the amount of energy & utility bill savings would stagger your imagination. Everyone wins when we do things right!
There is talk about federal proposals to raise the SEER Ratings way up again!
That could create some major problems for contractors, & users from an afford-ability factor.
I will leave to the rest of you, for now, to cite all the problems that a minimum of 20-SEER could cause us. For countless reasons that could cost contractors a lot of business & end up being a crazy nightmare mess.
Is there a link to the July article? I didn't see one, need to read that article. http://www.contractingbusiness.com/
Thanks a million for the info shophound. - Darrell
There's nothing anybody here can offer you except their sympathy. There are way too many possibilities to cover by mere conversation with you to give you any idea what the real problem might be. Without numbers there's nothing to go on. Period. Endless discussions about duct issues are pointless if in fact the problem isn't duct related. Could just be low on freon for all we know. Good luck.
You're correct if they are equal,no air moves,plus 100 cfms supply and 150 cfms return leakage would only show the 50 cfms,not saying you'd measure them,just less air would move.
Originally Posted by mark beiser
You test,then retest with return(s) patrtially blocked at the grilles,to see the diference.
100 outside and 80 inside is about what it's going to do in my opinion.....how many days are you at 100 in kansas?....i would think you needed a bigger unit if you want to keep it at 70 inside when it is 100 outside....
Sounds like the trouble is in the duct sizing and the fan speed. No way should the duct be sized for a 4 ton unit.
An energy audit was performed last week by an HVAC/plumbing company that offers the service. After testing infiltration, duct leakage, and completing a Manual J, they provided some results. They showed approximately 7,000 BTU of loss due to duct leakage, but about half of that leakage was in the supply ducts that leak into a conditioned space in the basement. They believed the return leakage was drawing some hot air from the attic space past the top plates and drywall since no caps seal the return air vents in the walls. My level of infiltration rated my house as "Loose". My AC is also undersized since the Manual J showed a load of 38,000 BTUs. With a theoretical rating of 36,000 BTU minus 7,000 from duct leakage, my system is doing no more than 29,000, placing me at a deficit. Infrared imaging also showed substantial heat coming through an east facing bedroom that is always much hotter than other rooms. The suggestions were for me to close the leaks, do what I can to stop the heat gain in the one hot bedroom, and at least replace the unit with a newer, more efficient 3 1/2 ton coil/condenser, but was told my duct was adequate for 4 tons but would would need a higher CFM furnace. I told him I was already supplementing with a 9,000 BTU floor unit in the hottest bedroom, but he said he would be hesitant to go all the way to 4 tons.
If that wall is a south or west facing wall.
Long term: Plant a tree on that side of the house to shade that side of the house.
Short term: Build a trellis on that side of the house to provide shade.
I am for doing good to the poor, but...I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it. I observed...that the more public provisions were made for the poor, the less they provided for themselves, and of course became poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the more they did for themselves, and became richer.
― Benjamin Franklin
Improve your homes envolope first.
Then duct system leaks.
Then you won't need a larger more expensive to operate A/C.