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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    to control your humidity you could have your tech slow the blower down a little and this will help get you closer to if not to 50 percent

    i would also recomend to set the pump lower to arround 25 or 30. You can dicide witch is better just by your own comfort

    if at 26 you are feeling cool air or the pump seems to be running way to long to be cost affective then set themp switch over point to 30 and so on

    you would think you should be able to lower te nozzle size a little without causing any harm as long as the tech sets the burner up properly and you can still get a good temp riase within specs of the unit

    oil goes by output only so you are putting out 145 btuh and you can control this by nozzel size

    has goes by input but seems this is canging also since we now size by the
    output rating


    i say stick with what you have and have it setup for max proformance and you may also want to think about an electric water heater they dont imo draw that much juice these days

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cedar Grove, Wi-Sheboygan
    Posts
    1,582
    Read thru all of this and no one mentioned anything about the duct work in the home. What did all the contracors you had in your home say about your ductwork since it is one of the most important part of the HVAC equipment. For starters did they say it was sized accordingly, or undersized for the size equipment oyu currently have. Do you have any or all rooms that are cold when others are warmers for vis verss ? What about the cold air returns in the home how mant and where are they located ? Is all the dusct work sealed and insulated ? Do you have any crawl space's in the home that are not insulated ? So all in all your equipment might be ok for what you have but I bet there's many improvments you can make on your own before you have someone come in and change out the old for new..... Just by sealing up your ductwork and insulating it can have somewhat of a huge impact on your equipement. I would call a few other contractors and ask them to give you there opinion on your entire system duct work included and then see what response's you recieve.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    54

    Thanks, Dan. I figured my issues would resonate as they likely affect many.

    OK, here we go:

    Quote Originally Posted by DanW13 View Post

    Read thru all of this and no one mentioned anything about the duct work in the home. What did all the contracors you had in your home say about your ductwork since it is one of the most important part of the HVAC equipment. For starters did they say it was sized accordingly, or undersized for the size equipment oyu currently have.

    Nobody said anything bad about the ducts, except I did hear I likely need a bit more return air. I am willing to remedy this as well.

    Do you have any or all rooms that are cold when others are warmers for vis verss ? What about the cold air returns in the home how mant and where are they located ? Is all the dusct work sealed and insulated ? Do you have any crawl space's in the home that are not insulated ?

    Nope. No issues here.

    So all in all your equipment might be ok for what you have but I bet there's many improvments you can make on your own before you have someone come in and change out the old for new..... Just by sealing up your ductwork and insulating it can have somewhat of a huge impact on your equipement. I would call a few other contractors and ask them to give you there opinion on your entire system duct work included and then see what response's you recieve.

    That's the hard part: Finding a contractor willing to do a real estimate. I started thinking I'd call 3-4 guys and be done with it. After reading here & seeing the need for a true heat calc, I soon ruled out those who wouldn't do one, plus the guy who wanted to clip me almost $35K for a "system 2000 boiler and 2 smaller carrier units. I didn't think I looked THAT stupid
    I am now getting yet a few more estimates to see where things stand, but am leaning towards doing nothing except lower the set point for a year & see how it goes. A new system could just as easily go in come the spring if need be.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    cincinnati ohio
    Posts
    2,024

    Oil

    I use to love working on oil But now 20 years later I see electric as the way to go . If electric is half the cost of oil than id swith it out and get rid of the oil . Bob h
    My avatar is a picture of a Goodman Silencer .....These were commonly used in Goodman country ....Photos by hvac tech ( PaysonHVAC )

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,538
    Quote Originally Posted by tinknocker service tech View Post
    to control your humidity you could have your tech slow the blower down a little and this will help get you closer to if not to 50 percent

    iys
    Adding a whole house dehumidifier is another way to get percise humidity control. You can have 50% RH during low/no cooling load throughout your home. Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Poestenkill, NY
    Posts
    769
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    Absolute B.S.

    An R22 HP with an output of 36,000BTUs at 35&#176; will heat the same as an R410A HP with a output of 36,000 BTUs at 35&#176;.
    lol - that guy's whole post was total BS. Sounds like he sells oil.

    I like option #2. New Heat Pump and New condensing LP furnace.

    I'm not too far from this guy geographically - and at the moment #2 and LP are about the same per btu (~$4.85/gal vs ~$2.99/gal, respectively) - so that being equal, get LP and burn it at 95&#37;+ efficiency. Switch the clothes dryer to LP - it's way cheaper than resistance electric.

    Also, the cooling load being so high - maybe there is a ton of glazing facing south? Maybe zero shading? Who knows - but I can attest to high latent loads in NY...

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    1,634
    Quote Originally Posted by hvacguru69 View Post
    This unit will not require variable speed and you be able to set change over temp for heat pump lower, down to about 35 degrees and get pertinant heat from it unlike r-22 that realistically can't heat your home lower than 40 degrees ambient.
    Um....hate to break it to you, but running R410A here, have electric resistance heat locked-out until 0F. Only got down into the upper 20's this winter here, but the heat pump easily covered it. I was a bit sad that there wasn't a decent freeze here to give it a real workout.

    Whatever you do, make sure your system has a demand-based defrost board and not a straight timer. The Goodman POS I had defrosted every 30 mins as set up by Chainsaw Charlie. Set it back to 120 mins after buying the house. The new Carrier Infinity HP I have probably defrosted a handful of times during the whole heating season.

    Also, your HP changeover point should be much lower. Even if the heat pump isn't capable of covering the entire load of the house at the lower temperatures, that doesn't mean it's not putting out usable, economical heat. Maybe some of the northern contractors could chime in about what they use for backup heat & HP lockout setpoints.

    Quote Originally Posted by hvacguru69 View Post
    I believe the propane will not deliver the comfort your looking for in the winter, and whats the point of higher effeciency equipment if you keep turning it up because your still cold and it runs constantly.
    I don't believe, I know you're wrong on this one. 1 BTU of propane heat output = 1 BTU of oil heat output = 1 BTU of coal heat output = 1 BTU of electric heat output. It's possible to heat virtually any structure with just about any energy source. It'd even be possible to completely heat a house with air-source heat pumps in the middle of Canada's Northern Territories, but it'd take quite a large amount of equipment. That said, they use propane, natural gas, electric, and oil in Canada.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bucks Co PA
    Posts
    364
    jws3
    I know we are miles apart, however maybe my situation is kinda similar to yours.

    I live north east of Philadelphia with a 2650 sq ft house 20 years old. Originally the house came with a 5 ton heat pump which I changed to a 3-1/2 ton straight AC. I have always had humidity issues. Just recently I had all new heat pump and oil furnace installed. My humidity now ranges from 40% to 50% depending on the weather and heat load.

    I can keep my temp a little higher now and it is very comfortable.

    I have the following Carrier equipment just installed.

    25HNA648A30 two stage heat pump (four ton)

    CNPVP4821ATA evaporator coil

    58VMR120-20 oil furnace with variable speed blower

    I noticed my unit runs mostly in 1st stage, and the blower is so quiet I sometimes go to the basement to make sure it is running OK.

    Just wanted to give my experience for comparison sake.

    Of course your house and original equipment is newer.
    .

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    54

    Thanks, Jack- Could I ask a follow up?

    Thanks, Jack- We are indeed fairly similar. Might I ask how much oil you have been using with this system? How bad is your electric bill? I suspect we are close enough that I could draw some general similarities.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack2007 View Post
    jws3
    I know we are miles apart, however maybe my situation is kinda similar to yours.

    I live north east of Philadelphia with a 2650 sq ft house 20 years old. Originally the house came with a 5 ton heat pump which I changed to a 3-1/2 ton straight AC. I have always had humidity issues. Just recently I had all new heat pump and oil furnace installed. My humidity now ranges from 40% to 50% depending on the weather and heat load.

    I can keep my temp a little higher now and it is very comfortable.

    I have the following Carrier equipment just installed.

    25HNA648A30 two stage heat pump (four ton)

    CNPVP4821ATA evaporator coil

    58VMR120-20 oil furnace with variable speed blower

    I noticed my unit runs mostly in 1st stage, and the blower is so quiet I sometimes go to the basement to make sure it is running OK.

    Just wanted to give my experience for comparison sake.

    Of course your house and original equipment is newer.
    .

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bucks Co PA
    Posts
    364
    Quote Originally Posted by jws3 View Post
    Thanks, Jack- We are indeed fairly similar. Might I ask how much oil you have been using with this system? How bad is your electric bill? I suspect we are close enough that I could draw some general similarities.
    My system is just one week old, so I need to go through a winter yet. Last season I used 517 gal of oil, but I had a propane fireplace installed last December and may have used the fireplace too much.

    I know it is early, but I am keeping an eye on the electric meter and it looks good so far after one week.

    I also had a propane tankless water heater installed last December which has saved me quite a bit over my former 80 gal electric hot water heater about an average of $70/month - using an average 7-1/2 gal of propane per month (tankless only) - three adults, clothes washer, dish washer.

    BTW, my electric bill for the month of June $475.
    .

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