to control your humidity you could have your tech slow the blower down a little and this will help get you closer to if not to 50 percent
i would also recomend to set the pump lower to arround 25 or 30. You can dicide witch is better just by your own comfort
if at 26 you are feeling cool air or the pump seems to be running way to long to be cost affective then set themp switch over point to 30 and so on
you would think you should be able to lower te nozzle size a little without causing any harm as long as the tech sets the burner up properly and you can still get a good temp riase within specs of the unit
oil goes by output only so you are putting out 145 btuh and you can control this by nozzel size
has goes by input but seems this is canging also since we now size by the
i say stick with what you have and have it setup for max proformance and you may also want to think about an electric water heater they dont imo draw that much juice these days
Read thru all of this and no one mentioned anything about the duct work in the home. What did all the contracors you had in your home say about your ductwork since it is one of the most important part of the HVAC equipment. For starters did they say it was sized accordingly, or undersized for the size equipment oyu currently have. Do you have any or all rooms that are cold when others are warmers for vis verss ? What about the cold air returns in the home how mant and where are they located ? Is all the dusct work sealed and insulated ? Do you have any crawl space's in the home that are not insulated ? So all in all your equipment might be ok for what you have but I bet there's many improvments you can make on your own before you have someone come in and change out the old for new..... Just by sealing up your ductwork and insulating it can have somewhat of a huge impact on your equipement. I would call a few other contractors and ask them to give you there opinion on your entire system duct work included and then see what response's you recieve.
Thanks, Dan. I figured my issues would resonate as they likely affect many.
OK, here we go:
I am now getting yet a few more estimates to see where things stand, but am leaning towards doing nothing except lower the set point for a year & see how it goes. A new system could just as easily go in come the spring if need be.
Originally Posted by DanW13
I use to love working on oil But now 20 years later I see electric as the way to go . If electric is half the cost of oil than id swith it out and get rid of the oil . Bob h
My avatar is a picture of a Goodman Silencer .....These were commonly used in Goodman country ....Photos by hvac tech ( PaysonHVAC )
Adding a whole house dehumidifier is another way to get percise humidity control. You can have 50% RH during low/no cooling load throughout your home. Regards TB
Originally Posted by tinknocker service tech
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
lol - that guy's whole post was total BS. Sounds like he sells oil.
Originally Posted by beenthere
I like option #2. New Heat Pump and New condensing LP furnace.
I'm not too far from this guy geographically - and at the moment #2 and LP are about the same per btu (~$4.85/gal vs ~$2.99/gal, respectively) - so that being equal, get LP and burn it at 95%+ efficiency. Switch the clothes dryer to LP - it's way cheaper than resistance electric.
Also, the cooling load being so high - maybe there is a ton of glazing facing south? Maybe zero shading? Who knows - but I can attest to high latent loads in NY...
Um....hate to break it to you, but running R410A here, have electric resistance heat locked-out until 0F. Only got down into the upper 20's this winter here, but the heat pump easily covered it. I was a bit sad that there wasn't a decent freeze here to give it a real workout.
Originally Posted by hvacguru69
Whatever you do, make sure your system has a demand-based defrost board and not a straight timer. The Goodman POS I had defrosted every 30 mins as set up by Chainsaw Charlie. Set it back to 120 mins after buying the house. The new Carrier Infinity HP I have probably defrosted a handful of times during the whole heating season.
Also, your HP changeover point should be much lower. Even if the heat pump isn't capable of covering the entire load of the house at the lower temperatures, that doesn't mean it's not putting out usable, economical heat. Maybe some of the northern contractors could chime in about what they use for backup heat & HP lockout setpoints.
I don't believe, I know you're wrong on this one. 1 BTU of propane heat output = 1 BTU of oil heat output = 1 BTU of coal heat output = 1 BTU of electric heat output. It's possible to heat virtually any structure with just about any energy source. It'd even be possible to completely heat a house with air-source heat pumps in the middle of Canada's Northern Territories, but it'd take quite a large amount of equipment. That said, they use propane, natural gas, electric, and oil in Canada.
Originally Posted by hvacguru69
I know we are miles apart, however maybe my situation is kinda similar to yours.
I live north east of Philadelphia with a 2650 sq ft house 20 years old. Originally the house came with a 5 ton heat pump which I changed to a 3-1/2 ton straight AC. I have always had humidity issues. Just recently I had all new heat pump and oil furnace installed. My humidity now ranges from 40% to 50% depending on the weather and heat load.
I can keep my temp a little higher now and it is very comfortable.
I have the following Carrier equipment just installed.
25HNA648A30 two stage heat pump (four ton)
CNPVP4821ATA evaporator coil
58VMR120-20 oil furnace with variable speed blower
I noticed my unit runs mostly in 1st stage, and the blower is so quiet I sometimes go to the basement to make sure it is running OK.
Just wanted to give my experience for comparison sake.
Of course your house and original equipment is newer.
Thanks, Jack- Could I ask a follow up?
Thanks, Jack- We are indeed fairly similar. Might I ask how much oil you have been using with this system? How bad is your electric bill? I suspect we are close enough that I could draw some general similarities.
Originally Posted by Jack2007