Originally Posted by Slatts
yes if semi boy otherwise i don,t realy worry about it
I'd only do it if the system had a gut full of moisture myself.
Originally Posted by sarpanch2001
Mistakes are a part of being human. Appreciate your mistakes for what they are: precious life lessons that can only be learned the hard way. Unless it's a fatal mistake, which, at least, others can learn from. Al Franken, "Oh, the Things I Know", 2002
maybe its just me but it seems like after a cap tube plugs once it most likely will plug again especially if its an older pos. personally i think the root of the problem is the cooked oil due to the dirty condenser or high ambient conditions. maybe im just lazy but i really dont feel like taking a fractional hp comp out and draining the oil. I wont change the comp every time i see a plugged cap tube but sometimes i feel it makes more sense depending on the age of unit.
someone correct me if im wrong but mineral oil causes wax and poe oil will cause carboxylic salts
Has someone mixed the oils in the system. I do know if you mix minereal and poe it will plug up a cap tube.
Originally Posted by refrigekid
replace all of the refrigeration circuits, or
change the cap tube (ya i know it's difficult)
change oil in compressor
use new liquid drier
slap a suction filter in
check every 24 hours to see if suction filter is clogged
pullout suction filter after one week
i am sure wax is coated in the condeser coil as well
and it's gonna get washed out slowly but surely
the job sounds like a callback waiting to happen!
do you guys usually change the oil on hermetic comps?
R134a and cap tubes can be a real pain. We work on a lot of True equipment- warranty. When the unit overheats enough to breakdown compressor oil, they usually recomend a new compressor and captube. I don't think your going to clear that crap from the captube, we tried RX11. It works well for cleaning the cond and evap tubing for oil residue, but the captube still had to be changed. Also make sure to drain the accumulator if it has one.
Yes. I have run across that too. I do not like 134a they never cool right unless the unit is in a conditioned space. Put it in a unconditioned space and they will hardly cool at all. Heard that someone on this sight changed over to hotshot or was it some other refrigerant. And the units would continue to cool outside with a faster pull down time. Don't know have not tried it myself. Sounds like I need to pull out one of the old units in my backyard and try it.
Originally Posted by frank slusher
Dixie-Narco has produced several types of units worldwide using 134a, and many are used outside to boot. Confusing?
Originally Posted by meoberry
"Fighting Ignorance since 1973 (It’s taking longer than we thought)." The Straight Dope.
I like this idea, cap tubes are used as a cost cutting measure, never did like the idea. I have replaced a few cap tubes in my time, but I like this idea. Place a liquid dryer vertical like a 283 and a sightglass after, size a TXV to the compressor. I tend to go with the sporlon TXV with a removeable screen, and a 3/8 ball valve after the sightglass should allow pump out to clean the screen. I can see it will have some carbon or oxides in the line after all this brazeing. I wish all units had the space to accomadate this type of retrofit.
Originally Posted by REEFERMAN4U
Lets see here by the time i'm done it should last a long time but the cost ??? Is it worth the cost of replaceing the entire unit ? I would look at the age of the unit, the cost of the materials needed, and my hourly charge out. You also consider the fact that i'm not looking at the 400 or so racks i'm taking care of during this operation ? I'll let the customer decide and charge them twice as much as the unit is worth if they insist.
I leave my 134a cylinders at the shop for auto only use. Hot shot or 414a is the best drop in for 134a. It floods back nicely and compressors love it . Besides it comes in a pretty blue container.
Originally Posted by meoberry
i keep a set of gutair wires handy.. i get a pulged cap, i cut 2 inchs off then punch the wire through, install new dryer, evac and charge... Usually cutting a few inches off will solve the problem anyways
Never heard of that brand. I found the problems start after the condensor gets plugged up. I guess the high temp or heat does something to the oil or refrigerant. I always believed that dupont shoved this stuff down our throats without proper testing. I don't even have the stuff in my personal truck. It runs 401a cools alot better. I am going to try hot shot in it next because of high head pressure with 401a.
Originally Posted by ckone180