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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Haymarket VA
    Posts
    642
    Quote Originally Posted by Slatts View Post
    kid, you got expensive habits.
    if you're worried about the oil, pull the compressor out, tip out the oil and pour in new stuff
    Slatts
    yes if semi boy otherwise i don,t realy worry about it

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    North Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    1,051
    Quote Originally Posted by sarpanch2001 View Post
    Slatts
    yes if semi boy otherwise i don,t realy worry about it
    I'd only do it if the system had a gut full of moisture myself.
    Mistakes are a part of being human. Appreciate your mistakes for what they are: precious life lessons that can only be learned the hard way. Unless it's a fatal mistake, which, at least, others can learn from. Al Franken, "Oh, the Things I Know", 2002

  3. #16
    maybe its just me but it seems like after a cap tube plugs once it most likely will plug again especially if its an older pos. personally i think the root of the problem is the cooked oil due to the dirty condenser or high ambient conditions. maybe im just lazy but i really dont feel like taking a fractional hp comp out and draining the oil. I wont change the comp every time i see a plugged cap tube but sometimes i feel it makes more sense depending on the age of unit.

    someone correct me if im wrong but mineral oil causes wax and poe oil will cause carboxylic salts

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    707
    Quote Originally Posted by refrigekid View Post
    maybe its just me but it seems like after a cap tube plugs once it most likely will plug again especially if its an older pos. personally i think the root of the problem is the cooked oil due to the dirty condenser or high ambient conditions. maybe im just lazy but i really dont feel like taking a fractional hp comp out and draining the oil. I wont change the comp every time i see a plugged cap tube but sometimes i feel it makes more sense depending on the age of unit.

    someone correct me if im wrong but mineral oil causes wax and poe oil will cause carboxylic salts
    Has someone mixed the oils in the system. I do know if you mix minereal and poe it will plug up a cap tube.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    11,347

    *

    JMO;

    replace all of the refrigeration circuits, or

    change the cap tube (ya i know it's difficult)

    change oil in compressor

    use new liquid drier

    slap a suction filter in

    check every 24 hours to see if suction filter is clogged

    pullout suction filter after one week

    i am sure wax is coated in the condeser coil as well

    and it's gonna get washed out slowly but surely

    the job sounds like a callback waiting to happen!



    .

  6. #19
    do you guys usually change the oil on hermetic comps?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    maryland, baltimore
    Posts
    135
    R134a and cap tubes can be a real pain. We work on a lot of True equipment- warranty. When the unit overheats enough to breakdown compressor oil, they usually recomend a new compressor and captube. I don't think your going to clear that crap from the captube, we tried RX11. It works well for cleaning the cond and evap tubing for oil residue, but the captube still had to be changed. Also make sure to drain the accumulator if it has one.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    707
    Quote Originally Posted by frank slusher View Post
    R134a and cap tubes can be a real pain. We work on a lot of True equipment- warranty. When the unit overheats enough to breakdown compressor oil, they usually recomend a new compressor and captube. I don't think your going to clear that crap from the captube, we tried RX11. It works well for cleaning the cond and evap tubing for oil residue, but the captube still had to be changed. Also make sure to drain the accumulator if it has one.
    Yes. I have run across that too. I do not like 134a they never cool right unless the unit is in a conditioned space. Put it in a unconditioned space and they will hardly cool at all. Heard that someone on this sight changed over to hotshot or was it some other refrigerant. And the units would continue to cool outside with a faster pull down time. Don't know have not tried it myself. Sounds like I need to pull out one of the old units in my backyard and try it.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    648
    Quote Originally Posted by meoberry View Post
    Yes. I have run across that too. I do not like 134a they never cool right unless the unit is in a conditioned space. Put it in a unconditioned space and they will hardly cool at all. .
    Dixie-Narco has produced several types of units worldwide using 134a, and many are used outside to boot. Confusing?
    "Fighting Ignorance since 1973 (It’s taking longer than we thought)." The Straight Dope.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    257
    Quote Originally Posted by REEFERMAN4U View Post
    I did this as well on an old case. Installed an oversized liquid drier in the vertical down flow position, this compensates for no receiver tank. .04c
    I like this idea, cap tubes are used as a cost cutting measure, never did like the idea. I have replaced a few cap tubes in my time, but I like this idea. Place a liquid dryer vertical like a 283 and a sightglass after, size a TXV to the compressor. I tend to go with the sporlon TXV with a removeable screen, and a 3/8 ball valve after the sightglass should allow pump out to clean the screen. I can see it will have some carbon or oxides in the line after all this brazeing. I wish all units had the space to accomadate this type of retrofit.

    Lets see here by the time i'm done it should last a long time but the cost ??? Is it worth the cost of replaceing the entire unit ? I would look at the age of the unit, the cost of the materials needed, and my hourly charge out. You also consider the fact that i'm not looking at the 400 or so racks i'm taking care of during this operation ? I'll let the customer decide and charge them twice as much as the unit is worth if they insist.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NE FLA
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by meoberry View Post
    Yes. I have run across that too. I do not like 134a they never cool right unless the unit is in a conditioned space. Put it in a unconditioned space and they will hardly cool at all. Heard that someone on this sight changed over to hotshot or was it some other refrigerant. And the units would continue to cool outside with a faster pull down time. Don't know have not tried it myself. Sounds like I need to pull out one of the old units in my backyard and try it.
    I leave my 134a cylinders at the shop for auto only use. Hot shot or 414a is the best drop in for 134a. It floods back nicely and compressors love it . Besides it comes in a pretty blue container.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    maine
    Posts
    788
    i keep a set of gutair wires handy.. i get a pulged cap, i cut 2 inchs off then punch the wire through, install new dryer, evac and charge... Usually cutting a few inches off will solve the problem anyways

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    707
    Quote Originally Posted by ckone180 View Post
    Dixie-Narco has produced several types of units worldwide using 134a, and many are used outside to boot. Confusing?
    Never heard of that brand. I found the problems start after the condensor gets plugged up. I guess the high temp or heat does something to the oil or refrigerant. I always believed that dupont shoved this stuff down our throats without proper testing. I don't even have the stuff in my personal truck. It runs 401a cools alot better. I am going to try hot shot in it next because of high head pressure with 401a.

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