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  1. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Amory Mississippi
    Posts
    1,002
    LOL itsiceman.


    I've seen one Hoshi where the evap separated but have seen about half a dozen manis where the grids came apart.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV
    Posts
    115
    Manitwoc is as good as Hoshi both good machines

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    cyberspace, FL.
    Posts
    197
    Mani' sm50 does do an eight sided " shot glass " cube. Way cool. Evap is tin! Cap tube 134-a refrig.

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    cyberspace, FL.
    Posts
    197

    Confused Mostly seen...

    on yachts, or by infinity pools.....

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    7,215
    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrsquid View Post
    LOL itsiceman.


    I've seen one Hoshi where the evap separated but have seen about half a dozen manis where the grids came apart.
    By me the hoshi distro has a whole wall of hosi evaps right by the front door ready to go
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  6. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    When the warranty call comes in it's really in a home "office" Right?
    Guess what stopped making ice last week?

    Power? Check. Light comes on.
    Water? Check. Cycle starts, valve opens, fills the tank
    Spray? Check. All four nozzles are spraying the molds
    Drain? Check. Poured a pitcher of water into the holding bin, pump starts and drains just fine.
    Compressor/fan? Check. Can hear 'em both running, fins not blocked or dirty, can feel good airflow.
    Molds? Um, Negative on the molds, Ghostrider. Molds are NOT, I repeat, NOT getting cold.

    Arrrrgghhhh. Same problem I was having with the Scotsman.

    On the bright side, I called the local service outfit and they were out to my house in less than 2 hours. Technician spent almost an hour working on the system, including some time talking with Mani direct. Diagnosis? "Bad cap-(something)" Not sure if he said tube or what, but would have to order the part. Not to worry, fully covered under warranty.

    Not a good sign. I only have 10 months left on that warranty, but, I went ahead and wrote the customer service folks at Mani and explained my story, and kindly asked them to provide me an additional year on my warranty. As you mentioned, not sure why the don't do this (2-year warranty) with residential units.

    And I still owe money on it, too.

    Oh yeah...For sale cheap: One broken Scotsman under-counter ice machine. FOB Alpharetta, Georgia

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    7,215
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
    Compressor/fan? Check. Can hear 'em both running, fins not blocked or dirty, can feel good airflow.
    Molds? Um, Negative on the molds, Ghostrider. Molds are NOT, I repeat, NOT getting cold.



    Arrrrgghhhh.









    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
    "Bad cap-(something)" Not sure if he said tube or what, but would have to order the part.

    Not to worry, fully covered under warranty.
    Two month old Cap-acitor not so much worry

    Two month old restricted Cap-Tube much to worry







    I have honestly never heard of this happening so fast on any ice machine by any manufacturer.

    Does anyone know if this unit has a "real" filter drier?

    I wounder if what Powell had mentioned to trippleD could be happening and the filter drier was responsible if it is a restricted cap tube

    What else could restrict a cap tube in two months light use on this unit






    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
    Not a good sign.

    I only have 10 months left on that warranty, but, I went ahead and wrote the customer service folks at Mani and explained my story, and kindly asked them to provide me an additional year on my warranty. As you mentioned, not sure why the don't do this (2-year warranty) with residential units.
    I don't know if you bought this over the net or local dealer but if this unit has a restricted cap tube at two months IMO they should step up and replace this unit and they should take it up with the factory not you. You did nothing to cause this.

    I've changed out machines for dealers for much less than a restricted cap tube.

    If someone doesn't step up shame on them



    Sorry Man

    THIS STINKS
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    regina saskatchewan
    Posts
    257
    I own a restarant and have a cornelius model 322.It is quite a few years old and has worked out really well,even with harsh water.Only thing I have changed is the suction line sensor.I'm very happy with it and would go with one again.
    Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

  9. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    Two month old restricted Cap-Tube much to worry

    I've changed out machines for dealers for much less than a restricted cap tube.
    Went back and read over the work order he left; it does indeed say "bad cap tube" in the notes.

    What's a bad cap-tube? All I know is the guy did not have one on the truck.

    What's involved in replacing it? What exactly is a "cap tube" and what makes one go bad?

    Is this some kind of awful thing repair job you never want to have happen, like back surgery, where you're never the same afterward?

    Or, in the hands of a good tech, not a terrible repair, and the machine will work as good as new?

    The servicing dealer has been so far so good. I work in a similar business where we rely on independent servicing dealers to do warranty repairs on our products, so I understand how it works. I'll be just fine if they can get the machine repaired and working correctly. I know in my business, a good tech can often spot and tweak a few things that may have been overlooked by the factory and improve performance. Not just do the repair, but go over the unit completely and make sure other possible trouble areas are checked. Of course, I could win the lotto tonight as well.

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    where the beer flows like wine
    Posts
    2,871
    The cap tube is a tiny little piece of tubing that meters the amount or refrigerant going into the evaporator, those things are prone to get plug up, sometimes it can be unplugged by blowing nitrogen thought it or applying a bit of heat but most cases replacement is the way to go and that’s one expensive repair.
    If I was in your shoes I’d take the mani back , get a refund and buy the hoshi.

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
    Went back and read over the work order he left; it does indeed say "bad cap tube" in the notes.

    What's a bad cap-tube? All I know is the guy did not have one on the truck.

    What's involved in replacing it? What exactly is a "cap tube" and what makes one go bad?

    Is this some kind of awful thing repair job you never want to have happen, like back surgery, where you're never the same afterward?

    Or, in the hands of a good tech, not a terrible repair, and the machine will work as good as new?

    The servicing dealer has been so far so good. I work in a similar business where we rely on independent servicing dealers to do warranty repairs on our products, so I understand how it works. I'll be just fine if they can get the machine repaired and working correctly. I know in my business, a good tech can often spot and tweak a few things that may have been overlooked by the factory and improve performance. Not just do the repair, but go over the unit completely and make sure other possible trouble areas are checked. Of course, I could win the lotto tonight as well.
    Replacing a cap tube involves recovering all of the refrigerant, cuting out the old tube, welding in a new one, replacing the drier or adding one if it didn't have one before, pulling a hard vacuum of at least 500 microns, recharging with refrigerant. When welding is being done the system should be connected to a nitrogen tank to keep the inside of the pipes clean.

    This a major repair and typically takes 4 hours or more to do if done right. Including the recovery and vacuum time.

    If a good filter drier is installed right in front of the cap and the system is evacuated to 500 microns (indicated on an electronic meter) then the system will function as new.

    If dirt, moisture, or wax has gotten into the drier to plug it then I would want a sporlan or comparable filter drier, not a bullet drier. The good ones look like a like a small barrel with fitting on top and bottom. The cheap bullet driers look like a piece of copper pipe that has gotten fat in the middle and has 2 or 3 tubes sticking out the ends.

    The question is where did the dirt, moisture (which freezes), or wax come from?

    The compressor could be throwing out small pieces of metal... NOT GOOD

    A factory weld could have left some debris in the pipe .. Should be ok after the repair

    Moisture or wax also would be solved by the repair with a good filter drier.

    If you can talk them into a refund/replacement in lieu of the repair this would be a good time to try it.

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    7,215
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
    The servicing dealer has been so far so good. I work in a similar business where we rely on independent servicing dealers to do warranty repairs on our products, so I understand how it works. I'll be just fine if they can get the machine repaired and working correctly. I know in my business, a good tech can often spot and tweak a few things that may have been overlooked by the factory and improve performance. Not just do the repair, but go over the unit completely and make sure other possible trouble areas are checked.
    Since I've talked to you last I'm on power searing pump #3 (loss of power/noisy)

    and on my third set of front and rear break pads (grinding)

    I would still buy another exactly the same since it is simply the best in it's class as far as I'm concerned.

    My feelings would be the same with the unit you bought.

    As Bob said I would also use a sporlan filter drier.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
    I may line the ducting with some Dynamat material to mute the fan/compressor noise a bit.
    This is a little worry some though. I would not think there should be any noise that you would notice as being noisy.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  13. #39
    Our story so far....

    After a week with no follow-up, I call the service company. After getting through to the right person, he response was "Well, I see that we ordered the part for it...and I'm not too sure if it was us or the distributor, but the order did not get processed. Let me get back to you."

    A few days later, "Okay, we will be out to fix it soon, and will call you to let you know we're on the way."

    After two weeks to the day of the first service call, I call the same guy back (this was today) and get his voice mail. "Please call me back to discuss how we can get my machine fixed soon."

    Two hours later, I get a call. "Hi, this is Bryan and I'm in your driveway. Can you let me in to fix the machine?"
    <arrrgghh>
    "Well Bryan, I am 15 minutes away. Hang tight."

    To his credit, Bryan had the part and dove into the work. Per the work order, he "...recovered refrigerant, removed defective cap tube assembly, installed new assembly and drier, vacuumed system and recharged refrigerant." The final note was "Please watch for 72 hours to confirm no other problems."

    The machine is running, and the spray water and molds are VERY cold. The first batch fell, but it was very thin (Bryan told me it would be).

    Fingers crossed.

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