Return air , wider is better but at what cost?
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 13 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    72

    Return air , wider is better but at what cost?

    I hope I upload the photo correctly...

    I tried to draw the arrow the wider return air is from rest of the house. The narrow return (top of photo) is just from one room directly above the photoed area. Does it make a big difference to rebuild this wider? I did not list price, but it can buy me 2-3 good Tstat :-)

    speaking of thermostat, I had done my search on this forums, the ones you guys install for variable speed are like a min-computer!! How could I know if the installer is doing it correctly. some of the HO are pretty good at listening and know when to ask question... for me if it still blowing cold/hot air I am fine with it. can I ask for installation manual before they install the tstat?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    72

    Arrow

    btw, this is old machine I am trying to replace. I was told by the home inspector it's 37y/o
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    428
    Yes it should be wider both ducts tap into that one in the small part that is not much more area than the top duct. and look at the flat blocked duct under it. also that unused coil can be taken out at the same itime to reduce restriction and improve static pressures. I would rework the return from where they come together all the way to the furnace.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,600
    have it all done when you replace the furnace new duct new t stat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    85
    Looks like you might need some chimney mods if you go with a condensing furnace. It might be cheaper to replace the water heater with a power vented type than do the mods.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Southeast michigan
    Posts
    93
    if you were to replace the whole system the contractor should make it right. if they just cap and tap then you may want a different contractor. always way options before spending hundreds of dollars on something that old

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,579
    That whole return drop should be redone.
    Also, is that a cooling coil, on teh return side of the furnace?
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Southeast michigan
    Posts
    93
    i was wondering the same thing just afraid to ask

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,579
    Don't be afraid to ask.
    Just worry about the answer.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    428
    looks like it was a hot water coil from the looks of the lines cut off behind the return by the water heater.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,579
    OK.

    But that whle return drop needs redone.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    72

    Thumbs up

    thanks everyone. you guys did pickup alot of stuff from far away good eyes some of the stuff you say here went over my head a little.

    The old coil by the return drop (?) is some hotwater thing the original owner had solar panel on the roof. But the previous owner disconnected it


    House: chimney mods, power vent? Not sure I want to replace the hotwater tank yet, is there a reason I should do it at the same time? Cheaper is good excuse, but I need to know why. We just moved in about two month ago, just setting in.



    knott: what do you mean "cap and tap then you may want a different contractor", I guess contractor will need to "rebuild" the return drop the same width all the way up to the top and to the right (where I draw the arrows)?


    Conclusion: The return need to be redone the right way! I will probably make sure it's in writing that return should be the same size all the way to the top ducts.

    thank you all, I will have more questions. I'll include photo, seem to work the best.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by Ohouse View Post
    Not sure I want to replace the hotwater tank yet, is there a reason I should do it at the same time?
    I've had to face HW tank replacement of my direct vented B&W recently and I would not recommend a direct vented model unless you had no chimney or some other limitation. The direct vented are 2-3 times more expensive, are more complex, can be difficult to diagnose and the parts are expensive. When/if you do replace it, go with a unit that has the thickest insulation (3 inches at present) and make sure it has heat traps. I think if you run the 5, 10 and 15 year ownership costs you'll find the upfront cost outweighs everything else (right now). Forget my recommendation if switching fuels (e.g., from oil to ng).

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event