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  1. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by badtlc View Post
    Out of curiosity, what do you do for heat right now? Do you not have a furnace?
    i can tell you that the system I have now is probably 15 years old! Anything at this point would be an upgrade. I believe it's a heat pump/ air handler system since the home is all electric. But it could be an electric furnace...i guess.

  2. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by ftwrtbuyer View Post
    i can tell you that the system I have now is probably 15 years old! Anything at this point would be an upgrade. I believe it's a heat pump/ air handler system since the home is all electric. But it could be an electric furnace...i guess.
    But rather than get sidetracked on the current system in the old house...It sounds like I should consider a heat pump sytem w/ an air handler...Which could very well function better than the two a/c system that has been recommended??? Of course, I'd need the load calculation for the house to verify, and will try to get...

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,371
    A heat pump is a good choice for efficient heating and cooling. Amana's heat pumps have good HSPF ratings in general. A load calculation tells you how much heating and cooling you need essentially (heat loss and heat gain). Heat pumps are typically sized for cooling with up to 25% oversize allowed in Manual J.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    81
    Ftwrtbuyer,

    I am just a home owner who built a house in north Texas in 2004. Dont make the mistake I made. First insist on a load calculation. I went with the HVAC guys word and it cost me in the long run. Long story short I had to replace my unit this year. I would be more concerned with the company than I would the equipment. After you pick a company I would go with the VS 2 stage heat pump. I went with Carrier and it has dropped my humidity and cooled my house with less electicity. With rates going up everyday in our area I would buy the highest SEER I could afford. I looked at TXU rates today and they are in the range of 17cents KWH.

  5. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by kkmcewen View Post
    Ftwrtbuyer,

    I am just a home owner who built a house in north Texas in 2004. Dont make the mistake I made. First insist on a load calculation. I went with the HVAC guys word and it cost me in the long run. Long story short I had to replace my unit this year. I would be more concerned with the company than I would the equipment. After you pick a company I would go with the VS 2 stage heat pump. I went with Carrier and it has dropped my humidity and cooled my house with less electicity. With rates going up everyday in our area I would buy the highest SEER I could afford. I looked at TXU rates today and they are in the range of 17cents KWH.
    I'll def try to get the load calculation from the builder's HVAC company. I'm def. worried about the same situation happening. I feel like the upgrades offered really are minimal, but I'm not an expert. That's why I turned to the HVAC Forums! If i can't get some of the things mentioned (ie. heat pump system w/ air handler, ect.) I'll prob end up getting option 2 since I may not have a choice...

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    81
    Quote Originally Posted by ftwrtbuyer View Post
    I'll def try to get the load calculation from the builder's HVAC company. I'm def. worried about the same situation happening. I feel like the upgrades offered really are minimal, but I'm not an expert. That's why I turned to the HVAC Forums! If i can't get some of the things mentioned (ie. heat pump system w/ air handler, ect.) I'll prob end up getting option 2 since I may not have a choice...
    I didnt get the load test and my unit was to large. It would short cylce and not remove any humidity. In the long run it cost me higher electic bills and I had to replace it four years later. If I had it to do again I would go with a reputable company that I felt good with. Make sure they show you the load test and that they will make it right.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Burleson, Texas
    Posts
    1,741
    ftwrtbuyer.......Im in the FtW area, if you need anything, email me....in profile

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    TEXAS
    Posts
    1,701
    don't get to comfortable with the idea that in the future equipment costs will go down. even if that happens (which is doubtful) energy prices could be wayyyy higher! get the most efficiency you can afford and if energy prices go up you are ahead of the curve.
    "When the people find they can vote themselves money,that will herald the end of the republic" - Benjamin Franklin

    "Government is not reason, it is not eloquence, it is force;like fire, a troublesome servant and a fearful master. Never for a moment should it be left to irresponsible action"- George Washington

  9. #22
    Ok. I got the model numbers for the various options...For opt. 1 the A/C unit is a GSC14, option 3 adds the Amana AMV8, and option 4 adds a SSX 16...Any compelling arguments for going up on the option levels based on this information? I asked about the Load Calculations, and was told that the information is calculated by the corporate office, which determines the system type. As far as a heat pump/air handler system, I was told that because the community has gas, they use a furnace, but that the furnace is the blower, and will essential work as an air handling system...Any thoughts? Thanx all!

    Also, I went to the Goodman site, and saw a SSX 14 which uses the new refrigerant, should I try for that instead of the GSC14 if I have to go that option?

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    551
    Quote Originally Posted by ftwrtbuyer View Post
    Ok. I got the model numbers for the various options...For opt. 1 the A/C unit is a GSC14, option 3 adds the Amana AMV8, and option 4 adds a SSX 16...Any compelling arguments for going up on the option levels based on this information? I asked about the Load Calculations, and was told that the information is calculated by the corporate office, which determines the system type. As far as a heat pump/air handler system, I was told that because the community has gas, they use a furnace, but that the furnace is the blower, and will essential work as an air handling system...Any thoughts? Thanx all!

    Also, I went to the Goodman site, and saw a SSX 14 which uses the new refrigerant, should I try for that instead of the GSC14 if I have to go that option?

    I can't recommend what is best for you but I can verify that the AMV8 will serve as both gas heat (either primary or AUX) and will also serve as the air handler for the HP or A/C. I have the AMV8 and I really like it. It is quiet and very adjustable depending on your needs. Where you are, if you go heat pump, your AMV8 would be providing very little heat during the winter.

    Like I said before, I cannot comment on what is the best financial choice for you, but the ASZ16 and AMV8 will provide you a nice, quiet, and very comfortable house. I'm not recommending it over the other options. I'm just saying I really like it and can't say anything bad about the system.

  11. #24
    After plenty of research and switching back and forth between my options...I've decided to go w/ the 2nd level. The 14 SEER Goodman condenser/furnace/coil system w/ the IAQ media filter and Honeywell T8000 t-stat. I've come to this conclusion because...The 14 SEER Goodman condenser/furnace/coil is being supplied by the builder at no extra cost to me, and I feel that the system would do well to have at the very least the upgraded t-stat and IAQ...It's a cheap addition, so why not. Also, from reading numerous threads, one single theme seems to hold true: the sytem itself is not as important as the contractor who installs it...And since I am limited to the builders HVAC contractor, and cannot verify the workmanship that will be utlized in developing my home system; I feel that I'd rather go the free route, and find out I need to upgrade/fix my system later due to potentially poor workmanship, rather than spending $$$ now to find out it was installed improperly later. The best system in the world will perform poorly if not installed properly...

    Simply put, if the install is emaculate, then the system should work perfectly for my needs, and last 10-15 years before needing to be replaced by the r410a standard. If the install fails in any way over the next few years, I won't feel like I threw my money away to a contractor I had no choice in using. I'll be able, at that point, to find multiple contractors, compare quotes, refrences, ect. and ultimately get the service I choose to pay the extra money for knowing then that its money well spent.

    Thanx to everyone for your input on this matter. Hopefully, everything turns out fine...I'll keep y'all posted.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,915
    Whatever outdoor units you decide to go with, absolutely go with variable speed blowers in the indoor equipment, definitely worth it.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,637
    If this home is not a leaker, I suggest a provision for fresh air be made. At a minimum, you need a 100 cfm of fresh air in this home to purge indoor pollutants when you are present. You should also have a way to keep the home dry during wet cool weather. The simplest method to do this is a ventilating dehumidifier. Most posters on this site avoid fresh air because of the difficulty of maintaining <50%RH during wet, cool weather. They do not realize the long term health effects of living in pollutant loaded air. ASHRAE, American Lung Ass. and the EPA are suggesting fresh air ventilation for these much tighter new homes. Disregard in not interested. Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

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