I just went Heat Pump / Duel Fuel on Long Island
The old AC unit was on its last legs. The Heat Pump did not cost much more than a new A/C unit. You will need to spring for a new coil either way and it is well worth it.
I am very happy. The house has been the coolest it has ever been this summer and I am stoked about not having to buy Oil this winter. My oil burner will only be kicking in at 20* or colder (COP will be about 2.49 at 20*) otherwise the HP will do the job. With oil at these levels I could save as much as 1,200 a year, even at 21 cents per KWH that LIPA is jamming us for out on the Island.
Like beenthere said "You will be starting a trend in your neighbor hood.”
When I tell people I am almost totally off oil their eyes go wide.
The right to brag about your new heating system is not a reason to buy a new system, but I tell you, people will think you are the sharpest home owner in all the land.
Of course the guys on this site will always think we are just knuckle head home owners. Tough but fair…
Keep these guys on the site up to date with the work that goes on. This site saved me huge when the installers tried to use a closed coil as a transition elbow – UGLY. They came back and did the right thing, this site was the 1st line for defense from getting shafted.
Best of luck.
From Goodman's web site for my 3 ton (36,000 btu) R22 heat pump:
"Delta T" means the difference in temperature before/after the indoor coil (based on 70F indoor). Example: At 35F ambient, the air temp after the indoor coil would be 95F (70 + 25). Your hands are about 91F, so any temp colder than that will feel cool.
In your climate, heating btu's are very important. Make sure that the system you select (condenser + coil) has full btu's at the rated ambient temp of 47F. Anotherwords, a 3-ton system should have 36,000 btu's and not 32,000. Some system combinations are weak on heating btu's.
Also, you want as close to 9 HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) and 12 EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) as you can get. The HSPF is the winter equivalent of SEER. EER is the energy effieciency in cooling without the "seasonal" bullsh%t.
You can use your existing oil furnace as back-up/auxillary heat to your heat pump.
Best to you.
Last edited by gary_g; 07-21-2008 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: added website address
This page will give you a good primer on what balance point is and other concepts.
Not mentioned so far is that upon installation of your heat pump you will get a new two stage digital thermostat that will control both your existing furnace and the new heat pump. If the heat can't keep up with demand (temp falls off by say more than 2 degrees F for instance) your supplemental heat will kick in. The stat may even have a lockout temp below which it won't even bother to run the heat pump.
Regardless, you will be saving money all the way down to those lower temps.
I have a funny feeling when you start talking to your neighbors about HPs they will have that deer caught in the headlights look. It just doesn't get much press in New York (right now). Enjoy your 15 minutes of limelight as the smartest guy on the block.
I lived in upstate NY for many years before moving south. I installed a Heat pump in my own home in the late eighties. I know they are more efficient today than they were back then. The heat pump worked fairly well until the ambient temp dropped below 35. I would recommend installing one but just pay a lot of attention to all of your utility rates. You will definitely need something to supplement your heat pump on colder days. Running your compressor will increase your electric bill and depending on what happens with energy prices some other means could be cheaper next year. I used forced hot air oil fired heat when I didn't use the heat pump. Be sure you get the correct size.