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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    5

    Desuperheater Tranquility 27 problem

    Hello all,

    I have two climatemaster tranquility 27 package units (4 and 2 Ton)that I installed six months ago. It is an open loop well system and they heat and cool my house perfectly. I recently had the HWG (desuperheaters) for both units teed together and piped in to an 80 gallon storage tank. I got the pipe diagram from our east coat distributer in NH, water and energy where I purchased the units. The only differnce is that I feed the HWG outputs into the cold input on the storage tank because it has a dip tub, instead of teeing onto the bottom drain valve.

    I notice that the smaller units HWG output gets much warmer (85-90 degrees) than the input, and seems to work right. The larger unit never seems to get more than a couple degrees if any different. I checked the voltage and the circulators are powered. They both run about the same but the 2ton unit is definitly much hotter on the output water. I put my hand on the lines inside both the units and same results, the 2ton smaller unit is much hotter output before the circulator. Domestic cold water is fed directly into the HWG input with check valves and when there is no call for hot water, it recirculated the water in the storage tank by pulling it out of the hot side of the tank with a check valve.

    Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    NE PA
    Posts
    698
    Pull out of the bottom (drain connection) and return into the cold. With 2 units you need check valves on each unit to isolate them so they don't circulate between each other.

    paul

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    out in the country
    Posts
    633
    There is a good chance it is air locked and not pumping or possible the line is blocked. You should have ball valves and unions of some sort installed so the air can be bled out of each circuit one at a time.You do need check valves on both desuperheaters-of course make sure the are installed with the correct flow direction. As for piping into and out of the water heater- we never pull from the bottom of the tank due to the possible clogging of the piping with scale because of water quality. We always returned the water to the bottom of the tank.

    iso
    I never let schooling interfere with my education... Mark Twain

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    5
    Thankyou both for responding. So Paul if I understand you correctly, Pull the water from a tee in the bottom drain and connect it to (HWG in) and the HWG out will feed the cold in on the tank. I would assume that the DCW is also teed directly into the cold in on the tank as well. Is that what you are recommending?

    I see that there is still debate over whether to pull from the bottom of the tank or put water in at the bottom. Do you know why or which is better? ISOTHERM's response seems very logical.

    I currently have a check valve on each units HWG in lines.
    Is that good enough to isolate them?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    NE PA
    Posts
    698
    Debate aside, I have installed all of the units with bottom T to HWG IN and HWG OUT teed into the cold water inlet on top. They work fine, so no debate in my mind.

    paul

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    out in the country
    Posts
    633
    In my area (SW Missouri) I have removed many W/H's that contained a lot of scale (several inches deep). Enough scale that even when you removed the drain valve from the bottom of the tank, the water would not drain from the tank at all. Your area may be different then my area, we have very hard water. I know for a fact if water can not go thru a 3/4 unrestricted hole at the bottom of a tank due to scale build up, then it will not go thru a 1/2 line connected to a desuperheater. Some of the desuperheater pumps require water going thru pilot holes (about 1/16 of an inch in diameter) to keep the bearings from siezing. Water out the bottom and in the top is not a good option for us.

    iso
    Last edited by ISOTHERMAL; 07-19-2008 at 10:34 AM.
    I never let schooling interfere with my education... Mark Twain

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    out in the country
    Posts
    633
    I should retract part of what I said in my first post.

    "I said we never pull from the bottom of the tank"

    Actually when we first started installing geo's. We did pull from the bottom we also returned to the bottom using a concentric fitting that was factory supplied. Didn't take to long to figure out a different way to hook them up, hoping to prevent futue problems. I have noticed some of the other co's around here have been hooking them pulling from the top also.

    Not saying pulling from the bottom will not work. Just stating what experience has taught me.
    I never let schooling interfere with my education... Mark Twain

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    NE PA
    Posts
    698
    I originally used the concentric fitting as well. Did not do a good job. Since we hook up to pull from the bottom and return to the dip tube. Even though some areas have a lot of limestone here, no real problem with sediment that I can recall.

    paul

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    delaware
    Posts
    31
    i would check the gpm at each unit, to see if they were right also.

    zxone

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    5
    Thankyou all for the great info. I have good water here so there is no buildup, but I will definitly watch for it. I will go with Tecman's recomendation.

    Paul, I have three silly questions.

    I assume that the domestic 'cold' water goes into the cold on the first tank also where I tee in the HWG out?

    Also, I have individual check valves on the HWG IN on both units, is that enough and in the right location?

    I also DON'T have bleed valves anywhere, should I install two at the highest point on each HWG out's?

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