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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    11,347

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger93rsl View Post
    Yea I got a little ahead of myself on that one, and come to think about I have seen a few p traps installed on newer RTU's but it's not very common to see them installed on older units.

    there were a few versions of Carrier RTU's that came with a built in P-trap installed at the factory

    aside from those all of the other RTU's without a built in P-trap do drain better with traps

    also with P-trap's installed it will eliminate pulling in unwanted hot ambient air!



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  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    11,347

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaw444 View Post
    I'm also concerned about the return duct being disconnected. Is that common? Shouldn't they fix that? anyway, thanks!

    they are not gonna fix that for free!

    but it deffinately needs to be fixxed!



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  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Mrcyber07 View Post
    yes the install company should eat the cost if alls true, unless some1 else stepped on the drain an broke the pan.. and always use a p trap its not only 4 noise but also helps in proper draining of the pan...maybe a 50/50 deal could be worked out...

    thanks. I am trying to find out what is considered 'proper installation.' Particularly, i want to find out about the effects of having or not having a P-trap on the pan, and i want to find out about the effects of the drain line being suspended in the air, hanging from the pan, instead of laying on the roof or supported by 2x4s. Is this considered proper to not have support for the line and not have a P-trap? Will it not harm anything to do it this way? The instruction manual that came with the unit says "the drain line must be properly trapped and routed to a suitable drain." The manual also has in italicized letters, "NOTE: The condensate drain must be properly trapped to provide proper drainage." Are they talking about a P-trap here or are there other kinds of traps that could be properly used by an installer?

    here's some pictures of what it looks like from the outside and the diagram from the Installation Instructions. The photos show the duct tape the guy used to 'fix' the problem when i reported it to him while he was there doing the regular maintenance. You can see that the drain line is off the ground for about 4 or 5 feet before it reaches the roof. It looks like there's a tilting or pulling to the side of the pipe that connects to the pan. i don't know if the diagram is much like the way mine is set up, they look different to me, but of course i'm sure there is variation in the proper way to do this.





  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Airmechanical View Post
    they are not gonna fix that for free!

    but it deffinately needs to be fixxed!



    .


    Any ideas what could cause the duct to disconnect? Is this normal wear and tear? Is it something that i somehow caused by misuse?

    Is it very common for people to have so many different problems like this with a 3 year old unit? I don't remember hearing people with newer units talk about having problems. I hear people say "I've had my air conditioner for 15 years and i think i may need to get a new one," and things like that, but for $8500 three years ago, is it really normal to need re-running the drain line, replacing the drain pan, installing a P-trap and reconnecting the return duct after three years?

    wow. i had no idea that this was normal and acceptable quality. I never had an AC before. This is my mom's house, she's 90 with dementia. I lived by the beach and never needed AC. I just naively assumed this was not something that needed a lot of repairs. Before we got my mom to install this AC, she had an evaporative cooler on the roof that was decades old and never required repair. i guess they don't make them like they used to. buyer beware, huh?

    I had heard the Lennox was a good brand, but I'll try another brand next time because i just can't accept that all of them have this many problems so soon after they are installed. When i was first looking into which one to get, people were telling me that their ACs were trouble free.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7
    i inquired about the the drain pan part by email and i just got a reply. It's not very much. a small fraction of the estimate for the repair. I wonder if they plan on including a P-trap and re-positioning the drain line when they do the repair. And reconnecting the duct. I'll call and find out tomorrow. The suspense is killing me. Not sure about trusting the quality of their work. I guess after they do it, i'll have the guy from the other company come out and check it. I wish i'd had someone come out and check it after it was first installed.
    Last edited by jaw444; 07-13-2008 at 10:46 PM. Reason: delete price info

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    28
    i'm not very famillar with lennox rtu's but no matter the brand if the drain line is on the suction side of the blower you definitly need a p trap for proper drainage.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    657
    first of all its odviously not the brand of the AC. lennox is a fine brand. its obvious that the install is the problem....a loose return duct, slightly improper installation of condensate. i'd talk to the install co. about these issues. in my opinion its not the equipment, its the install
    "The things you own end up owning you. "

    Tyler Durden

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,764
    your problems are hack install problems not equipment problems.

    take it up with the contractor, you may have to get loud about it........


    remove all of your prices, they are not allowed.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Northen West By God Virginia
    Posts
    72
    Everbody needs to ask their liabality insurance carrier because mine said that liabality of work never leaves you. Look at all the lawers out their suing.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    658
    Sorry JAW444, you got hacked!!! Ductwork don't fall off IF properly installed!!!!

    That unit needs a trap with a cap. Traps are not for noise, they are for negative pressure drains. If neg. press. drains aren't trapped, they back up water until the unit shuts off.

    That drain has plenty of fall. The weight did not break the drain pan.

    I recommend gettin nasty with the first company if they don't fix it!!!
    How long have you been a "maintenance customer" with them??????
    And if he just serviced it, how did he not see the duct prob?????
    Did he check a temp difference???

    I also recommend finding a new maintenance company. They are taking your money for doing nothing!!!!!!!

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,878
    if the original installing company is going to charge you to do the work i would not have them do it have the other company do it they already screwed you once

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    west point, ga.
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by superd77 View Post
    Sorry JAW444, you got hacked!!! Ductwork don't fall off IF properly installed!!!!

    That unit needs a trap with a cap. Traps are not for noise, they are for negative pressure drains. If neg. press. drains aren't trapped, they back up water until the unit shuts off.

    That drain has plenty of fall. The weight did not break the drain pan.

    I recommend gettin nasty with the first company if they don't fix it!!!
    How long have you been a "maintenance customer" with them??????
    And if he just serviced it, how did he not see the duct prob?????
    Did he check a temp difference???

    I also recommend finding a new maintenance company. They are taking your money for doing nothing!!!!!!!
    What he said.Leave the nice guy act out and start raiseing hell.Don't ask DEMAND!!It looks preety crappy anyway.Good luck.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV
    Posts
    748
    I dont like those adjustable roof curbs, set the curb, smear a bunch of tar around the edges and connect the flex duct to the bottom of it. I prefer to leave the elbow but it is what it is. I have seen a few decent jobs with those curbs but most of the time hack companys use them. I'm sure they probably didnt fasten the flex to the curb properly, you should have them check the supply side also to make sure it is fastened correctly.

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