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Thread: Foam vs Cellulose Blow in

  1. #1
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    Foam vs Cellulose Blow in

    I do realize this isn't a insulation forum per se, but you guys I trust. WE have Phase I beginning next week of our project-insulation.

    We have 4 guys coming out to give quotes. Already have raw quotes over the phone.

    3 will blow in cellulose up to R-49 (on top of R-19) for $$ to $$$$

    1 apply foam to the underneath side of the roof for $$$$$$

    1650 ft2
    Ridge Vents
    Soffit vents

    Nothing outta the ordinary

    Your thoughts, IF THIS WAS YOURABODE, WHICH WOULD YOU PICK??????

    Sidebar: what about using both?

    Thanx once again!!!!

    RS

  2. #2
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    IF the duct work and / or air handler is in the attic, foam the underside of the roof and seal the ridge and soffit vents.

    Otherwise, take the existing insulation out, add 1" of foam to the top of the ceiling to air seal it, and add your R49 cellulose on top of that.

  3. #3
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    i was in an attic today 95 degrees outside and spray foam on rafters of roof and attic was 72 degrees,it would have been hot as heck if it was fiberglass up there.It has to be better R vaule.
    It's NOT the BRAND,it's the company that installs it!!!!!

  4. #4
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    100% foam here in Southwest Florida.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrianf View Post
    100% foam here in Southwest Florida.
    Where the dew point is often higher than the indoor temperature, foam is the best answer. In that case, spray foam is the only answer for existing construction. For new construction, polyiso foam in 4x8 sheets can be used at less than half the price of spray foam.

  6. #6
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    Rumo check out my page....

    Rumo.

    All foam anywhere... We do foam and cellulose and HVAC

    "Build it Tight Size it Right"

    There is no better $$$ spent than the roof !!!

    Go to my web page...... pick it up from my profile

  7. #7
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    I do love the concept, if not the price, of a sealed attic. Cool, clean, bug and bat resistant, easy to see plumbing, wiring, etc.

    But how would you find a small roof leak prior to it becoming a major problem?

    What are the considerations for a gas furnace in a sealed attic?

  8. #8
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    Thread Starter

    Yeah the duct work is up there

    Quote Originally Posted by paul42 View Post
    IF the duct work and / or air handler is in the attic, foam the underside of the roof and seal the ridge and soffit vents.

    Otherwise, take the existing insulation out, add 1" of foam to the top of the ceiling to air seal it, and add your R49 cellulose on top of that.
    but the air handler is in a closet. I'm really thinkin' about goin' whole hog w/this and get the foam + cellulose blown in.

  9. #9
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    Man that's nice

    Quote Originally Posted by kenny mac View Post
    Rumo.

    All foam anywhere... We do foam and cellulose and HVAC

    "Build it Tight Size it Right"

    There is no better $$$ spent than the roof !!!

    Go to my web page...... pick it up from my profile
    do you have any insulation below?

  10. #10
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    KES Hybrid System

    Quote Originally Posted by RomulanSpy View Post
    do you have any insulation below?
    I came up with the KES HYBRID SYSTEM about 10 years ago which is a flash coat of closed cell and capped off with cellulose... it don't get no better wall system............
    Then about 2" under the slab and about 4" on the roof and you can predict your Manual J will come in about 2000 sqft per ton....................

    Check out the attachment

  11. #11
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    Thread Starter

    Impressive

    Quote Originally Posted by kenny mac View Post
    I came up with the KES HYBRID SYSTEM about 10 years ago which is a flash coat of closed cell and capped off with cellulose... it don't get no better wall system............
    Then about 2" under the slab and about 4" on the roof and you can predict your Manual J will come in about 2000 sqft per ton....................

    Check out the attachment

    wished your KES could make it up to the Magnolia State.

  12. #12
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    With we could go with 90% AFUE in attics
    It's NOT the BRAND,it's the company that installs it!!!!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenny mac View Post
    Then about 2" under the slab and about 4" on the roof and you can predict your Manual J will come in about 2000 sqft per ton....................

    Check out the attachment
    Maybe, with no windows!

  14. #14
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    Gotta love that foam.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    Maybe, with no windows!
    It doesn't require spray foam to hit 2,000 sq. ft. per ton. The windows do need to be shaded in the summer.

  16. #16
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    Sooo, I can do a 4000 sf home in Arizona with 2 tons?

    I don't think so.

  17. #17
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    Foam Problems

    No one in the foam business seems to want to answer what does happen when a roof leak occurs. Every sample of foam I've seen will not allow any water to pass through it. It also forms a very good bond to the roof decking and trusses...they push it as a hurricane resistant feature here in FL. One...roof leaks will occur...two, you'll never know it..until maybe you fall through a rotted deck or a rotted truss collapses. Any foam people want to engage in a discussion about this issue?

  18. #18
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    I Personlly live in a 12,220 sqft heated space with 5 Tons of Heat Pump do the math !

    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    Sooo, I can do a 4000 sf home in Arizona with 2 tons?

    I don't think so.
    Lets do the math 12,200 sqft... 5 Tons of Heat Pumps that Wrightsoft came up with 58K BTUs In Georgia so I put it in. 2440 per TON....
    Average Total Electric Bill $190..........

    I ran the loads...
    I sprayed the foam... I own the company
    I installed the HVAC.... I own that company

    Is it legal to Gamble on this page???? I will bet anyone any amount, buy their plane ticket, pick them up and bring them here (must be large wager)

    OK... GET YOU SOME OF THAT !!!!

  19. #19
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    I will have to answer you question with questions... Sorry

    Quote Originally Posted by garymunson View Post
    No one in the foam business seems to want to answer what does happen when a roof leak occurs. Every sample of foam I've seen will not allow any water to pass through it. It also forms a very good bond to the roof decking and trusses...they push it as a hurricane resistant feature here in FL. One...roof leaks will occur...two, you'll never know it..until maybe you fall through a rotted deck or a rotted truss collapses. Any foam people want to engage in a discussion about this issue?
    How many roof leaks have you had... I am 48 and never had one???

    If you had one dose it show up right at the leak, or dose it run down the decking or underlayment and show up at all?

    Dose every leak end up in the home or on the drywall?

    Do you not use an underlayment?

    How often do you run around on your roof?

    What do you consider is a leak? Every day the sun shines on a shingle it leaks moisture !!! Solar Driven Moisture happens everyday !!!!!

    Do you know what has the biggest impact in the deterioration process?
    Extreme Temp Change and wet and drying out....
    Do you know this is in the extreme when you vent an attic????

    If you foam the roof there is no way you would ever fall thru PERIOD !!!!

    If your worried about a leak, take some of the thousands $$$ your saving on your power bill from the foamed roof and pay some one like me a few hundred $$$ and do a Infrared Inspection every year....

    Dose this help???

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    Sooo, I can do a 4000 sf home in Arizona with 2 tons?

    I don't think so.
    4,000 sq. ft. of conditioned space in Fort Worth, Texas. At an official 101 degrees outside, 68 degrees dew point, my 2 ton heat pump cooled my house down to 70.3 degrees and my wife had to put a sweater on.

    And, it doesn't require spray foam, ICFs, or SIPs to get there.

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