Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 27 to 39 of 57
  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    684
    Quote Originally Posted by garymunson View Post
    I'd still be concerned about roof leaks. A plumbing leak is an entirely different animal....constant flow of water that will eventually show up somewhere. A leaky roof will provide a sporadic injection of water into the decking and trusses. As far a someone never having a roof leak...interesting how there seem to be a fair amount of people employed re-roofing structures. Of course if you move from new house to new house on a regular basis you may never experience one but here in Florida I have seen many roofs that looked fine leak badly. I'd feel better if the foam could somehow be applied above the actual roof structure as on commercial buildings with flat foam roof. In those cases, failure of the roof membrane is obvious.
    That is a pretty good way of doing it.
    5/8" decking applied to top of rafters.
    self healing roofing membrane applied to that.
    4" to 6" of polyiso foam insulation - 4x8 sheets - about $.50 a board foot.
    1/2" decking on top of foam with long screws and washers going through 1/2" decking and foam into 5/8" decking
    Whatever roof you prefer on top of that.
    The top layer of 1/2" decking can be replaced as needed when the roofing is replaced.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    Quote Originally Posted by RomulanSpy View Post
    but the air handler is in a closet. I'm really thinkin' about goin' whole hog w/this and get the foam + cellulose blown in.
    Doing both is a waste of moiney, after you get the quote for the foam you will not be thinking about spending any more money in the roof.

    To get the best answer, you need to state your approximate location.

    Foam in the walls has it advantages also. A stud wall with batts of fibreglass insulation is a filtered fresh air intake, air will flow through the wall and short circuit the insulation value, how ever the fibreglass will catch the big pieces of dirt.

    If you blow the foam into your wall you have stopped air movement

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    Quote Originally Posted by paul42 View Post
    That is a pretty good way of doing it.
    5/8" decking applied to top of rafters.
    self healing roofing membrane applied to that.
    4" to 6" of polyiso foam insulation - 4x8 sheets - about $.50 a board foot.
    1/2" decking on top of foam with long screws and washers going through 1/2" decking and foam into 5/8" decking
    Whatever roof you prefer on top of that.
    The top layer of 1/2" decking can be replaced as needed when the roofing is replaced.
    insulation on top of deck works in any climate. works great at my place

  4. #30
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Naples, Fl
    Posts
    889
    Quote Originally Posted by Carnak View Post
    Doing both is a waste of moiney, after you get the quote for the foam you will not be thinking about spending any more money in the roof.

    To get the best answer, you need to state your approximate location.

    Foam in the walls has it advantages also. A stud wall with batts of fibreglass insulation is a filtered fresh air intake, air will flow through the wall and short circuit the insulation value, how ever the fibreglass will catch the big pieces of dirt.

    If you blow the foam into your wall you have stopped air movement
    I believe he had something in the area of a $170.00 light bill that he is trying to reduce. Your thoughts please.

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rydal,Ga
    Posts
    84

    Yes, I am bragging about the impact I am having on our industry

    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon3475 View Post
    That's really professional of you as you promote your business and your home to prospecting HO's.

    If you have a good product wonderful.

    Why not approach it like a teaching lesson instead of in your face exclamatory cluster of brags.

    Foam is fairly new to most people.
    Yea John I was bragging a bit.... I fought all the HVAC guys for years and had them call me a idiot... When I was trying to get them to do their job
    So I joined them

    Yea when someone doubts my creditability I GET DEFENSIVE>
    And yes I am bragging about my success in my insulation and HVAC companies...
    I am not the one ripping my customers a new one... oversizing

    I am not bragging about my home.... but 5 Tons doing 12,220 is impressive..

    As far as my comment I am from the south.... and I enjoy life and I enjoy my job..... And when I sale a job.... I make sure my customers enjoys my presentation and not put then to sleep...

    Why didn't you question the guys that was doubting me...

    And I am a teacher..... why would I waste my time on this forum ?????

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,327
    Quote Originally Posted by kenny mac View Post
    Yea John I was bragging a bit.... I fought all the HVAC guys for years and had them call me a idiot... When I was trying to get them to do their job
    So I joined them

    Yea when someone doubts my creditability I GET DEFENSIVE>
    And yes I am bragging about my success in my insulation and HVAC companies...
    I am not the one ripping my customers a new one... oversizing

    I am not bragging about my home.... but 5 Tons doing 12,220 is impressive..

    As far as my comment I am from the south.... and I enjoy life and I enjoy my job..... And when I sale a job.... I make sure my customers enjoys my presentation and not put then to sleep...

    Why didn't you question the guys that was doubting me...

    And I am a teacher..... why would I waste my time on this forum ?????

    I don't doubt the value of the foam insulation. I doubt the sizing method of 2000 sf per ton. For many years Iíve fought the battle in western Arizona that 400 sf per ton is not a proper sizing method. The last thing I want to see is the new method to be 2000sf per ton.

    Whatís my sizing method? Iíve used Wrightsoft for many years and done thousands of loads. Iíve used blower doors, duct blasters, and foggers since 1995 and have a pretty good understanding of infiltration (to say the least).

    I usually see 30% to 50% of the homes A/C load to be glazing, so in my part of the world on a 4000 sf home thatís about 3.5 tons. Using your sizing method that leaves me about 1 Ĺ tons short for the WINDOWS.

    Here in Arizona I can take away ALL the wall, ceiling, infiltration and ducting load but will not get close to 2000sf per ton.
    You say you use Wrightsoft, I would love to see your loads on your 12500 sf home (must be nice). Especially your internal, glazing and ventilation loads. Are you running an ERV or some other type of ventilation?

    If I was building a new house today would I use foam? For sure. Iím doing the HVAC on the first homes to use foam in our town and yes it is being sized using Wrightsoft.

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    205

    Exactly

    Quote Originally Posted by adrianf View Post
    I believe he had something in the area of a $170.00 light bill that he is trying to reduce. Your thoughts please.
    Right now I doubt seriously if even have R-19 in the attic. TVA and other outfits say that I should max out at R-49 for Northern Mississippi.

    The quote on the foam is 3x as much as the blow in, but still wondering if bringing cellulose up to say R-30 and 5" of foam would be better or overkill.

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    Quote Originally Posted by kenny mac View Post
    Lets do the math 12,200 sqft... 5 Tons of Heat Pumps that Wrightsoft came up with 58K BTUs In Georgia so I put it in. 2440 per TON....
    Average Total Electric Bill $190..........

    I ran the loads...
    I sprayed the foam... I own the company
    I installed the HVAC.... I own that company

    Is it legal to Gamble on this page???? I will bet anyone any amount, buy their plane ticket, pick them up and bring them here (must be large wager)

    OK... GET YOU SOME OF THAT !!!!
    Cool

    you learned what Canadians knew 30 years ago

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    Quote Originally Posted by adrianf View Post
    I believe he had something in the area of a $170.00 light bill that he is trying to reduce. Your thoughts please.
    the romulon guy or the super insulated guy?

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    205

    Me

    Quote Originally Posted by Carnak View Post
    the romulon guy or the super insulated guy?
    you Klingon dog

  11. #37
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Naples, Fl
    Posts
    889
    Quote Originally Posted by Carnak View Post
    the romulon guy or the super insulated guy?
    The OP

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    In my opionion the best way to do an attic in a hot humid climate is to place your insualtion on top of the roof deck, then something reflective like white standing seam metal on top of the insulation. With a hip roof and sealed you are all set.

    If you have a gable roof then insulate the gable walls.

    With a sealed attic, and keeping the heat out on the first place, putting another layer of insulation at the ceiling plane is a waste of money. The duct leak of a typical hack job would more than condition the attic and you have a huge storage area available for no extra energy penalty.

    The second best way in my opinion is to blow icynene foam along the underside of the deck. Still no need to have insulation at the ceiling plane.

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rydal,Ga
    Posts
    84

    I am going to put this to bed for Jim & John

    Quote Originally Posted by jimj View Post
    I don't doubt the value of the foam insulation. I doubt the sizing method of 2000 sf per ton. For many years Iíve fought the battle in western Arizona that 400 sf per ton is not a proper sizing method. The last thing I want to see is the new method to be 2000sf per ton.

    Whatís my sizing method? Iíve used Wrightsoft for many years and done thousands of loads. Iíve used blower doors, duct blasters, and foggers since 1995 and have a pretty good understanding of infiltration (to say the least).

    I usually see 30% to 50% of the homes A/C load to be glazing, so in my part of the world on a 4000 sf home thatís about 3.5 tons. Using your sizing ethod hat leaves me about 1 Ĺ tons short for the WINDOWS.

    Here in Arizona I can take away ALL the wall, ceiling, infiltration and ducting load but will not get close to 2000sf per ton.
    You say you use Wrightsoft, I would love to see your loads on your 12500 sf home (must be nice). Especially your internal, glazing and ventilation loads. Are you running an ERV or some other type of ventilation?

    If I was building a new house today would I use foam? For sure. Iím doing the HVAC on the first homes to use foam in our town and yes it is being sized using Wrightsoft.
    The home I designed and built is a 3000 sqft ranch, full basement & an inlaw suite totaling 6700 sqft living space. It faces south with no windows at all on the east or west walls. Advanced Framed Walls, 2" Foam under slab, 5" CC Foam Roof, KES Hybrid walls, maybe .02 ACH. Heat Pump Water Heater, Induced Fresh Air, Tons of windows..... ALL METAL Foamed Ducts.....

    With the attic, carport and counter levered porch ceilings which adds another 5500 sqft of conditioned attic. 12,200 conditioned space YES I have a Ton of air in the attic

    The reason I am bring this to the table is to prove a point !!!! YOU CAN NOT SIZE any home by SQFT any shape, size or portion!!! PERIOD!!!
    Temp diff. (delta t), surface area, window, type of insulation are the factors.

    Jim and John
    think about that I have 1.5 ton unit for my inlaw suite, the inlaw is 700 sqft and called for less than 1/2 ton so I had to dump the other TON in the attic. It is a 12/12 Pitch 8900 sqft of roof.
    Added up is 6200 sqft inlaw and attic with a 1.5 TON unit THAT is 4300 sqft per ton.

    This is not bragging.... it is just facts.... I am going to start a tread soon with all of the details and let you guys beat me up

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event