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  1. #27
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    Jan 2004
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    Lancaster PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewyourown View Post
    I keep the house at 75 degrees except at night I turn down to 74 or 73 degrees depending. The RH is between 55 and 60%. This morning, it measured 65% at 74 degrees. Is 75 degrees to high a setting for AC?
    No, but 65%RH, is too high. Way too high. Its high enough for mold to be growing in your A/C as we speak.
    And other areas of your house.

    If you fell comfortable at 75 with 65% humidity. You would feel cool at 77 with 45% humidity. And use less electric.
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  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    120
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    Thats not normal operation.

    Something not quite right.

    If I let my place get to 80, and then turn the stat to 70, it will run non stop till it reaches 70.
    any thoughts as to what is "not right"? Or are there too many things to list? could it be that the return is too small?

  3. #29
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    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
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    67,763
    Too many possibilities.

    A tech would need to check it.
    Could be a safety doing its job. Or some other reason.
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  4. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    120
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    No, but 65%RH, is too high. Way too high. Its high enough for mold to be growing in your A/C as we speak.
    And other areas of your house.

    If you fell comfortable at 75 with 65% humidity. You would feel cool at 77 with 45% humidity. And use less electric.

    If I did not have AC (which this house did not have for 50 years prior to me owning it) and simply left the windows open all summer long, wouldn't the humidity regularly be over 55%? Most of the summer, the humidity outside is 40 to 75% sometimes higher.

  5. #31
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    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
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    Yes.
    And many houses had mold issues before A/C became a normal thing in houses.
    Just it becomes more evident, when you have a blower that could be blowing it through the whole house.

    Mold prefers dark damp areas. Like the inside of cold ducts in basements.

    Do you have mold, that I can't say for sure. If you or your wife suddenly start developing allergies, have your duct system checked.
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  6. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    Yes.
    And many houses had mold issues before A/C became a normal thing in houses.
    Just it becomes more evident, when you have a blower that could be blowing it through the whole house.

    Mold prefers dark damp areas. Like the inside of cold ducts in basements.

    Do you have mold, that I can't say for sure. If you or your wife suddenly start developing allergies, have your duct system checked.

    thanks, I'll keep an eye on it along with the humidity levels. I am just mad that my installer put in a three-ton unit in my tiny home. I didn't know enough at the time to question it, and now that I do, I don't know whether to remedy it or not....arghhh.

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
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    6,270
    I have attached a wonderground temp/dew point for Binghamton,NY July 1-10. You do not have much cooling load to date. Your temps are similar to WI. Your hot weather is ahead of you. Allowing the temperature to rise during the day saves energy. You have the extra capacity to pull the home down quickly. You cool faster than the materials in you home are able to down. Thus the shut off and restart from the materials in your home cooling down.
    With a high temp of 80, there is not enough cooling load to expect good humidity control. To make sure that the a/c is setup right, the cooling coil should be 25^F cooler than the air flowing over the coil. Cold cooling coils max the dehumidification effect of the a/c. Is your fan in the auto or on mode. Auto delays the rapid moisture re-evaporation into the home. Over 10 hours, much of the moisture on the coil will re-evaporation. A smaller a/c would do slightly better. Keep in mind an a/c half the size operates twice as long. There is much difference in cooling cost. There is better moisture removal because several minutes of cooling down the coil are required to get cold enough to remove moisture. The facts are that over night you have no cooling load. No cooling means big/small a/c to not operate and remove no moisture.
    Suggest investigating good 65 pint dehu. The best big box stores dehus may work for you. The best dehues like a Santa Fe Compact or Ultra-Aire 65 can be ducted into your a/c and located remotely in your basement. These units are high eff. and use 50% less electricity. They also remove large amounts of moisture at cooler temps. There are able to maintain <50%RH throughout your home regardless of the cooling load.
    Also attaching my home is similar cooling load conditions. Regards TB
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    120
    I had thought A.R.S. was a nationwide and quality HVAC company, but since they are the ones who installed my oversized system, I won't call them back.

    Anyone know a decent company in the Westchester/Putnam/Dutchess county area of southern New York State?

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    I have attached a wonderground temp/dew point for Binghamton,NY July 1-10. You do not have much cooling load to date. Your temps are similar to WI. Your hot weather is ahead of you. Allowing the temperature to rise during the day saves energy. You have the extra capacity to pull the home down quickly. You cool faster than the materials in you home are able to down. Thus the shut off and restart from the materials in your home cooling down.
    With a high temp of 80, there is not enough cooling load to expect good humidity control. To make sure that the a/c is setup right, the cooling coil should be 25^F cooler than the air flowing over the coil. Cold cooling coils max the dehumidification effect of the a/c. Is your fan in the auto or on mode. Auto delays the rapid moisture re-evaporation into the home. Over 10 hours, much of the moisture on the coil will re-evaporation. A smaller a/c would do slightly better. Keep in mind an a/c half the size operates twice as long. There is much difference in cooling cost. There is better moisture removal because several minutes of cooling down the coil are required to get cold enough to remove moisture. The facts are that over night you have no cooling load. No cooling means big/small a/c to not operate and remove no moisture.
    Suggest investigating good 65 pint dehu. The best big box stores dehus may work for you. The best dehues like a Santa Fe Compact or Ultra-Aire 65 can be ducted into your a/c and located remotely in your basement. These units are high eff. and use 50% less electricity. They also remove large amounts of moisture at cooler temps. There are able to maintain <50%RH throughout your home regardless of the cooling load.
    Also attaching my home is similar cooling load conditions. Regards TB

    VERY informative. I have to go back and read this post again. What you say makes absolute sense on the cooling load, it really hasn't been that hot yet. I do run a comfort air dehumidifier in the basement with the discharge through a hose and into my sump. I never thought to put one upstairs, but they are a bit noisy and unsightly to have sitting there in the living room.

    But are you describing a dehumidifier that is "coupled" to the ductwork of the house?

    I keep the fan swich on auto, so it only runs when the AC is on.

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Dallas & Longview, TX
    Posts
    629
    TB could be right about your AC cycling back on but I thought you mentioned it went off before the stat setpoint was reached. This would mean beenthere is right- have it checked out.

    Santa Fe is freestanding. Ultra-Aire is intigrated to the ducting I think.

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Daltex View Post
    TB could be right about your AC cycling back on but I thought you mentioned it went off before the stat setpoint was reached. This would mean beenthere is right- have it checked out.

    Santa Fe is freestanding. Ultra-Aire is intigrated to the ducting I think.
    It usually does shut down before set poiont is reached during a long run

    .....interesting though, tonight I got home at 6PM, outside temp was 78, inside was also 78, I turned on AC to 73 degrees. Humidity inside when I got home was 59%, right now at 6:50, the stat says it is 75 degrees and the humidity is 54%, the AC has just shut down even though set point is 73 degrees. I'll post in a bit as to how long it is off for.

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    120
    It started up again at 7:00PM and it is now 7;20, still on, I have reached set point, but still on presumably for another 5 to 10 minutes. Humidity is now at 50% (I don't know exactly because the humidity meter I have is a cheapo that you have to interpolate to figure out what it is, it has a "comfort zone" on it and I am on the high end of the comfort zone.

    maybe my ealier posts about humidity were not accurate, I think I am mostly in the comfort zone with the AC on, but in the morning when it hasn't run much, maybe the RH creeps up

  13. #39
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    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,763
    Sounds like it is shuttin off from a safety switch doing its job.
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