Here in Southern Missouri......it'a been about 90 day and 70 night......2800 sq. ft. house......about $100 bucks last month......keep it at 72-73 degrees.
Caulk and insulation, good windows.....no kids to open the doors all day....little shade.....and by the way, that $100 is for everything...all electric home.
1700 sq-ft split-foyer in Baltimore built in '86. Original Anderson windows, 12" atttic insulation, house gets beat on by the sun all day long.
All electric home. 2 refrigerators (1 just for beer and soda).
Just me and the boss.
Keep the hot water tank at 125F. Who needs 150F water to shower with when its 90F outside?
Try to tell the boss to minimize the use of the dryer.
Have ceiling fans in all rooms. Run the air handler fan when home to pull cooler air from the below-grade family room (and keep the boss away from the t-stat).
Setback t-stat: 73 wake-up, 78 when at work, 74 return from work, 73 at bed time.
Rates are now 13.77 cents per kw-hr delivered.
Replaced a fully functional, 21 year-old 7 SEER heat pump with a 14 SEER Goodman last June to combat a 72% rise in electric rates.
Used 755 kw-hr in June for a $120 electric bill.
Reduced summer kw consumption by approx 40% going from 7 SEER to 14 SEER.
JAX1 had some excellent advice. Making the ceiling airtight to the attic is important. It is going to require a lot of attic work. If you are doing it yourself, I reccomend 4am.
With the exception of non IC rated can lights, you want to seal every opening in the drywall, and that also means paying particular attention to the top plate to drywall joints on interior and exterior walls.
I recommend getting a foam gun and several cans of gun foam. It will save you a lot of time in the attic and a lot of frustration as well. Get a decent LED headlamp - so you can see what you are doing.
Radiant barrier on the inside of the rafters is also cost effective - cut the stuff into manageable size pieces and staple it up.
Hiring a commercial company to blow in the cellolose can be almost as cheap as doing it yourself. They can buy the cellulose cheaper than you can.
Mines an Armstrong.
Originally Posted by gonekuku
How old is your refrigerator. If it is more than 10 years old, the electric savings on a new one may pay for it in five or six years.
Switch out all bulbs to compact flourescents. If you have some that are on a dimmer or motion switch, make sure they are the dimmable type - I buy my dimmable ones on Ebay.
Check out the possibility of adding solar screens to any window that gets much sun in the summer. They can really cut a lot of the load on your AC.
Do NOT put an attic fan in.
I'm gonna take a look at those (possible) intrusions
of attic air into the living space around the registers. And, gonna take your advice and open up the the shut off room+open the supply register.
Originally Posted by jax1
I'm only gonna run the T-stat up to around 78* instead of 80's.
TVA audit said our appliances (that consume much electricity) are old and inefficient. The plasma tv puts out an incredible amount of latent heat (but that's 4th place next to wife and kids) and we SO need to add insulation.
In fact we have a DUDE coming out end of this week or beginning of next week to look at the job and hopefully get some cellulose down.
I appreciate your's and other's hints.
Sidebar: the A/C runs off/on (more on) all nite to keep temp at between 69-71*. This is what sucks. Besides gaining so much heat during the day, we have to fight just to keep the house sleepable at night.
Has your charge been checked by superheat/subcooling?
Originally Posted by RomulanSpy
What is your split temperature (difference in temp before the indoor coil and after the indoor coil)?
No to first question (long story)
Originally Posted by gary_g
I don't know to 2nd but I'll be getting a thermometer today to see the difference
And thanx, I'll be posting my results later today.
That's a fairly "cold" a/c setting. Do you have ceiling fans in the bedrooms? Running a ceiling fan on low while sleeping can allow you to raise that 69-71 temperature and still feel comfortable.
Originally Posted by RomulanSpy
Has the KWH use increased? Do you have a pool? Do you have a well pump? Do you have a spa? Do you have ceiling fans you leave on? Do you have a sprinkler pump?
And just say NO THANKS to any PAV suggestion.
I'll second somoene else's response to the attic fan.... don't put one in.
There may be a need for it (it rarely is needed though), but first you have to consider lots of things
1. Cheaper alternatives
2. Will an exhaust fan cause your combustion equipment (water heater, furnace, stove, oven, bathroom) to backdraft... potential for CO poisoining
3. Do you have crazy amounts of ventilation sources for fresh air in the attic?
4. Will your attic fan suck air from the house? (see consideration 2,3)
5. Studies show the costs of the running the fan are not overcome by electricity savings in your AC
6. Other things you can do first, radiant barrier, natural ventilation, more insulation after doing what others here have posted regardling air sealing between conditioned space&attic, low hanging fruit for energy savings, etc.
My house, 1900 sf, 3-ton Trane XL16i HP, modest amounts of insulation in attac (1" above floor joists in attic), less insulation in vented crawl, brick house built in 1958, single story, little shade... my attic gets to 140° on a hot July day, power bill last July was $90 (I was wrong earlir and said 110 from memory). Duke Power appr 8.5 cents per kWh. Setback during weekdays to 77, 74 when occupied. June this year was 85.
Last edited by OOC; 07-09-2008 at 09:27 PM.
Reason: my typing skills suck - also fixed my utility bills - I was wrong when I first wrote this
I guess I must have a really low electric bill. We have 2200 square feet and a 4 ton Trane XL 16i heat pump. I keep my thermostat programmed at 75 during the day and 73 at night. Our bill for June was 65.00. Humidity stays at about 52 % so I guess it is a little oversized but I am very pleased so far. Also, our outdoor temperatures have been in the low 80's for most of the summer.
Only maintaining 5 to 8 degrees below OD temp, doesn't use a lot of electric.