Replyand diagnosis.Originally Posted by RyanHughes
Professional Member*
Superheat and sub-cooling. These are readings that your service tech can and should take. They're used in charging systems with refrigerant.
Professional Member
and diagnosis.
Regular Guest
Thanks.
Superheat is 8* and Sub-Cool is 13*. Don't know what those mean to me, but that is what is written down.
Professional Member
He left out some very useful information that is needed in determining capacity.
Membership Chair/ARP Committee / Professional Member*
.
PHM
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When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
I don't know, can you.
Oh, you meant allowed to.
You can explain them. And then if you get your hands slapped. We'll know were not allowed too.
Membership Chair/ARP Committee / Professional Member*
Apparently there is a razor thin shadow-line between helping and aiding & abetting that I cannot discern accurately.
Where is it in a case like this?
For example: can I detail what the numbers mean but not how to obtain them?
PHM
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When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
I have no idea.
Membership Chair/ARP Committee / Professional Member*
<g>
PHM
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When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.
Professional Member
lol
They tell me his report is incomplete.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Your welcome.
Chicken.
Membership Chair/ARP Committee / Professional Member*
I am not from AZ - which I suspect you are - with a 109 degree outdoor temperature.
BTW: Can I take that "t-indoors" number to mean: The temperature difference between room temperature to supply air temperature?
None of those numbers alone seems to indicate anything bad about the unit's operation.
Ask the tech / service company for some more test numbers:
The difference between outdoor temperature and the air going into the outdoor unit. And the difference between what is going in the sides and what is coming out the top. That's three separate numbers I want.
Ask them what happens to the SH number when the SC number is varied by them.
What does the air filter, blower wheel, blower housing, and indoor cooling coil look like? How dirty or clean are they?
Are any air returns or registers closed or blocked off?
PHM
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PHM
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When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Ithought you were going to tell her what teh SC, and SH mean.
And that she's just a little low on charge.
Regular Guest
I would like to know what those numbers mean and how you obtain them, but for personal knowledge, not to try and fix it - fixing it will be left to a professional (unless the 3A car fuse in the blower burns out).
I am trying to get further information for future dumb***es that come out here and tell me it is working fine. I want to be able to say "if the SH is _, and the SC is _, shouldn't that say that there is a restriction somewhere?" or something to those lines.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Obtaing them requires guages and temp probes.
Learning what they mean, takes a few years of doing the work.
Your vapor pressure is a bit low for your operating conditions.
Your head pressure is about right.
Your SC is ok.
But your SH is a tad high.(unless you have high humidity in your house )
Professional Member
Has anything changed by chance?
Any tall shading trees removed?
Anybody do any work up in the attic that may have damaged duct work?
Anything at all that would change the heat load on the home?
And beenthere as usual is dead on with slight undercharge and low suction pressure for the return air temp that was stated earlier....however I am reluctant to say that because there is no form of air flow verification or return air temps just a delta T. You are in a dry climate so I could see a 20* drop from a properly operating system though.
Regular Guest
No returns or registers are closed or blocked off. All doors in the house are opened. I installed in cieling speakers a while ago, only had to cross over 1 duct, but did not touch it and it blows air just like the others. I also recently went back up and examined for a tear or crack and felt around it to see if I could feel any air coming out of it.
The air filter is changed every 30 days religiously. The blower wheel housing and coil look like they are 6 months old...barley dirty. I have seen one that is dirty, at my old house.
Regular Guest
Nothing has changed besides air filters and in cieling speakers. No trees removed, sun screens are on and clean.
I did have a hot water heater replaced, but it is on the opposite side of the house and in the garage. No duct work goes by it, no nothing.
Professional Member
How many speakers and how large?
What filter did you change to?
AOP Committee/Professional Member*
The ceiling speakers could have caused an increase in the heatload.(?)
You could have caused some other problems in the attic area that you are not aware of.
I have not read enough of the posts, so will end my comments here.
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