Advice/Help Needed
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    19

    Advice/Help Needed

    My electric bill has almost doubled this month (now over $300) and I'm trying to determine if the A/C is the culprit. I measured the amperage draw of my CPKE42-1B Goodman compressor and each 120v leg reads 16.9amps. Does this mean the total amperage draw is 33.8 amps? This seems high to me but I don't know, I couldn't find a spec sheet for this compressor. The outside average temperature has been 83 for the month of June and the temperature was 83 degrees when I measured the amperage draw from the compressor.

    Also, the temperature differential from the A/C is only 11 degrees (i.e. 76 degrees inside, AC blows 65)

    I'm trying to determine if I should upgrade the entire A/C system and if it would save me money within three years (where moving in about 4 years). I can purchase an American Standard system at cost through a friend/dealer. I'm thinking their Heritage 15 SEER would probably be most economical but I haven't seen any figures yet.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
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    18,836
    Where are you measuring the supply and return temps.?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    19
    I was measuring the supply at the first air register from the A/C unit. I used the ambient air temperature in the house to measure return temps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
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    At the equipment would be better,as you could have duct leakage from a hot area ,that's the cause of the low temperature drop.

    How long have you been in the home,and did the actual kw consumtion copared to the same month last increase that much.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    19
    I'll re-measure the temperature at the unit. I did inspect the attic ducting for leaks and didn't find any. I just ran my hand along the duct work especially at the seems and never felt any air being pushed out.

    My daily KWH consumption went up by 19KWH's. Oddly enough, most of the month of May (our first month in the house) we had the thermostat set on 74 and had moved it to 76 later that month. The month of June it's been set on 76 with zero adjustment.
    Last edited by Isailer; 07-06-2008 at 03:13 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    19
    Okay, I re-measured the temperature at the air handler and there is now a 20 degree differential; 77 degrees in, 57 degrees out. Because of this I re checked the temperature at the first register (same one I measured before) and it also read 57 degrees. The only thing I can think of, is the attic is currently much cooler since it's over cast and about to rain. Could attic temps really effect the temperature output that much?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    ocean county nj
    Posts
    9

    Smile

    Hi An 11 degree spead is too low.Look for about 18-20 spread across the evaporator. If you know how to check superheat,see what it is.Their is often a chart , on the outside unit that will tell you what the superheat or subcooling should be ,but you need a gauge set for your refrigerant type and thermometers to measure it.( glasses and gloves worn at all times!) You may be low on charge, most likely problem.Don't overlook the obvious ,make sure that your condensor is clean , not full of leaves ,grass clippings etc. An a/c that can't reject its heat can't cool properly either.Generally speaking its 18-18-18 example 78 degrees in 60 degrees out 42 degree coil temperature.(rule of thumb)Randy

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
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    They shouldn't if the ducts are insulted.However return duct leakage of hot attic air can cause the difference.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    19
    The return air is directly below the air handler (no duct work) so no chance that's leaking.

    I guess I need to find out if the amp draw from my compressor is too high.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    ocean county nj
    Posts
    9
    By the way ,everyone is going to be shocked by their bills because the power compnay can now pass along to you the cost increase in fuel that is used to generate your power. If they are using oil or natural gas to do that your bills will be going up in addition to any rate increases they get for "distribution" of electric.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
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    If the space below the air handler has a wall or walls, thay could draw air from the attic.

    Also if in a closet,air can be drawn from where the supply duct goes thru the ceiling.

    Unit should have RLA(run load amps ) on the nameplate.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    ocean county nj
    Posts
    9

    amp draw

    A high amp draw at the condensor generally indicates one of a few things , a dirty condensor causing high head pressure , a weak compressor run capacitor , a condensor fan running too slowly (check capacitor first) or bad windings in the compressor.Randy

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
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    4,600
    Quote Originally Posted by ammonia man View Post
    By the way ,everyone is going to be shocked by their bills because the power compnay can now pass along to you the cost increase in fuel that is used to generate your power. If they are using oil or natural gas to do that your bills will be going up in addition to any rate increases they get for "distribution" of electric.
    you are correct there is a fuel adjustment charge on the bills that was huge an also in june they start the peak capacity charge this is for san antonio i dont know about your provider also june was a hot month dont just look at the total $$ but check your kw hr of usage and compare the usage to last yrs

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