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07-06-2008, 11:41 AM #14Professional Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
Fire this tech and get a competent one.
Should not have changed existing piston size. And should have taken airflow measurements and temps across the indoor coil.
Could be dirty coils in the indoor unit since a drop of only 10 degrees indicates quite a reduction in cooling .
07-06-2008, 12:42 PM #15
I would think checking for proper air flow and sealed ducts would be the next step. Doing a load calculation would not hurt either.Remember, Air Conditioning begins with AIR.
07-06-2008, 12:49 PM #16
The technician is obviously a part changer and not a troubleshooter. Lets try this and see what happens......no thats not it either, now lets try this.....
I can't stand part changers. Take your damn time and troubleshoot a system for once. 6 hours spend in one trip is a hell of a lot better than 6 trips at 2 hours each. What happened to taking your time? Everyone seems to be in a rush nowadays. Why? Your only moving backward when moving too fast. The tech needs to slow down and take the time to find the problem.I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.
If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.
If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.
07-06-2008, 01:20 PM #17
In that dry AZ climate, unless you live in an irrigated area, with 400-cfm per/ton of cooling (- CFM should always be checked & recorded on plenum!) , 80-Indoor db a 64-Indoor wb, 41% RH, the indoor temp split should be around 20.6-F, an 11-F split would be the target at 74-IWB, or 76% RH.
That information should be documented in writing as it is a huge signal of a problem to any qualified diagnostic HVAC tech.
Always ask the tech to make a record of all the test data & his observations, & keep all the install & service records near or on the equipment!
Another possibility is a hot-air-return intake leak, which would probably drive pressures higher than those recorded.
At 100-F & a 64-IWB the superheat would target at 3-F.
At 110-F & IWB 66-F it would target at 2-F superheat. Higher wet-bulbs, of course, will raise the superheat targets. - Darrell U.
07-07-2008, 08:43 PM #18Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
The split temp at the air handler is found to be 20F (which the tech measured), but the split temp found in the room is 11F (amb 80F, vent 69F). Attic temperature is around ~120 to 125F.
This room's duct is the closest to the air handler, and yet rooms further away have a higher split temp (not by much though, around 14 to 15F).
I am guessing the attic temperature probably causes 4 to 5F loss in efficiency in the air ducts, but is losing 9F in efficiency means there's 99% chance there's a leak in the duct?
Of course, the tech could be lying with the split temp of 20F, I guess it's time for a second look.
07-07-2008, 09:19 PM #19
It could be pulling attic air into the duct. or it could be attic air being pulled intot eh room from the register.Contractor locator map
How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?