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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,770
    First no equipment, parts, or install prices. Its in the rules. You should edit it out.

    Around here, we're below freezing temps quiet often, We pump the condensing furnace into the sewage drain to prevent from freezing. Your local codes may not permit that.

    Although it may not at first the efficiency increase is worth the cost. With the increase in fuel prices, it does pay back.

    I have done the heat in many houses with basements with 3 exposed sides. It still does not jump the heat loss that much.

    What is your winter design temp. Or what area do you live in.

    If you want, you can do your own load calc, http://hvaccomputer.com/talkref.asp
    To find out for sure.

    If your outdoor design is -30, it might need bigger furnaces.
    If thats the case, make a deal to pay the contractor to install the larger ones then.
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  2. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    6,285
    Almost all of TN is in the lower to upper teens. With the exception of Chattanooga and Memphis which are 20 & 21* respectively. Coldest spot being Clarksville at 12*

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,770
    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon3475 View Post
    Almost all of TN is in the lower to upper teens. With the exception of Chattanooga and Memphis which are 20 & 21* respectively. Coldest spot being Clarksville at 12*
    I was too lazy to look up all of Tenn.
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  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    6,285
    I go no where without my trustee manual J

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,915
    If your real concern is how high your heating bills will be, you need to work on decreasing the homes heat loss. Larger furnaces certainly won't use less gas to heat the house...

    I recommend that you not use the fireplace as frequently, and keep the damper closed at all times that it is not in use.
    You loose more heat up the chimney than is radiated into the room, and you also loose heated air from inside the house, often several hundred CFM, depending on the fireplace design.
    All of that air lost up the chimney gets replaced with cold outside air that leaks into the house, driving your indoor humidity levels down, and your gas bill up.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    8
    Thanks everyone! 1) Edited out that $ price amount. 2) Yes, average winter temp here is mid-20s in the am, rising to low 50s. Just my guess. 3) Yes, I agree on that fireplace. We actually only use it on avg 2-3 nights a week (weekends). Leave the damper open overnight of course to insure it vents outside and then close immediately in the am, so it's kept closed majority of time for sure. 4) Contractor has been back out to gather data for the heat loss calculation. He took lots of notes, measured windows, seemed pretty observant about roof exposures, exterior walls, etc. I remain worried that this is a drafty house with plently of single pane windows. No need to preach to the choir--wish I had the money for replacement windows and all that other insulation. In this case had to replace some of the heating/ac systems so did the whole house. Their initial opinion is that they have sized it correctly based upon years of experience but they offered to do this. I do not have their report yet. Will let everyone know. Thanks again gentlemen.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Gold Coast of Connecticut
    Posts
    4,656
    The equipment will last longer and cost less to run with LONGER run cycles.

    I am sure 120K will heat your home. In Connecticut I would think it would work. Maybe the old furnaces were 80K to get the correct CFM for the cooling and were never sized for heat.
    Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    8
    OK--here are the numbers from the load calulation:
    0 deg 10 deg
    1st floor 46,3k 39.9 k
    2nd floor 36k 30.6k

    Again, two perfectly working furnaces (AFUE 80) both 75,000/60,000 replaced by two new Trane XR80 47,000 output capacity.

    Sound like it's enough? How much of a 'pad' should there be? The 10 degree almost 40k, with a 47k output sounds close to me. Obviously, zero degs would really make the downstairs struggle. Less than 10 degs is somewhat rare. Upper teens to mid-20s normal. Thanks

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,764
    looks like your close enough that he did you a favor.

    if your worried about it some more insulation might make a big difference.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,770
    Since design temps for Tenn, aren't below 10*, no problem.
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  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    8
    Thanks yet again gentlemen! By the way, if anyone wants, I have the technical data (columns of numbers). Appears they used something from 'Elite' software.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,770
    If you can post them as a PDF ok.

    Sometimes when someone types in the info. They mistype. And then we get confused because the info doesn't make sense.
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  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    73
    i have a 90+ efficient funace an it doesnt freeze up in the winter and iam in OHIO...lol

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