First no equipment, parts, or install prices. Its in the rules. You should edit it out.
Around here, we're below freezing temps quiet often, We pump the condensing furnace into the sewage drain to prevent from freezing. Your local codes may not permit that.
Although it may not at first the efficiency increase is worth the cost. With the increase in fuel prices, it does pay back.
I have done the heat in many houses with basements with 3 exposed sides. It still does not jump the heat loss that much.
What is your winter design temp. Or what area do you live in.
If you want, you can do your own load calc, http://hvaccomputer.com/talkref.asp
To find out for sure.
If your outdoor design is -30, it might need bigger furnaces.
If thats the case, make a deal to pay the contractor to install the larger ones then.
Almost all of TN is in the lower to upper teens. With the exception of Chattanooga and Memphis which are 20 & 21* respectively. Coldest spot being Clarksville at 12*
I was too lazy to look up all of Tenn.
Originally Posted by BigJon3475
I go no where without my trustee manual J
If your real concern is how high your heating bills will be, you need to work on decreasing the homes heat loss. Larger furnaces certainly won't use less gas to heat the house...
I recommend that you not use the fireplace as frequently, and keep the damper closed at all times that it is not in use.
You loose more heat up the chimney than is radiated into the room, and you also loose heated air from inside the house, often several hundred CFM, depending on the fireplace design.
All of that air lost up the chimney gets replaced with cold outside air that leaks into the house, driving your indoor humidity levels down, and your gas bill up.
Thanks everyone! 1) Edited out that $ price amount. 2) Yes, average winter temp here is mid-20s in the am, rising to low 50s. Just my guess. 3) Yes, I agree on that fireplace. We actually only use it on avg 2-3 nights a week (weekends). Leave the damper open overnight of course to insure it vents outside and then close immediately in the am, so it's kept closed majority of time for sure. 4) Contractor has been back out to gather data for the heat loss calculation. He took lots of notes, measured windows, seemed pretty observant about roof exposures, exterior walls, etc. I remain worried that this is a drafty house with plently of single pane windows. No need to preach to the choir--wish I had the money for replacement windows and all that other insulation. In this case had to replace some of the heating/ac systems so did the whole house. Their initial opinion is that they have sized it correctly based upon years of experience but they offered to do this. I do not have their report yet. Will let everyone know. Thanks again gentlemen.
The equipment will last longer and cost less to run with LONGER run cycles.
I am sure 120K will heat your home. In Connecticut I would think it would work. Maybe the old furnaces were 80K to get the correct CFM for the cooling and were never sized for heat.
Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced
OK--here are the numbers from the load calulation:
0 deg 10 deg
1st floor 46,3k 39.9 k
2nd floor 36k 30.6k
Again, two perfectly working furnaces (AFUE 80) both 75,000/60,000 replaced by two new Trane XR80 47,000 output capacity.
Sound like it's enough? How much of a 'pad' should there be? The 10 degree almost 40k, with a 47k output sounds close to me. Obviously, zero degs would really make the downstairs struggle. Less than 10 degs is somewhat rare. Upper teens to mid-20s normal. Thanks
looks like your close enough that he did you a favor.
if your worried about it some more insulation might make a big difference.
Since design temps for Tenn, aren't below 10*, no problem.
Thanks yet again gentlemen! By the way, if anyone wants, I have the technical data (columns of numbers). Appears they used something from 'Elite' software.
If you can post them as a PDF ok.
Sometimes when someone types in the info. They mistype. And then we get confused because the info doesn't make sense.
i have a 90+ efficient funace an it doesnt freeze up in the winter and iam in OHIO...lol