water in a/c overflow pan - Page 2
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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    2,504
    From what I have read, it soulds like you got one hell of a hack on your hands.

    Refrigerant pressures mean nothing to me. Refrigerant levels mean everything. and theres a lot that goes into this calculation....just as mentioned before: indoor DB/WB/RH, outdoor DB/WB/RH, suction pressure, discharge pressure, liquid pressure, liquid line temp, suction line temp, suberheat/subcooling calculator. We take all these readings and sometimes more to properly diagnose a system.

    Your tech couldn't get the pressure to rise so that automatically qualifies as a bad compressor???? Its scary that he made it through school with them smarts.


    You need to find a reputable contractor. One that is more than willing to send a tech out with no time limit. I don't work on time limits. I work 1 call at a time. If it takes 6 hours, then it takes 6 hours. Never again will I even attempt to come close to halfassing a diagnostic.


    Get another company out. And see what they say. There has got to be something simple going on. Obviously, your current contractor can't figure it out. And the more the system runs improperly, the more damage that could be done. And the more damage leads to more future failures. Yes, even a clogged drainline is bad when not properly taken care of.

    Any more questions??? just ask. We are here to help best the man will let us.
    I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.


    If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.

    If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    west point, ga.
    Posts
    328
    No filter No filter No filter................You always need a filter.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    9
    Oh my goodness... I think I have been dupe...

    iraqveteran - I think when he had to come back the second time... I was already concerned. Wished I have found this forum before I went out and tried to get someone out. Wished I have called one of the big companies to come out instead a small one... Wished I have... wished I have... wished I have... Oh well, hopefully, I will not make the same mistake again.

    RDP - I should have a filter??? What should I do??? How can I find out if there is one or not??? Is it the same kind of filter as the one that I have to change every month inside the house? I have 3 of those... 1 upstairs, 1 downstairs and 1 in the master bedroom. These are not the same one everyone is talking about is it? I was under the impression that the one everyone is talking about is some where attached to the inside a/c unit up in the attic. HELP!!!! The more I read the more clueless I find myself to be...

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    maryland, baltimore
    Posts
    135
    Your filters are remote from the unit, there is more than one return air grille they connect to the main duct, makes it easier to change. Probably nitrogen or compressed air in the yellow bottle. As far as large companies, there is nothing wrong with small ones. You want to avoid magnetic signs on the truck, people who don't look the part. Ask around, most have web sites and act informed when you talk to them. My wife took her truck in for service and the guy treated her like she was stupid. Told her that brakes on high perf vecihles wear a lot faster than on regular cars. Also told her that the vibration would stop if she would slam the brakes a couple of times while going fast. This was a big dealer in our area. Fact is the rotors were shot with 12,000 miles on them and under warranty, needless to say she wont use them even for an oil change. She was tuaght at 16 how to change all four tires in rotation, oil and filter, etc.
    We provide a service and when your good at what you do the word will get around. Good luck.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    9
    Hi everyone,

    I am soooo stump... I actually went and check everything as have suggested. I checked the overflow pan and it is completely dried, but the water is overflow out to the side of the house (through the overflow tube). Is this possible? I have went in and tried to blow out the bleach tube (pvc about 1/2 inch). Still nothing seem to help. When I blow out the tube, the water stopped flowing outward from the overflow tube for about a day and it is back to what it was before... this time, it slow down, but never stopped dripping out to the side of the house. It has been suggested that I try to force the clog out with the water hose. But my fear is that it will splash water all over the attic. Then I was told maybe I should try to snake the clog out but the bleach tube have a 45 to 75 degree curve in the tube. The question is could I put the snake through the tube if it is that curved? Please advise.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,374
    I suggest you ask friends and relatives for a recomendation and have a reputable company come out and inspect the system. It is very rare a drain line is so clogged it needs to be snaked even if it as possible with such a small drain line. These lines are also PVC. It is a very bad idea to use bleach in them.

    Where are you located? Perhaps someone on the board is in your area or can recomend someone.
    Climate Control Solutions for your Home or Office

    Serving Northeast Philadelphia and Surrounding Areas

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    9
    I am out in Rosharon, TX. If anyone has a recommendation, at this point in time, I am all ears... thanks

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Chicago IL
    Posts
    167
    can you post pictures?

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