water in a/c overflow pan
I know this topic had been covered before, but I was not able to resolve my problem. Please help. I have an a/c technician came out and look at the overflow of water out to the outside of my house. He tried to blow freon into some kind of tube in the attic next to the inside a/c unit. He said he put some liquid that is stronger than bleach in but did not help. He said I will have to get a plumber out to check other clog. About 6 months before this, I have another a/c technician came out because of the same issue. This guy actually went inside the inside a/c unit and drop some pills inside. He said this will desolve the algae. And sure enough the water stop overflow through the tube outside of my house, but for what seems to be a very short period of time. While he was out, I have asked him how long before I need to get the pills put inside the a/c again. He said service the a/c once a year, that should take care of it.
Can someone please tell me what I should do? How can I prevent this happen every 6 months? What causes this and what can I do??? Please help.
At the risk of repeating earlier replies...have you checked that the condenser cab is angled toward the outflow drainpipe. I say this as someone who watched a qualified and trusted rep use a level to check our enclosure - it was always found to be level but level resulted in the water actually draining to the back of the unit and then to the overflow tray. This installation mistake was reviewed at least three times before I called another company who found the problem within minutes of arrival.
What all did the tech check?Did he check your evap coil?Did he check your charge?How old is your system?When the fan cycles off does the water come pouring out?Add a little more info and I am sure someone might be able to help.
If I accidentally post this again.. sorry... I thought I replied but I was logged off and therefore, I am not quite sure if this is a repeat or not.
Marlet - please explain what the condenser cab is - is that the same as the overflow pan? And the overflow drainpipe - that is the white pvc pipe that goes from the overflow pan to the outside of the house, right? I have not checked that at all. Could you please help me to understand what the condeser cab is so I can check? Sorry, I am sooo clueless about a/c and the tech terms of the parts.
RDP - because I was complaining the house was not cooling down and the a/c was constantly running without stopping. He checked the freon and said that there was only 3 lbs of freon left. He said that I might have a small leak, and he filled up the freon (added 12 lbs). He did say he will come back out in Sept to see how the freon was holding and if it is not holding then he will look for the leak or I can get someone else to find the leak. He had some sort of meters (one blue which showed 80 and one red which has 210 - where should have been 230). He said if the house did not cool down as it should, we might have to look at the compressor, but since the house finally cool down over night, the compressor was ruled out. He went into the attic and cut the pvc pipe and blew freon into it to try to clear the clog. He said something about a wire was disconnected and that's why the a/c did not know to bring cool air inside. The house cooled for 1 day and the temp started to climb again. He came back out this time he looked at the outside unit right at the same place where he connected the freon and said the dryer/filter (?) was bad (it looks like a smaller version of an oil filter with a rod attached to each end). So he replaced that and added another 12lbs (which he charged me again). It seems to be working now other than the dripping of water through the pipe to the side of my house.
My house is only 4 1/2 years old, so I would have to say the a/c is about the same age. The water drips constantly while the a/c running as well as when the a/c is idle. About the charge is that the red and blue meter - if that is it yes, one said 80 and the other said 210 (he said something about this should have been 230 and he could not bring it up to 230; therefore, he thought the problem was the compressor)
I have to apologize because I really do not know the technical terms. I know he explained to me with the tech terms, but I could not remember and I did not think that I would be in this dilemma
I might be wrong but it sounds like he is blowing smoke........
I will keep my comments short because I was not there.He should have charged by super heat or sub cool.Also remember if you have to add freon you have a leak.He could have some how missed the filter dyer the first time and over charged the unit but like I said I wasn't there.
By the way it sounds like it froze up.
RDP - are you talking about the coil is froze up? is that the tube going from the outside unit into the house? Can you explain or can you direct me to where I can go and check? Thank you so much for your suggestions. I think we kinda figured out that we will not be using him when he did not check for the leak and we have to pay for the freon 2x... Everything is a lesson learn... thank you.
disclosure - I am a homeowner and not a tech -
Here is my understanding....
Condenser cab (aka cabinet) - this is the box (or one of them) that sits above the emergency water tray - it is where the condenser coil is located and is the first just before the air handler (or furnace as you should have either an air handler or a furnace in your setup). If this is not clear ask the tech on the next visit to take a marker and write the component names and direction of airflow on the outside of the units.
The condenser coil drips water which then (if I am not mistaken) follows the flow of gravity to find a path to your drainpipe. There may be other designs but this is how I understand a conventional setup. So - find the condenser and with a level, check that the front of the cabinet has a small tilt in the direction of the PVC drainpipe. If water drains another direction it will hit the emergency drain pan - which should only be used in the event of the drainpipe itself clogging. In my own case (just this week) I found that the cabinet was perfectly level when it should have been tilted toward the outflow pipe.
Now with regard to the drainpipe, this is actually easier than it appears to test and has also probably been covered countless times on this site better than what I will write - so use the search option after you read what I have to offer and get other advice from the pros. The drainpipe is either clogged or not - it's just a pipe. If you disconnect it at both ends and blow air or pour water - it should come out at the other end. Unless you have the ability to disconnect and reconnect pvc (or whatever is being used) I'd leave this for the tech. The main issue here is that you are the one that needs to be satisfied that the pipe is clear and not the problem. These pipes generally require a routine maintenance procedure by any homeowner to keep clean - a monthly cap (note not cup just the cap) of clorex is the same as the tabs the tech dropped in.
So - my apologies for repeating any info posted by others.